blue duck

My, oh my. That is some nice work. Hope it works as good as it looks!

We could probably help you out, if you haven't found someone. Drop us a message here or at blueduckcreations@ymail.com We would love to hear from you.

Very nice indeed! Got any interior pics?

Where in Texas are you located? And you said you paid $1500, but is that what you are asking?

Very nice offer! Thanks for doing this for someone.

Welcome Mike! The folks on here are very generous with their knowledge. If you haven't already check out the sewing machine section. There is so much information in there. Many years worth. As for the leatherworking, you may, indeed, find yourself looking for a new family of tools. Leatherworking would fit right in your wheelhouse I bet. If you have any, show us some pics of the sheaths.

If you have trouble sourcing these closer to home or from OTB, give a holler. It would be a round about way, but I would be middleman for you, if it would help.

I know this is in the US, but Ohio Travel Bag has them. 3/4" Shiny Gold, Handle Loop, Zinc Alloy, #P-3159-GOLD (ohiotravelbag.com)

You mentioned sewing your project with a machine. Do you have an actual leather sewing machine or an industrial walking foot sewing machine? If you are using a household machine, the type of leather you want for this project and that machine are not compatible. You will, at the least, break a needle and mess your timing up or even destroy the machine. You may need to consider hand sewing. There is a wealth of information on sewing machines on this site. It is a whole other can of worms.

You have some excellent advice here, so I will not repeat it. I will only add that as you are using a fork, that might be part of the problem with alignment. The curve in a fork makes it a bugger to get a repeatable angle. Using a fork would only be good for showing you spacing. Then using an awl you make your hole. This takes practice to get the hole perpendicular and straight. A line on the opposite (same as the front) side can help show you where to come out. One trick would be to hammer your fork flat, this makes it easier to see the angle you are holding it at. You can also sharpen the tines to help give you a more defined mark. If you could post some pictures, it would help us point you in the right direction. Cheers.

Think I might have a look at Nigel Armitage (a.k.a. @dangerous beans here).

Sending you a vote and good luck. Some unsolicited advice....if you can edit your submission, new should be knew.

Very nice! That was a bit of work.

That beats a chunk of steel that seems to leave marks. What did you use for filler? Love the worn flag look.

you might give weaver leather a look.

Thanks ! I love it. Have any more old tricks by chance?

Ohio travel bag is also a good source. I believe you can get a catalog from them. buckleguy also has a new catalog out, haven't seen it though. just going through one you will learn lots. I do wish however , that they would show finished projects with some items.

Hi Heather. Please check your email. email came back as undeliverable. could you please give the first part again? (before @) Or you can message me here.

this is most excellent. really like the stand option.

Thank you so much Mr. Wiz! Think I need to stick with the two machines even if it takes a while. If I start messing around trying to do as your blog says, I will most likely have a very expensive boat anchor.

Thought I had a machine picked out for now and then a heavier one for down the road. Now I see this 5100. Says light to heavy leather and 69 to 415 thread. So I am wondering if any of you have practical knowledge of this machine? Kind of seems to good to be true? Thanks y'all.

Very impressive. Proof that practice does make perfect.

Not sure what you have now, but look at Ohio travel bag. https://ohiotravelbag.com/collections/snaps/products/10129-blkox?variant=30383133786196

Those fall into the 'cool beans' category!