billybopp

Well done, as always with your work. It does give entirely new meaning to the phrase "pull my finger", tho. Bill

Thread arrived today. It looks quite nice, the colors are really vibrant, and I can't wait to try it out. Thank you!! Bill

I sometimes use a plane for skiving belts. It works great. Bill

You may want to check out this pinned item here on LWN. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101 It does a great job explaining edge burnishing, using saddle soap. Bill

You might take a look at cuir boulli, or boiled leather if you want really stiff. There are several threads on here, and elsewhere. Bill

Yeah ... Bandaids can get pretty expensive. The closest I've come to cut prevention is: http://www.amazon.com/CUTShield-Classic-Kitchen-Resistant-Contact/dp/B003DZ02MU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1433643477&sr=8-2&keywords=kevlar+glove They do work ... when I remember to wear them. They are a little slicker than I'd like, but they do now make versions with latex palms, or PVC dots. I'll have to try them sometime. Bill

Hmmm.. I never would have thought to use thread! Great tips. Thanks! Bill

Really nice on both pieces. I'm particularly fond of the messenger bag, it's a nice beefy design. I really like the colors of they dye and hardware. Well done! Bill

I like it! I'm assuming the yellow is acrylic paint .. If so, you may want to put on a coat of white first, as a base coat. Yellow is notorious for it's transparency. Bill

There's a good example in Al Stohlman's "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" on how to make a cylinder. Describing it without photos is a bit beyond my ability to type, but it's not all that hard to do. I've made many can kozi's using the technique. Bill

You might check a boating supply shop. Boats, particularly sail boats, have LOTS of things with eyelets in them of all sizes. The shop will likely sell repair kits, although that may not be a cheap place to buy. Bill

If it's fossilized to stone, you might be able to use it for a ladies handbag. They wouldn't notice the weight difference that fossilization makes anyway. Bill

Very nice! Bill

I ended up buying one of these: http://www.amazon.com/American-Educational-7-000-104-Diameter-Capacity/dp/B005QDP42K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1432340820&sr=8-3&keywords=spirit+lamp I was afraid that I'd manage to break or tip over one of the glass ones. I liked the wide base, handle, adjustment screw, and the snuffer that doubles as a reasonably tight fitting lid to help prevent evaporation when not in use. Bill

It kinda looks like a cylinder arm machine and a post bed machine got together in a dark room somewhere and .... Bill

Navy manuals tend to be exceptionally good, easy reads. I expect that's because Marines have to read them too. Ok. Just kidding!! Bill

Here is a photo showing some of the things I was talking about. The left awl is one of the Tandy all-in-one that I bought before I knew any better. Dull as a butter-knife from the packaging, and much too much taper for me. With that much taper in the blade, you have to control the depth carefully, and with thick leather, one side will have a hole considerably larger than the other. It is also fairly long so that it's a little harder to position the tip when your wrist moves around. It does, however have a relatively broad tip that makes it easier to find the correct angle when using pricking irons. To the far right is, If I remember correctly, an Osborne awl. The blade is relatively long and very narrow at the tip. The length can make for larger movement at the tip with every movement of your wrist. The narrow tip till give no real help in finding the center of the slit, nor help with the angle of the awl when using a pricking iron. And yet, over all width of the blade is comparable to the small Seiwa to the left. The middle three are Seiwa awls. They are relatively short blades to help with tip control. The blades are straight sided once past the tip, so the hole is consistent on both sides. The broad tip also helps to align with the marks made by a pricking iron. One would think that the Osborne tip, being so pointy would penetrate more easily, but there turns out to be very little if any difference. Bill

Most tools that you buy, including awls, need at least some sharpening before they are truly usable. Some need more than others. Check out this video by Nigel Armitage for some pointers ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvY9beqObiQ Remember as you sharpen that you will also be shaping the awl's profile to shape it the way you like. I prefer a broader tip than what Nigel shows in the above video. I find the broader tip is helpful in getting the angle just exactly right. Bill

That is some seriously creepy looking stuff. In a very good way!! Well done. Bill

Hey! Look at it this way. You've had an ADVENTURE, not just a trip or an excursion. Anybody can have those. Bill

Very cool. Instantly recognizable as a tribute to Mondrian. I have to agree that the one without bevels is probably closer to style, but the bevels work too. I'd like to do a Picasso belt, but I'm not quite sure how I would get it both over my head and under my legs to fit my waist. Bill

Good to know! Thanks!

Monica gave a good list. I'd add to that ( if you don't already have ) good long metal straightedge and square. Also, a strap cutter is pretty useful for many of the things you've listed to make. Bill

I use a shorter blade as well. It seems a little easier to control to me. For the same movement of the wrist, a longer blade will move a greater distance. I also prefer a broader tip profile for my awl, which I find helpful in getting the angle just right with holes marked from a pricking iron or chisel. Bill

Looks good, and very very cool! Bill