Double Daddy

Flap-ergasting! Fine craftsmanship, Rohn! The dyeing and stamp work are especially top notch!

Fine belt, Ryan! Super stout construction...full-length 'stand-out' built right in...there's not a tape measure on the market, to my knowledge, that has that feature!

Very interesting design...I like it! I have some new leather that just arrived that simply begs to be tried with that...might just give it a go...hmmm?!? Thanks for sharing!

Very fine work...I especially like the border stamp detail! If its any consolation at all, Saddle Tan dye is a bane to more than just yourself...I personally dread it sometimes...that color can be persnickety to get the shade I'm after (not too light nor too dark after oiling/finishing). People can say "don't stress so much"...but the fact is NO ONE is as much a stickler for the final product or constant improvement as the one sitting at the bench...we can be our own harshest critic.

Wicked sharp workmanship, sir! I especially like those wallets...great designs, color/material choice and execution.

I've always had a want/need to work with my hands, a'building stuff...remodeling, tile/masonry, woodworking, a little welding, etc...thought I'd try my hand at leatherworking. I've been doing it for about four years now...I mostly make field and concealed carry leather for the local-yocals as well as a few accessories (belts, portfolios, valets, etc)...looking to expand into bags and other items in the near future. Very satisfying side-work. Here's my first two pieces...a couple knife sheaths: a brown slip sheath from a Tandy hide and a black one from some scrap veg-tan leather that someone gave me (an old tool belt, if memory serves)...I stamped it to cover up all the scratches. Lot's of practice and toss-outs along the way...finally earned enough to get a CB3200...things got a little easier after that learning curve. I will say that finding LW.net forums proved to be perhaps the biggest help to my knowledge base...lots of folks on here that are very free-giving with their time and knowledge...a rarity in our day and age.

Heirloom, museum quality craftsmanship piece! A tip of the hat to Denny for sharing his process...I followed along on FB as it developed...most intriguing!

Interesting and practically designed piece. Did you go back and add the two rivets at the top...or is it two different examples in the pictures (differing thread colors)? The lighting sometimes makes it hard to tell. Anyways, I like the idea very much...I might steal it

Wow! That is down-right distracting to church worship...you could set folks to covetin' once they see that! Very fine craftsmanship, indeed...I especially like the fade out from the basketweave to the oak leaf cluster and the woodgrain details on the spine cross. Awe inspiring...

Beautimous! Really nice work...

What Halitech said... After dyeing, etc,...I apply NFO (not the compound) to the outside (grain side, not flesh side) of holsters, etc after they come out of the wet molding process & drying cabinet...then edge touch up, etc...and clear finish.

It's worth trying...doesn't block dyes like gum trag (or at least I haven't found that to be the case)...and when I use it along with my sanding drums I get pretty good results. I recommend searching for HidePounder's tutorial (if you haven't looked it up already) elsewhere in the forums herein for expert edge advice...it's a good thread!

"Wash" is simply my term for rubbing down the dyed leather pieces/items with saddle soap. I use paste and paper towels or enough water to work up a decent lather...after the dye has dried and been buffed well, I'll "wash" them with the paste saddle soap, being careful not to use too much water...then I'll buff it out with a towel. With a little practice, you get some interesting, darker lustered results. Saddle soap is also my go-to "salve" applicant for edge treatment/burnishing. I have a bottle of gum tragacanth that I sometimes use but saddle soap stays on the bench for most things. Heck, I've even been know to use spit if I'm in a bind and need to burnish just a tintsy little spot in a hurry at the bench...leather's a little bit forgiving that way.

Fine craftsmanship, Frank! I checked out your website...more top-shelf, heirloom examples to be found there as well. Inspiring, sir...thanks for sharing!

Nice pack, Aza404...great video to watch as well. Great stitch work... While I have an air brush system that I bought to spray larger pieces of leather, I have yet to set it up and try it. I usually use large pieces of wool when dyeing bigger pieces (and even in most cases the smaller ones!)...I find that it give me fewer streaks than using daubers, at least the way that I apply it anyway...YMMV I will occasionally do a saddle soap "wash" after dyeing...it deepens the color somewhat and evens things out a bit as well as gives it a bit of a shine too if you buff it with a cloth. I especially like to do this on thinner stock that I'm gonna cut wallet or journal pieces from...easier at this stage than later on. I even do this on holsters before my NFO application. There is a Fiebings dye thinner but its ridiculously expensive compared to denatured alcohol which works just as well for any reducing...it's what I use for the bolder colors (reds, blues, greens, etc) Resolene is my go-to acrylic finish...at the moment...but that's only because I have so much of it in stock. Quite a few of the more seasoned pro's over in the Holster & Sheath sub-forum have touted equal praises for Mop n' Glo...yep, the same stuff our mothers put on the kitchen floor...they are both acrylic coatings...turns out, many holster makers have been using the stuff for years as a clear finish (not the lemon scented stuff...unless you just want to)...it's the same as Resolene, just no where near as expensive and available nearly everywhere. Mix it 50/50 with water and brush on or airbrush.

Well...isn't that a slick little thing...just grab and go. Very compact in the pocket...nice design (rounded corners with nothing to snag) and should patina well over time.

Yes, Mr. Batson...if'n you ever get a chance, please feel free to show us how you pull that off...I'd be interested to see that as well. Nice hat, btw...I really like that SB Foot leather.

Thanks, Bob for the quick response! Yeah...not so sure that 5/6oz material hat would look too good with #277-ish yarn around the rim! I believe I'll just wait till the mason jar is full enough to add the 1206 to the shop. I'm debating between it or another lighter-duty cylinder arm model...either way, I'll be calling you since my CB3200 came from your warehouse. Thanks for the insight!

Hello, all! I'm looking at (maybe) adding a bush-style hat to my products...oil-tanned leather...but I'm at a loss as to what type of foot is needed to install the wire in the hemmed edge around the hat brim in this photo (found online). My machine is a CB3200. If this is beyond the reasonable capacity of that, fine...I'm looking to add a lighter duty model (e.g. Consew P1206RB, etc) to the fleet later this year anyway...just trying to decide now if it's worth the effort/$$ to purchase the extra tooling or simply wait on the other machine before adding this new item. Help/suggestions most appreciated!

Plus...I'm kinda curious to see how a lemon-scented Lady-Smith or Ruger LCP holster turns out

I don't do a LOT of decorative stamping...couldn't find a decent granite piece in my area for cheap...went to HD and got a 12x12 tile, a concrete landscape tile of like size and a tube of heavy duty construction adhesive...100% coverage with proper allowance for "slack time" before sticking them together permanently...been 5-plus years and it's held up well as a flat work surface (rivet/snap setting, belt ends cut off, decorative stamping, etc)...I have no plans to replace it with anything more pricy. I keep all of the boxes my leather, etc arrives in...works great for workbench liners for dyeing longer pieces or if I have something laying on the bench already and need to dye something else, I just grab a piece of box and put it in my lap...instant/temporary dyeing surface that can be set aside on one of my shelves with the work still on it. I even label the pieces by dye color (black, dark brown, saddle tan, etc) to get multiple uses out of them...I've been known to do the same thing with paper plates, latex gloves, daubers...stretch those supplies, son! When I run out of Resolene, I'm gonna try the Mop n Glow, per several professional recommendations on here...their results speak for themselves...it's WAY cheaper than the Res and available locally.

I looked at your other post/pics...very nice work! If you don't mind me asking...what type of machine do you use? I'm using a CB3200 presently but am looking at adding a lighter duty machine for smaller items (e.g. Consew P1026, etc). Just wondering since some the boot leather on your work seems delicate and a 441 style machine seems like it would "track" pretty heavy, despite all effort to reduce top tension.

Neat concept. I like how you worked the pattern layout to include the decorative piece from the top of the boot (??) into the lower muzzle area of the holster. Interesting prototype...will be following to see how this washing out.

Exquisite, heirloom work, Josh...in every aspect.

Good information, folks...thanks! I will give a look around locally for the Aussie or Sno Seal. I also have a few repeat customers that are adamant about not having any sort of acrylic coating on their field gear...just an oil finish. Got one old hillbilly, in particular...only wants pure neetsfoot on his field holsters...thus, they get a dose of that after going thru the molding, drying cabinet, etc. Normally, I use a saddle soap/NFO combo for a rub-down...it enriches the dried out leather, darkens and blends the color a bit while making it a little richer in depth. Afterward, I'll buff it slightly on a cotton wheel to take away any dullness or soap boogers I might have missed.