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mikesc

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Everything posted by mikesc

  1. As you would say on your side of the pond .. Words to live by :).. Nice clamps..nice tool rack..nice philosophy ..
  2. leathersmyth..whatever manuals and parts lists that you have ..ask a moderator ( moderators have green links..just click on their names and send them a message ) about how to upload them to here..
  3. I would add to that ..when you go..ask to speak to Dave ( their machine mechanic )..HTH :)
  4. http://leatherworker.net/forum/profile/10555-arbalet12/ He makes stamps..his work is superb..he makes custom stamps..probably makes maker stamps ( ask him )..he is in Europe..Bulgaria.. email is snleatherbg@gmail.com I have no connection with him, but I do appreciate superb work.. HTH :)
  5. They might well "fail the floor" or the stairs if they were all standing in the same 12" x 12" or 18" x18" spot ( that is what is meant by the "machine's footprint" ) Floors and stairs are rated at "max load per square foot"..I weigh well over 100 kgs and take a shoe size 13 ( or 14, depends on who is making the shoes ) UK, so a 300kgs machine with a small pedestal base ( like is like me standing in one spot with another "me" on my shoulders, "and another "me" on his shoulders"..3 - 100 kgs guys hugging each have their feet on the floor and so the load is spread over at least 3 times the surface area.. Things don't "float" upstairs when you carry them , the weight of what you are carrying is added to your own weight and is concentrated on each of your feet, and you go upstairs one foot at at time..so 300kgs plus the guys carrying it ( I can lift and carry my own weight, do it all the time when cutting logs and splitting them for winter, can't walk upstairs with a 100 kg piece of wood though ) ..300kgs between two 100 kg guys going up stairs..that's them carrying a 150kg each, upstairs..ain't gonna happen..so..needs 4 guys, each taking a quarter of the weight ( 75 kgs )..each guy weighs 100kgs minimum..so total weight 4 guys plus the machine..700 kgs ..on a stairwell..it had better be made out of reinforced concrete..your wooden house stairs would break, and you'd all wind up with a 300kg machine probably on top of you..enough to kill you..or cause some serious injuries.. The original poster didn't say what kind of floor or stairs were involved until after I had given my advice..and I gave him professional advice, based on experience running a transport and removals business ( that is "house moving", "industrial moving,lots of heavy machinery moving and transporting and we were also specialised in moving military families ( both dad ( now deceased ) and I were in the military at one time in the past ) from Europe into the UK and from one end of the UK to the other. We both had to be "certified" so as not to make the kind of dangerous screw ups that I have seen done by people who hire a truck get a few friends around to help, and then they put things that are far to heavy on upper floors or on balconies or porches , result, the floors fail, the balcony or porch starts to sag and fails..or the stairs give way while the "thing" is being carried up them and everyone finds themselves in an untidy injured heap of guys under a cast iron kitchen range and some sharp splintery wood where the stairs used to be. I know one guy who was moving a kitchen range ( weight around 200 or 250 kgs , with 3 other guys up a stairway when it collapsed, he is now a paraplegic wheelchair user*, one of the others still walks with a heavy limp, all were hospitalised at the time )..we were working 3 houses down from them, I had already seen the cast iron kitchen range being unloaded, and had warned them that if the building was the same inside as the one we were doing the "house move" ( 1st floor kitchen ) that they would get hurt..They did, badly, I took no pleasure in being proved correct , nor in helping get the thing off them and the wreckage from around them and giving them emergency first aid until the ambulance guys arrived. * the guy was a pilot, RAF jets, used to play rugby too , as did his mates, he is no longer a pilot, he doesn't play rugby anymore, his mates don't play either, but they were big guys like me, and they thought that it would be no problem to get the thing upstairs "if we can lift it, we can move it"..( they thought I was being to cautious ) there is much more to doing house moving, or industrial moving , safely, than being able to move heavy things. We had another guy who had a big lathe ( well over 1000kg ) in his garage ( solid reinforced concrete floor ) , he thought we could load it "complete", onto a truck ( truck could take 32000 kgs , so "in theory" we could ) and put it into a ground level room "veranda" with concrete floor, at his new house..again in theory, we could, problem was to get to the veranda, ( at the back of the house ) we'd have to go through 3 rooms that had wooden plank floors on "joists"..even with two "pallet lifters" ( around 200 kgs each ) we would have gone through his wooden floors as soon as all the weight got past his front door and onto the floors..so he had to spilt it down into parts that weighed less. What can go wrong, frequently will go wrong, pros try, by thinking things through, to avoid the consequences of that happening, and to, if necessary, not doing something which has a high possibility of being "an accident waiting to happen". In case you think that means I'd never do anything that might be dangerous ;) In the "military" part of both my , and my dad's lives, we both did a great deal of jumping out of perfectly good aircraft when they were very high up ( and sometimes very low down ) and having only our pull on the D rings of our carefully packed chutes to prevent us from making a mess on the ground..sometimes we even jumped out of planes without being paid for it, and left pulling the D rings for as long as possible..no sensation matches free fall :)..except maybe a wingsuit. :)) long post..and not really "on topic", but, if it can prevent someone doing something potentially very dumb..and potentially dangerous. remember, we are not just here talking amongst ourselves, many others are reading , maybe without ever posting, but it might make them think "safety first" before moving something really heavy.
  6. Ask them what are their MOQs..then you'll know..if their MOQs are too high, ask them who are their European resellers..
  7. Buy it from the tannery here in France directly. https://www.tanneries-haas.com/en/Tanneries-Haas-cuir-de-veau-95.html Their contact details are at the bottom of that page.. HTH
  8. Sorry to hear you lost your "maker space"..I hope you get a new workshop or "maker space" facility soon..If I was on your side of the pond I 'd have already bought your adler from you at the original asking price..the latest "no space "price really makes it "a steal" for anyone in the USA.
  9. The one that Rayban has chosen says it is "natural rubber".. ps..I love that zoro website..especially the "about us" :)
  10. First of all, are you sure that your apartment floor can take the weight of the machine concentrated into the area of its "footprint" ? ( unless the floor is made of steel reinforced concrete, it may not be able to support the weight, and you could find it suddenly again at ground level ) Secondly, can your stairs take the weight ? even split some of the parts may weigh one or two hundred pounds, two hundred pounds carried by two strong guys means that each of them will probably have a total weight of 250 pounds to 300 pounds ( or more ) that is their own weight plus t the weight they are carrying, that means each of their steps is placing a total weight of 250 to 300 lbs on each stair riser, concentrated in just the area of their shoe sole.. Thirdly..you might want to talk to your insurers first, because if anything happens, they will not consider placing such a weight on the stairs or the floor as "normal", and thus may well refuse to pay out if there is an accident , involving damage or injury, during or after the heavyweight acrobatics. My father had a removal business after he retired from the military, I was involved for a few years, in order to have such a business ( or certain kinds of transport businesses ) one has to have in the UK ( and most other EU countries ) what was known in the UK as a "certificate of professional competence"..( requires a quite stringent examination to be passed and to gain the certificate, we both obtained the qualification, and all the other licences, HGV artic' , forklift etc )..These were the kind of questions I would have asked anyone who approached us to move such a weight into an apartment via stairs..or even into a house at ground floor level..the floors in most domestic buildings are not designed ( nor are they capable of ) supporting this kind of weight when it is not spread out over a reasonable area.If someone could not prove to me that they were insured for such, and that they had had an architect "sign off" on the exercise..I would have politely declined the task, and left it under the tarp..on terra firma. :)
  11. Isocyanates are a whole different ball game compared to the solvents used in screen printing, the stuff used in screen printing ( even screen printing circuit boards ) needs long term exposure to do you harm ( mostly it is carcinogens, with some nasty stuff in the screen preps and washes )..isocyanates can get you on your first exposure if you breath them in..automotive painters and others who use them treat them with a great deal of caution. I know of two people, within 50kms of my custom shop, who died in their spray booths because their mask cartridges were past their "do not use after".. I was very ill twice due to defective mask cartridges..never did regain full lung capacity..when the activator is mixed with the polyurethane, what you have is a liquid plastic , it is then sprayed in vapour form ( very fine droplets ) , you breath it in and it goes hard, sets, in your lungs, deep down, it does not come back out, nor does it degrade, about the only thing that does degrade ( after years of exposure to it ) is UV light, and there is not much UV down inside the alveolae in your lungs..there are no "nice" molecules in 2 pack finishes.
  12. So..obviously you are going to keep this one ..size matters :)
  13. The problem with your "advice"..is that it is totally incorrect in relation to the original poster's question..the singer 201 is a domestic machine , drop feed , designed for sewing textiles, for "home dressmaking" ..even sewing 2 mm leather will have the leather sliding all over the place, it won't even pierce 12 oz , 5mm leather. I have to wonder..are you the person who sells singer 201s on ebay as "semi industrial" ,"sews leather" next to stacks of dimes ? btw..I have ( along with my other sewing machines ) a 201..a lot of us here have one..we don't use them for sewing leather
  14. should read .. is sprayed thinner and used as a top coat or a clear protective coat. my speelchucker underlines everything in English. ps..I forgot to say ..Very nice restoration there :) and.. I agree with dikman..:) keep both.. and then get them some company..
  15. 2K is a single can version of what automotive painters and custom painters know as "2 pack"..the "clear" 2K is an aerosol version of 2 pack clear..Most of this stuff uses an isocyanate ..ioscyanates vapour can seriously harm you, temporarily, long term or even kill you if you breathe them in (..extremely simplified explanation is that when the vapour containing them is inhaled, they then block the oxygen exchange mechanism of your red blood cells that you need to stay alive,symptoms of isocyanate vapour inhalation are, your joints will ache, you'll be short of breath, your breathing will become severely laboured, you may hallucinate, you may lose consciousness and may stop breathing )..these symptoms may start showing upto a few hours after "exposure".. You may have finished painting or applying your clear coat, washed up, eaten a meal or gone out, or fallen asleep..By the time you realise that you have breathed the isocyanate vapour in, you'll already be having some symptoms, which may get worse, much worse.. This stuff must be used with a mask ( cartridge type ) that protects against solvents and vapours..We discussed a 3M mask recently somewhere here that will be suitable..the the "activator" in most of these paints is also highly carcinogenic. Even spraying this kind of stuff outdoors without a mask is a bad idea..spraying it indoors ( even in an automotive spray paint booth with extraction ) a mask is mandatory.. I used a lot ( hundreds and hundreds of litres ) of this type of paint ( it exists as pigmented 2 pack too ) as both paint and clear and prep fillers when I had my custom painting business, one of the main reasons why I closed that business down was to avoid continuing using these types of paint. The pigmented 2 pack is used to paint truck chassis, and large objects like cars , boats, planes etc ,truck cabs and trailers .. The clear 2 pack is what we put over artwork ( custom painting or lettering ) or over metallic paint finishes ( if your vehicle has "metallic "paint the clear 2 pack is what is protecting it ) ..the most hard wearing versions of 2 pack are used on planes ( very high UV exposure ) and boats..Expoxy 2 packs last longer on chassis than isocyanate 2 packs do..Sometimes this stuff ( not the expoxy versions ) is also know as "polyester" 2 pack ( when it will usually have a filler incorporated to surface cover defects )..or as 2 pack polyurethane which is spayed thinner and used as a top coat or a clear protective coat.
  16. Those edges look "blued" like maybe they have got hot when someone was grinding them ? , if so the temper will have gone off them, in which case they will not hold an "edge" for long at all.
  17. Looks like you copied and pasted the link to your blog from the page at youtube where you have your video.. the source code of your link reads .. ***https://www.youtube.com/redirect?v=6sKMsa_kAU0&event=video_description&q=https%3A%2F%2Fkobe-beefy.jimdo.com%2Ftutorials%2F&redir_token=xRUAk3vRStsPKth8beX9JGPmaRV8MTUxMDYzMTEyNUAxNTEwNTQ0NzI1*** and is sending browsers from this page at leatherworker.net onwards ( via a "no follow" link ) out to youtube and then through youtube's redirect system to your blog. That will make some browsers suspect a "link highjack"..and so they'll give a warning. firefox 51 on linux gives the warning page shown in the screen captures above. Problem is firefox gives the wrong warning. There is nothing wrong with your page at jimdo..the only problem is that clicking your link is sending a browser through youtube's redirect system to get there..the techs at jimdo won't find any problems on your page..but if they come to this page, and look at the source code of your link..they'll understand what is going on :-) the source code of the link directly to your blog should look like this. ***https://kobe-beefy.jimdo.com/tutorials/ *** but with href link tags around it,( which would be where I have indicated by three asterisks like *** and *** ) which this forum software very frustratingly rewrites each time I try to add them ( the href tags ) manually. when the browser ( I just tested this on firefox 51 64 bit on linux ) isn't being sent to your blog via youtube's redirect system there is no problem and no warning..because your page is safe :-) If anyone copies and pastes this next line https://kobe-beefy.jimdo.com/tutorials/ into their browser, they'll go directly to your page where you were trying to send them.
  18. mikesc

    Leather Braid

    There are approximately 24mm per inch..so 6mm is around a quarter of an inch. But..you'd need a 13mm wrench to tighten a half inch nut..a 12mm wrench would be too small.
  19. mikesc

    Old stamp?

    It tapers towards the "design end", not many ( any AFAIAAO ) valves / " rods" taper towards the "face" end..although non sodium filled valves are very good for making your own stamps.
  20. Wait till you catch / develop "sewing machine collector's syndrome"..then you'll really be "stitched up".
  21. Maybe that is what the stickers below where the lever ought to be are about.
  22. Define what you mean by "natural".. Beeswax and a whole load of other animal and vegetable "waxes" are "natural".. Or do you mean "unwaxed" ? btw..I probably should define what I mean as "natural"..( has to be partially done so by defining what natural is not ) "natural is non synthetic"..natural is "occurring in nature"..
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