billybopp

That's a big briefcase! Looks really nice, and very well made. It's a great color combination. I always wonder on bags with straps that go all the way around, did you do anything special to protect them from wear when the bag is resting on the straps? And ... Just as something fun to think about ... If you were to do one again, what would you do differently? Bill

Ian Atkinson http://www.youtube.com/user/satansbarber/videos Nigel Armitage http://www.youtube.com/user/Nordicbadger/videos Tandy Leather Factory http://www.youtube.com/user/TandyLeatherFactory/videos .. They are trying to sell you their stuff, but the techniques are mostly sound. Springfield Leather http://www.youtube.com/user/SpringfieldLeatherCo/videos ... Also trying to sell you some of their stuff, but still good info. Bruce Cheaney http://www.youtube.com/user/cheaneysaddles/videos Eugene Pik http://www.youtube.com/user/eugenepik/videos Chief31794 http://www.youtube.com/user/Chief31794/videos I tried to include a variety of styles, and folks with multiple videos in the above. There are also tons of other videos to be found on youtube and vimeo. Just search and you shall find. Do a search on Hermes bag making, or any other high end bag maker and you'll find tons of videos. Have fun! Bill

WOW! That is a great seat for a great bike. They are award winners. Bill

If you need white leather ... buy it pre-dyed white, or plan on painting. White leather dye is just about impossible to use. I found out the hard way. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56722&hl=%2Bwhite+%2Bdye Hope that helps Bill

Oh ... And very well done. It's a nice classy look and beautifully made. Bill

I think the confusion on the hardware may be due to the color balance in the first picture. It's off toward yellow and hence makes the hardware look more like brass than chrome/nickel. Bill

Well done, Chief! Thank you. Bill

Leatherworking is much like any other talent. Some people have such talent that they need little work to achieve greatness. Others achieve greatness, but with much more practice and work. Persistence is key. Most of us fall somewhere in that second group. Keep at it and you'll do well!! Bill

Yup. Wine bottle holder. And I like it!

That could be a problem. After all, nobody likes skunk weed!!

That's a whole lot o' sewing machines in a compact space!! Well done.

Assuming that you have a picture on your computer, click "more reply options". It will bring up an expanded version of the text box and an attach files button at the bottom. That will bring up a dialog box that lets you choose the picture to upload. Alternately, if you find a picture on the boot maker's website, or some other, you can place a link by clicking the link tool in the toolbar above the reply textbox. You just copy the web address and then paste it into the URL box that comes up. "Add reply" then posts your message. Hope that helps! Bill

I think I understand what you mean by feathering ... Something like you'd get with pinking shears? A picture of your boots would help others understand what you're looking for. Bill

That's some kind o' PINK .. It's blinding. LOL. I hope that if you decide to restore it you find some way to duplicate the decal for it. That's just cool!! Bill

I'm jealous!

I have a few strips of ~3/8" x3/8" wood with scrap leather strips and some moderately heavy spring clamps. Bill

If the leather is thin enough ( about the range you're looking at) I don't use an edger. It's just too thin. I damp the edge, burnish, a little saddle soap and burnish some more. You just have to be careful to not put too much pressure when burnishing so that the edge doesn't completely roll down. That's usually enough to make it nice. Hope that helps Bill

A few pictures might be helpful .... And what SPI are the markers? Bill

The smaller the wheel, the slower the contact area with the leather for any given motor speed. Looking at what the folks that are selling these use (Weaver, Tippmann, and ebay, etc) they all look to be about 2" or so. I'd think that's where I'd start. ( I only chose 4" & 8" in the above post to show the numbers ... Just an example). Bill

I have a burnisher with a curved but fine point on the end. You have to burnish from front and back separately rather than both at the same time, but it works. Bill

... I knew there would be a heated tool and a turned edge somewhere in that mass of guesswork.

I use an Olfa circle cutter if the leather isn't over 8ish ounces. If I can't have a pin-prick hole in the center for some reason, I put a piece of scrap leather there to stick the center pivot point needle (or whatever you call it) into. They come in about three or four sizes .. I think I've got the smallest one that maxes out around 3 or 4 inches. Hope that helps Bill

It almost looks better than the original in recent years.

Really REALLY nice work! I've gotta try one of those sometime. Bill

Antiques are generally meant to be used as Monica said: To accentuate the detail and shading in carved and tooled leathers. Usually, you'd finish your tooling, possibly dye, apply a clear finish as a resist or an actual resist product selectively and then put the antique on thickly rubbing it into nooks and crannies and excess wiped off to allow the antique to remain behind in the low spots to dry there. A final finish is applied after all is dry. That being said, the Eco Flo gel probably makes a better leather stain than it does antique. It tends to discolor resist too much for my taste. I also seem to have a hard time sealing the eco flo gel to prevent dye ruboff with wetness / sweat. I've swtched to Fiebings antique pastes for my antiquing, but the gel still has it's place. In the end, it's all about what you like and what works for you! Hope that helps Bill