toxo

Here you go! This was my very first leather project. A few mistakes but it would take wild horses to get it out of her hands. If anyones interested in the pattern it's here. you can buy on it's own or even cheaper for the set of three. https://www.leather-patterns.com/product/leather-bag-pattern-pattern-set-leather-diy-pdf-download-leather-bag-video-tutorial/161?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=2

I remember those Sea Monkeys also but I've never seen anyone attempt to explain how eggs laid forty years ago can burst into life when immersed in salt water??? Anyway, I was looking in the tank today and was amazed at how many fry there are in there. The size range is enormous, some are around 15/16mm and some are a tiny 4mm with others in between. I've been puzzling over what to feed them. I've tried a pinch of ground up biscuit. I bought some pond flake today and tried a pinch of that after grinding it up. I've got some lactol powder I might try. it's very fine and meant for new born puppy milk and it's full of protein. The problem is except for the bigger ones you can't make out if they're eating or not. Gonna have to rig up a foam filter. Don't want to poison the water. B/S eggs still merrily bubbling away.

Most of the hand stitched patterns I've used so far have been from Dieselpunk.ro (Tony See). He uses a 1.5mm hole punch together with a 1mm or a 1.2mm thread. I think this combo gives enough movement for what you need. All of his patterns are cut out and punched on the flat. Here's an example. The bottom panel is damped down and fold over.

Great job! I like that "D" ring. Haven't seen those before except on webbing. I know how long it took because I made a similar one for my daughter. I got paranoid about the scrotes on mopeds cutting through the strap so I incorporated a 2mm stainless cable inside the strap.

I'm about to test Axelrods assertion that some brine shrimp eggs that he'd had for forty years hatched out. Still blows my mind actually. Anyway, my small pond in the garden was covered in eggs and me loving a project stuck a handful of weed in an empty tank indoors to see what (if anything) hatched out. I say if anything because I all the eggs I could see were cloudy and my experience tells me that unfertilised eggs go cloudy whilst the good ones remained clear. I'd almost given up looking and didn't even bother checking for a few days.Three days ago I was amazed to find about fifteen tiny babies swimming around. Their yolk sacs were gone and there wasn't much in there to feed on. The best start you can give tiny fry is live food and remembering what Axelrod said I fished out a vial of brine shrimp eggs that's been in a drawer for at least forty years and set up a makeshift hatchery. Not holding out much hope because apart from shit coming alive after forty years, how can that be? My via of eggs had a crack in it where someone has trodden on it. I've ordered some fresh ones but I'm hoping some of these old guys will come good and carry on blowing my mind. A little encouragement will get updates.

it wouldn't take much effort to make three round bottomed holes in a piece of 2x2 and glue different grades of sand/emery paper in the bottom.

I think you're over thinking it. No need to wet mould. Surely, Start off with s flat piece followed by a shaped welt to allow the shears to sit on it in the upside down position which will negate the handles sticking out too much. Followed by the top layer. Add a snap strap somewhere and a belt follower on the back. For me the belt follower would have the shears in the slanted position so they weren't digging in my legs.

Welcome Tom. I'm from the opposite end in Kent. You don't look as old as me and I've only been in it for a couple of years so have at it my friend.

Very very nice! As Matt said how about those rivets? I too have only used copper. Everything about that marlin spike appeals to me in a very strange way. Well done.

This. Every time. Starting by marking the stitches before punching will show in the middle how much error you're dealing with.

This is the stuff I use Fred. Not superglue. It needs damp to work and it foams and gets into every crevice. You would'nt use it for big jobs but this is the size I have and I've had it a long time. Edit; Forgot to say it's not contact. Needs holding in place until it sets. I put some books on a project to hold it overnight but had inadvertantly moved the piece while doing so. Ask me how I know how strong it is. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-1044202-Glue-60ml/dp/B001W030CW/ref=asc_df_B001W030CW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=207961523712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8485715406187694190&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045025&hvtargid=pla-421292502629&psc=1

+1 for thye Gorilla glue. The leather will tear long before the GG gives up. If that Tool Center stuff is Everbuild I was getting really ticked off with it until I bought a bottle of Toluene. Can have it as runny as I like now.

I once knew a company that shredded tyres (not powdered) and they had sackfuls of every colour including multi speckled. They used it (mixed with resin) to float a warm, non slip flooring around swimming pools etc. If you can find it, will probably be cheaper that powdered.

A drill bit the same diameter as the rivet shank will have them falling apart in seconds. Don't press too hard else they'll turn.

I'm guessing it wouldn't be hard to t run some pulleys and pillow blocks to make a burnisher or a sander etc.

Nicely done on all pieces. Good attention to detail.

Nowhere near perfect but considering it didn't have any seat at all it should be happy. And I learned loads.

OK! Not the only answer I'm sure but after some trials this is where I am. In this first picture we see two layers of vinyl with 6mm of foam in between. In this next picture we can see how it's bunched up. It was so bunched up that I was forced to sew the final stitch from the bottom instead of the top. This next picture doesn't look too bad but the last picture shows how much the edge is force over so the pipng can't sit on the corner like it's supposed to. Conclusion: the foam and the bottom underpanel, must be cut back to the edge of the piping. I'll post some pics when I do it for real to see if I've learned anything.

Two questions. First, I'm making a seat for my Quad and I want to quilt the top panel (Bear in mind I'm a relative newbie)and add piping. Do I stop the foam before the seam allowance or extend it to cover everything? Is it usual to foam (non quilting) the sides as well in which case the same applies as in where to stop the foam? Next, Is it usual to use the same size piping/welting foot for the whole process bearing in mind you're adding at least two more layers as well as the piping?

I've only tried my 1 ton Arbor press with 2.4mm. Ok I had to walk it around but it was fine. If/when I have a design that flies I'll take my home made dies to my leather supplier and hire their big press for peanuts.

I'm by no means a veteran in this business but my practical head says - The strongest part of the leather is usually the top coat. A stitching groove takes that away. Maybe the repairs you're doing wouldn't have needed doing if a stitch groove hadn't been used. - Then again you could argue that the thread would have been exposed to abrasion over that time. To me this is a moot point as there are plenty of machines that will pull a thread below the surface without actually cutting through the top layer. If hand stitching I daresay the same could be achieved if pulled hrd enough. And yet again, are we talking best practice or are we looking from a purely utilitarian viewpoint? How long do we want it to last with consideration for the job it has to do? As with many leather processes I think it's just down to personal preference and the way we like to work.

Very nice. I like the subtle colour difference. Has that lighter grey come from the punching?

Even among the modern trend for the distressed look this is outstanding work. Well done indeed.

Excellent job. You've more patience than I. If I had to be picky I'd bevel the shoulder straps for comfort.

Good job. The turquoise is my favourite of all the Discus. One day I'll sell all the tools and the fishing gear and the shooting gear and the leather gear and just breed a big tankful of turqoise Discus. They're not easy to breed compared to most and the ritual is well worth watching.