LumpenDoodle2

Speaking of flywheels, (and trying to not hijack the thread), I've been wondering about fitting a handle on the flywheel of my Juki 341 I find that it doesn't matter how slow a machine sews, I still prefer 'handwheeling' it on complicated curvey bits. Anyone know of a direct replacement larger flywheel, I could drill and fit a handle to. If none around, I'll live with what I have.

Yup, a bit of a nibble, and for the ones a bit on the tough side, the old leather shears work a treat. Long nails (IMHO) just lead to marks on the leather. As a previously life long compulsive nail nibbler, I haven't quite got the hang of these talon thingies yet. As to cleaning, who knew working with leather could produce so much gunge. I agree with the concept of the hair washing technique, it reaches the parts that some nail brushes can't reach. Can I also just recommend superglue on the nails for that everlasting gloss look. Not that I deliberately paint them, but the glue always seems to get on them, and the effect is 'interesting'. I also refute ever having been a normal shuman been, so probibly the wrong type of sentient being to ask about this.

Try a bit of a polish, rather than sharpening, and a little bit od beeswax helps too (sort of stab the points into the wax, making sure you avoid the pink bits, they're your fingers). The Nigel Armitage videos will help you out no end, worked for me.

You've done a great job there, with both the tools, and the leatherwork.

That is exactly what I did with my knife. I have a lovely old Dixon round knife, and tried to make do with the original handle in my little mitts. Love the knife, but once I finally committed myself to cutting down that lovely old handle (it felt a real sin), it's so much easier to use now.

Main lesson to learn, don't annoy the gods. Surpringly, if memory serves me well, Pliny the elder makes more mention of Arachne's tale than Greek writings. (Got a soft spot for Pliny's writings).

I'm sure a man of you calyber(sic) would never make a wrong stitch This method is certainly not unknown in the domestic sewing machine world, so it might be worth a google to see how the domestic market has used adaptations. A friend of mine has very severe arthritis in her legs, and feared couldn't continue sewing, until she hit on an idea. She attached the speed controller to the inside of her machine's cabinet, so just a light touch with her knee does the job. The presser foot lift is now knee operated too, thanks to a Heath Robinson device her husband put together for her (must try to get a picture of it). The designs shown are great, and more than do the job, and may even inspire folk to feel there is nothing to stop them from getting, and fully using a sewing machine. Personally, coming from the remote control models world, my first thought was to imagine whether incorporate servos to control the presser foot release, and a basic style speed board to control the stitching speed, would work. The operating switches could easily be located to suit each person's needs, and free up the hands. Again, no doubt there is some clever person out there who could put a kit together for the adaptation, without it costing the earth.

There is a sewing machine mouth operated speed controller out there. It's called a byteswitch, no idea of cost, but it's air operated. Certainly potential for development by some clever soul.

At €190, and a bit of a long drive, I'd agree with Constabulary. I haven't seen a cylinder 45K on sale for under £500, usually more.

There is other things out there that have an interesting 'take' on providing a selljng platform. I used to sell on a forum based 'auction/shop', and when I first set it up, I added a bit to my prices to cover the site charges. After all. I have a main webshop, so the forum based one was just an additional outlet. To me, it seemed sensible and good business practice to factor in additional charges The owner gave me a row, and I had to sell my items at the same price as in my own shop. Fair 'nuff, but a tad annoying that I was being dictated to over the prices of my own goods.

They are all Ritza, but Abbey stock the 25, and although they don't seem to list it as such anymore, the Ritza 20. The 20 has a slightly lower 'poundage' than the 25, but I have never noticed a working difference between the two. Just a price dufference. Ignore that bit about not listed, the 20 is back on the site.

Agree, what a great diagnostic idea.

Again, out of curiosity, and probibly not pertaining to this problem, but..... What would happen (if anything) to the timing of the machine, if the stitch length wasn't set properly when comparing the front stitch length to reverse stitch length. As I said, just curious.........

That's great, many thanks for your help, and the work you've put into this. Maureen

Have you tried switching it on and off again? Sorry, couldn't resist, that's my 'fallback' repair position'. Just out of interest though, is all this only happening at a specific point of the stitch cycle. If reverse is chosen when the needle is slightly higher/lower, does it make it worse, or cure it. (I meant to use the word excasserbate, but neither me nor spellcheck could cope).

I did a bit of shopping on Amazon for some summer ciders, and they arrived in these cute little protective jackets. As soon as I saw them I just knew what their alternative use was. Here's a piccie for you

Just to add my tuppence worth. For cutting thin strips of leather, I have used several methods, including the Tandy lace cutter. I finally plumped for the wooden strap cutter for everything. Personally, for thin, narrow (to very narrow) strips, I find it easier to control the cut, if I push the leather through the blade. I use my left hand to guide the leather.

Makes more sense, otherwise it starts to get a bit silly. Can you guarantee the needles are made in America, with American steel. Difficult to guarantee an unimpeachable source nowadays.

Invest in a good quality stitch ripper, it is a less damaging way to remove stitching than using a sharp knife. That just leaves removing the old lining from the belt proper. So far, gently teasing up enough lining to get a grip of, and gently pulling off, has worked for me. I have then used a knife to gently 'pare' or skive off any stuck lining. All done gently, and controlled. I agree, pictures will help here.

The prices are pretty good. Gone are the days of proper old model shops (must be getting old).

I ordered the solid brass rivets from EKP Supplies (www.ekpsupplies.com). New territory for me, so don't know if they will work, but you never know till you try.

One or two? I'd be filling the time machine.

Want one.......... want one NOW!............ (Just to add, that machine is taller than me)

Thanks. I can guarantee your customers are chuffed with the results. Hope mine turn out even half as well. I've ordered some tiny brass rivets from a model egineering firm, so will give them a go, although the tiny nuts and bolts sound easier, and practical if the lining ever needs repaired/upgraded.