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garypl

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Everything posted by garypl

  1. garypl
    When sewing bags like this I have cut small "v" slots on the curved portion to eliminate the bunching up. Works especially well for a bag with a lining.
  2. garypl
    Thinning the Resolene allows you to apply very thin coats, increasing the likelihood that you will have a durable finish. You could apply it 100%, but there is a greater chance you will create thicker coats that are more likely to crack. From what I have read, just about everyone thins the Resolene and I have always had good results thinning it. Go ahead and experiment - that's half the fun of leatherworking!
  3. garypl
    I thin Resolene 50/50 with water. I airbrush several coats, but you can also apply thin coats with a brush or damp sponge.
  4. garypl
    Sounds like the surfaces are not holding the glue due to some type of finish or film on the surfaces. Suggest you roughen the surfaces with some fine sandpaper to give the glue something to grip. Do it on a test piece and see if it helps!
  5. garypl
    Let us know how it turns out! 3-4 oz welt will probably work well...
  6. garypl
    Sounds like you are trying to sew at the lower limit of the class 4 machine. You might want to try using a welt made of veg tan around the edges - this would add stiffness and should stop the curling if you want to keep using thicker thread. Otherwise I would just sew on your lighter machine with smaller thread.
  7. garypl
    I bought from Egyptian several times and his prices do include shipping, so I believe he offers the best overall pricing on Ritza thread.
  8. garypl
    I use Weldwood in the red can - seems to work ok to hold things together before sewing
  9. garypl
    I think I see it now! If you weren't locked into one of the two original notches the knob could move because ithe ball hadn't dropped into a notch. Now that you have more notches you can pretty much ensure you will lock into a notch and be close to the stitch length you need - very clever! Will you post a pic of the felt? Curious to try one. Gary
  10. garypl
    Looks like the darker areas are recessed - my guess is the entire outfit is dyed saddle tan, then he went back and dyed the recesses darker
  11. garypl
    Brian - I don't understand why the extra notches stop the knob from moving. Seems the knob can still move, just not as much before it hits the adjacent notch. What am I missing here? That's quite a stack of pouches you have to work on! Gary
  12. garypl
    I prefer oil dyes - either dip dye the piece or spray the dye on. Dipping gives deeper penetration but spraying can also give you good results and you use less dye.
  13. garypl
    Thanks for sharing this Ferg - good words to live by...
  14. garypl
    Really nice job! Hope you stay high and dry during the storm...
  15. garypl
    You got a sweet deal - the accessories cost me @$400 each when I bought them!
  16. garypl
    I bought a new Shopsmith in 1976 that I still use regularly. 12" disk sander works great for smoothing edges and you can easily vary the speed. I haven't priced them lately, but I paid around $1200 back in 1976!
  17. garypl
    I just experimented with a couple of dyes - didn't really try to match the cigar color - I just liked the sunburst effect! I have a simple setup to spray in my basement - two furnace filters in front of a box fan - a large foil pan in front of the filters to catch overspray and drips when cleaning the airbrush- and a piece of cardboard surrounding the pan to prevent overspray. Simple and works really well!
  18. garypl
    Those are some nice looking replicas!
  19. garypl
    I have. $150 Pasche air brush that I rarely use - for dyeing and shading, spraying Resolene I use a cheap airbrush from Harbor Freight - was $10 with 20% discount and works great! I sprayed this cigar case with it.
  20. garypl
    Nice job with the airbrush!
  21. garypl
    Nice looking holsters. I see many talented leather workers in the U.K. making nice holsters, but isn't it almost impossible to own a handgun in the U.K.? I wouldn't think there would be much of a market for holsters.
  22. garypl
    I guess I was lucky - I had a good experience, but you certainly raise valid concerns!
  23. garypl
    Your hand stitching looks very good. Now I think I will try using padding inside a collar! What kind of padding material did you use?
  24. garypl
    Your comments are very valid and it does happen that designers pull stock images and reuse them. I think you have to check with the service on how they will help you if you find yourself in this situation. By the same token, an individual contractor could do the same thing - grab a copyrighted stock image and use it in their design. I considered both routes and I liked the idea of getting multiple concepts from different designers. At the end of the day, regardless of where you obtain your final design, if you want to protect it you will need to register it for copyright protection.
  25. garypl
    Those are nice looking collars! A couple of questions: 1. Did you machine sew right over the D rings? I have not tried sewing a D ring with a machine. 2. Looks like you folded the pigskin around the padding and then sewed it to the veg tan with the seam inside - is this correct? Looks nice and cushioned. 3. Seems to me that with the D ring positioned opposite the buckle and unpadded part of the collar, when you hook a leash onto the D ring, you lose the benefit of the padding because the buckle will be pulled up against the neck. I have positioned D rings on collars I make near the buckle for this reason. I'm learning and trying to understand the reasons behind some of the designs I see posted. Thanks for posting!
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