brmax

Might be able to see something else with a new photo with tension area and guides possibly. By the way what size thread and such. I am a bit more curious with the thread path top side. The take up spring should set against the stop unless in a bind, though it looks clean on the front side, it may require a re adjustment. good luck there Floyd

Yes, it looks all jacked up even before the guide at the needle bar, Comparing to the bobbin thread also in photo. Floyd

I'm not sure, but maybe reference in google as an eyelet. just an idea good day

Excellent! ? curious what is the signal voltage 5? to the treadle switch Seems it has to be different and reduced for the electronics Floyd

+1 on the links, I like Juki's method of measuring the bobbin. I thought I was abstract in a similar method, not so much now (snap finger) darn it Being interested in all the in's and outs or why,s to my understanding the machine, other than me hittin the go pedal. Here's what I tried in my first machine and subsequent 1541 and one can use it handily with other machines. Though tensions change it was a good mark or judge point for myself on a consistent material; I sewed a very small bag "almost closed" cut the top thread leaving bobbin thread attached and insert weight or weights in sewn bag, let it position over the operator side edge and adjust weight to slowly drop down. I measured this in different ways and was 27grams, or 417grain for my particular job and machine, remembering what someone mentioned it can change with material n threads. So for this I adjusted a couple and put in a Ziploc, and can be a handy idea. With that mention behind, I have been curious of the winding effect on thread at the needle as re positioning materials, and at points thought this is tougher than normal. It may be possible to be losing a stitch. In some ways if we look at videos of thread at certain points through the sew cycle when the needle returns to go up its in free state or thread is sliding through eyelet. As mentioned this can be a top drawer adjustment with needle selection for a specific action when known, no doubt worth further discussion. So in short a small eyelet could have enough tension in thread to pull up some and or in a repositioning remove the normal amounted loop of thread usually waiting on the hook. That was deep, so coming up for air! out for coffee Floyd

It is a nice looking machine. I need to re read the post a bit more and respectfully without crackin up, so one thing at a time. But no doubt 1 peg leg is enough for the cat, and that pulley has to do its thing so if you decide another motor is the ticket. Well it may be just what someone is looking for to be original or whatever. Most servo motors ordered come with a switch on the front and some may have another box for the switch and mountable a bit closer. Floyd

Ya that Mitsubishi does look like a singer on top, and I didn't realize the Nakajima here wasn't a walking foot, good eye! good day Floyd

I think the hook and bobbin cap are spitn image of the 1341, I believe that design looks to come from Pfaff 345-7. as far as duty related I have to resort to others with more use, I can say it is great for lighter stuff I do with no reducer. I can say that it has the typical top loader "need to hold thread" as that catches me a bit on mine. Its seems awhile back a couple times this style and brand was brought up, all I have used is 92 thread so far in a typical machine. Also if you need small circles another option may be best, this model looks like 5"dia.arm, and same as 341, 1341 with the standard arm. Some newer models have been arriving on the continent lately, so any interest could be found in short order. If bigger capacities in thread are available then an understanding of the design, only because the present design has been proven under 138 thread generally. imo I'm curious to hear about some serious use also and for sure knowledge of any factory recollection with say 6oz or better in consistent work. The gear train is my curious question, being a pinion type setup and all that. good day Floyd

If I were not using a reduction setup, a small pulley is required in my opinion. Also a cogged belt may be beneficial in the smallest of pulleys. I have seen on the net pulley calculation size programs and their rpms, may try to google and put your measures in! Floyd

Have ya located a manual, I'm sure we can locate one here on site. Sure put the clean on it, now just surgically oiling it with plenty oil. Watch out! it may just keep turning with no need for a motor now, just spin on the wheel. Good work there Floyd

Its hard to not see an alignment problem, I suggest a return on card ( . ) and not upon their inspection, with rma in your email today . Sending them the photos its also a great help to the company and a motivator. This particular tool is all about alignment of dies at its first basic design, in that it is suppose to be in perfect alignment. Clear to me no understanding of the tool they propose to sell 2 of. Please keep us informed on the credit results, and related. And please post any of the photos with dies purchased, interested. Sorry for the hassle and crap second shipment of a press. Its clearly a box mover sales outfit not a pro as a second shipment would be unboxed and inspected by a "qualified person" if available and clearly not. try to have a better day Floyd

I remember seeing that black 4500, that was pretty neat!. I can do black but would rather stick with chrome, I mean if I get a choice. It may be gone as it has been awhile since that the deal was started and may have been as ya said just a small count done up. Rock on with the pin stripes though. anyway That 341 Cowboy hook looks the same as my Juki1341, if it is? I believe the cap/bobbin case doesn't have a thread slot/path big enough for 207 thread so will have to ask the dealers if any mods need or were made. I would sure welcome that info, as I guess that hook style has been around awhile, and so a lot of experience there, and I could use a extra cap. As Wiz mentioned and spot on as usual all the 15 series Juki's I know of will raise to about1/2 with 135-17 but will hit, as the needle bar wants to go down a bit more on a stroke when raised that high. The Juki 1341, I picked up is the same head as the 15 series really and fits the same bill. I understand many feelings of the long 190, and struggled with the thought of change and its issues with finding available leather needles when getting along farther that direction. And so with some other stuff I do and plans for the foam, batting etc. etc. I have 190 in 3 heads with about a 1/16 maybe a hair more clearance at the needle bar now to the foot when toped out and no issues. As for now I haven't worried here with changing the 1341 yet?, but I sure don't like hearing any bump, so I don't go there. I'm not positive but I did think the previous Juki 341 came with another style hook and thought may be an advantage. I would have to work a bit more to study the archives and figure that conclusion for my final op. I did consider it would be great if it could be the same as a 1508, fwiw. Anyway that was my thoughts before this purchase option came up and the choice was over. The particular hooks had me wondering with some other brands other members had interest in and talked about here. A key point I liked no-matter was the topside adjustment knobs on machines in this category. So as always these machine things keeps me interested in whatever comes out and whatever color they paint them, its a machine and that's cool. All I know is I cant do without one of these cylinder arms for stuff I do, many flat projects I just get up and go to the cylinder then return. Its fact I just feel this place has been there with all the answers Consistently. Thanks n thumbs up No doubt they all need reducers and the model ask about is great for the millions of dollars already proven in its designed ability. Good day Floyd

I'm still starting the Cobra thing, so will listen more hopefully : ) Though after I went and did some learning here n there I finally replaced my spool of thread at the end. But prior I found the needle to have a bur at its end, this I think was there when I picked it up used. At first I smoothed it up with fine sand paper( yes I had a pac of new ) put word in blank______. Anyway me moving the leather around was different than a flatbed no doubt and easy to have the needle hit something jackin it around, but finally got a better touch on it. I found from listening and or reading the prior postings that thread paths are picky but are getting easier to understand. My knowledge from the past is something, yet with the 441 seems like I'm reaching in an empty minnow bucket. I finally figured some things out and with my new thread to boot I moved on, and the next day when I was ready to rock n roll I had an issue, almost sounds the same; anyway my new thread is great proved that the night before. But some how me doing something the thread above the spool had slack at the nights close or early morn this slack fell and over the spool base, yep and so you know it was aliens yep, anyway it tightened under around the base. I started and like a fiddle string was tight for a few stitches and I watched this in like slow motion TING shreaded and broke the 277. The 1 inch of stitch made was banjo string top tite. Lucky I looked that way and seen it still under that spool base Wow, luck dog! that's a lot for listening eh Floyd

I thank you Sir, at this time the cobra is spot on with this particular adjustment. Something I was curious in other pages and not finding the page in my manual was a needle bar adjustment/topside. I did remedy that with a call to the shop out there but afterwards thought a few more instructions as this in the manual would be better. I guess sometimes in the long run holding back certain tips or adjustments can save grief as a company. I am going to keep an eye open for a juki printing or possibly one of the others Floyd

Whats your plan with reducer brands or builds, any over there particularly of interest. I think with just that your going to be amazed. fwiw I still use as a main machine a clutch motor, but it has the mitsibishi setup for positioning and will run circles around any positioner "here" but I don't have any efka stuff, I tend to have the music louder and talk louder working around that machine, but always happy good day Floyd

From the reading of post several years on some 2 weeks would be a base time to start the count. That's just my reading, and honestly it stuck in my mind plan way ahead with them, again honestly just my plan. They do seem to have a great product from the reads fwiw Floyd

Some information, for later do you recall size nomenclature when purchased, like 20 or 24 series possibly. Anyway I'm familiar with just a few marine type, these caps or cool part we see most times have a stud made onto them going through the leather or material. If its a cap it should have a concave tool it sets in on the bench. This other side of leather with post visible we put the "socket", it has the circle springy wire. The post needs to be above the bottom a bit. So here using the punch with (mtn in volcano) you should center it over the stud and force the rolling over of the stud end with mallet apps. Some of these post without caps or buttons are sometimes just called studs. When some styles or materials are needed we can switch a few different caps or post and others really, so anyway have fun. Floyd bottom of this page I use shows a few snap names, and what I try to stick with as a smallbiz http://www.dotfasteners.com/

That's funny! I don't care what anybody says. I would be interested in that whole nuther page someday, I recall someone else also mentioning this great information possibly from an original Juki manual they picked up. whata find good day Floyd

I totally see the point with the single outside presser foot, this particular use also noticed and still a fix concern I have on my Cobra 441 style. I know this style foot was made for a specific use and my general other use is best served with two feet and so I need to get another, the inside foot. I have seen a few with interest, and am going to look at further. good day Floyd

Super nice machines, congrats Most times they are sold as sets, the generic ones anyway. I'm not sure on a part number but the bottom surface you may need to have smooth, and a so bit harder to find. Good point, use of say one other foott part interchangeably, well the stickler is first they may be wider and not fit, that's the nice spoken easy part. The issue I found is the mounted heights, and in a perfect world this is an adjustment in your manual and should be the same for best results. ( I mean from on set to another ) I think you will find not one of the generics you purchase are the same height and could use some tuning and the factory brand ones to be closer in their build. Its something to study for sure, and I will be interested in your find, on smooth set. Generally adjusted to be the same and maybe a hair high on center as different in brands adjustment. There are some on here that may mention some tips for you this week, as I have seen some great work regards to these watch bands. Many times people have modified an existing regular set into zipper feet, again the need smooth or is it ok? Having the ability to change feet without adjustment to be correct is a blessing, and I promise not an easy task to make happen so something to strive for, and its only closer and better with factory or custom parts. good day Floyd

Good build there, solid. Looks ready for scissors, seam ripper, drawer if you can find one. That's a great idea on the lights, Since I picked up a small led it comes on with the machine and the big light has its own switch. I was able to mount one of them galvanized electric handy box below for junction and then 1 wire out to the wall plug, took awhile. again great job Floyd

MG513, on my machine the bar is L shaped and was able to be removed and put in from opposite side, and then re-adjusting the knee bumper worked . good day Floyd

no you cannot use a standard motor, Sorry. Some of the new hype with the servo motor is its easily made to start and stop at will "with" your control of choice (foot) in our case. Them other motors have to have an additional setup for "starting" for other machinery. On our sew machines there is a bit older design ya heard of as clutch style, and just as a car, the motors running all the time you just have to use the clutch for starting and or gear engagement. A part of your question is yes motors can be wired to plug in some where, but are required to have a means of power switching to off. So on your present setup, most motors have the wires going to the switch box area at a certain reachable position, in this box there is generally international wire color codes used for power and ground. Floyd

I would remove the belt for now, its just a bother in the situation. Is there a photo from the bottom, or better yet, machine tilted back this may give a better perspective. If needed after that look-see, the inner hook/ carrier may need to be prepared for better inspection and cleaning. Some thread may have lodged in the grooves of it as it rides in the hook. Floyd

I have some of the juki oil, and purchased it. I have heard seems like a million people say just use Lilly white, but to steer correct it may be a good call to one of the pro shop guys here in participating helping answer and selling machines. good luck Floyd