fredk

oh, aye ye can. I have sewing tape measures just in metric or just imperial and some with both. Some tape measures which have both have the two scales on opposite sides of the material ie, front & back and some have the measures on each edge. When it comes to rulers I dislike the ones which have the measures on each edge but starting at opposite ends.

Is it a ready-rivet or a solid rivet peened over? an idea; if you are going to replace the strap; cut away the strap from under the rivets then you'll have a gap to fit bolt or wire cutters into to get at the stem of the rivet and cut though that Rivet a new strap on

3M 77 is just about as permanent you're going to get. I've used similar, but probably poorer, versions and its lasted. . . . well, its lasted. Another type of adhesive is the heat-activated iron-on sheet. example; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sizzix-Accessory-Adhesive-Iron-On-Sheet-100-Polyolefin-1m-Roll/263974872556?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 though you need to be very careful with your heat

The speed of light is equal to the time a traffic light turns green and when the guy behind you blares his horn at you Mike; here for by length wood is sold in 'metric foot' or meter. The metric foot = 300mm. By volume its sold in the cubic yard, cubic meter or cubic 'metric yard' which is a cubic yard plus about 10% An easy way to convert US leather ounces to metric millimeter is to multiply the oz by 4 and put in the decimal point in front of the last digit, eg 5oz x 4 = 20, put the point in and you get 2.0mm, 9oz x 4 = 36 = 3.6mm. You are in fact multiplying by 0.4 Converting from and to metric & imperial and back again can lead to serious problems. Thats what happened to one of the Space Telescopes. One group in the US built one part using US Imperial, the group in Europe used metric and both 'rounded' some of the digits in the size conversions thus when the telescope was assembled in space the parts fitted but the optics were ever so slightly 'out'. They had to do an in-space adjustment repair.

If its the whole letter ~ a very small paint brush If its the outline of the letter ~ a gel ink or a fine tip paint pen

nifty

I think your idea is sound. I would use Velcro for the closure system on the strap. Then 'one-size-fits-all'. If you think 5 oz [2mm] is too thin, line it with some thin suede or pigskin - I would do that anyway to give a smoother surface against the skin of the arm. Are the pockets for the shafts long enough?

Thanks for sharing the photos. Its so good see the factory preserved. Those gates are simply magnificient A. Its only on a forum like this that we enjoy looking at photos of an old factory! B, I can't say for Germany, but in the UK in the early years of the 20th century import taxes on goods could be as high as 75%. The sewing machine was a luxury item so was taxed at about 50% on imported ones. Thats why Henry Ford opened his first English factory in Manchester in 1917 - to get round the import taxation of 25% to 50% on Ford vehicles. Plus goods made in Britain and exported were given a tax relief. So it would make commercial sense for Singer to have a British factory. Also at that time Scottish steel and iron was superior to any in Europe and Scotland had a very big iron producing industry.

Try Copydex

I'm not exactly sure just what you did but usually when a thread breaks, go back about 3 stitches and just start sewing again. If you are doing two-needle saddler stitch then the broken thread will be locked into its holes by those three stitches. Just trim the broken thread off real neat. Glue on it helps but is not necessary with this method

There is or are formulas to work it all out but I do it another way. I cut the shape and size of the gusset piece, less the allowance for the skived and folded join, out of cardboard and use a fabric tape measure to measure round it. That gives me the front/base/back/across the top length for the inside of the leather that will be those sides. Then I just add how much I want the flap to come down over the front panel

again the difference. To most in the UK Capri means a car made by Ford, https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+capri&rlz=1C1CHBD_en-GBGB772GB772&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjz_f7bxL3kAhUzoXEKHR-4D0gQ_AUIEigB&biw=1366&bih=625 or just maybe an island in the Mediterranean sea https://www.google.com/search?q=capri&rlz=1C1CHBD_en-GBGB772GB772&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjz5Y30xL3kAhXuRxUIHZpHC7YQ_AUIEigB&biw=1366&bih=625 but I can't imagine anyone wearing either of those, with a belt or without!

Interesting. The OP doesn't say where he is located. Another difference between our countries. I've not yet come across any male trousers, of any sort, which will not take 1.75 inch [ 45mm ] wide belt. A lot of belts I made were in the 36 to 42mm widths [ 1.5 to 1.65 inches approx] with some to 1.75 and to 2 inch. 1.25 and under were rarely wanted except by medieval re-enactors

Not just a noob question. I've been wondering why as well. Perhaps its cos if you do the 'hole' end you'll end up with a hole too close to the end. On US belts the buckle end can sometimes be easier as they like to have removable buckles but in the UK our buckles are usually not removable I've shortened belts by chopping off the 'hole' end and adding on a metal or leather tip to cover up the one or two holes closest to the tip.

If you are thinking of making some belts for 'stock' and not-to-order I would make some in 1.25" and some in 1.75"

not really. I've done from 3/4 inch wide thru to 2.5 inch. Depends on what the customer wants

also, do not glue down nor sew the centre 1/2 inch

Try 1. dampen leather, not as wet as for moulding but as wet as for tooling 2. dilute the dye 3. dip dampened leather into diluted dye 4. leave leather in dye till dye soaks in, minutes not seconds 5. remove leather from dye, allow to partially dry 6. repeat 3, 4 and 5 as necessary until colour density is reached

With the mad rush over the Tandy Library website is running at a decent speed again. At least it was for me yesterday

On the matter of sand casting. I know it as 'oil sand'. I've used it for making belt ends amongst other things. The belt ends were made in pewter. I found this old picture of one I made a long time ago. The belt/strap end was copied from one found in a field. I made my original copy in layers of plastic card then packed oil sand under and on top of it. Split the oil sand mould, took out the plastic strap end, closed up the mould and poured in molten pewter through a pouring shaft hole. About 10 minutes later I split the mould and took out my metal strap end. The sand mould gets destroyed in taking out the metal strap end as some pewter is in the pouring hole and a vent shaft. But it only takes a few minutes to make the mould again

I've used various methods. 1. multiple coats of thinned paint 2. sealing with a floor varnish. You don't say where you are. In the US you can get a floor 'polish' sometimes called 'Pledge with Future Shine'** or a similar name. It is not a floor polish but a water-thin acrylic varnish. A few coats of this makes a good sealer. Then paint silver, then white. ** Astonish in the UK 3. Tippex / white out. A thin coat of this before the white paint. If you can use the roll of Tippex tape as it is more of a physical barrier

Thats why I keep clear of white thread, could I ask, for you to put your locality in your 'profile? that way when we give any advice, especially on purchasing, we can be more specific for you and your area

and there I was think it was for recording personnel who were on 'a charge'. When I was in the RAF Officer Of The Day kept such a book, entering who was 'on a charge' and what for and determining who was 'carpeted' ie went before the Senior Officer, for punishment another example of different meanings in the two countries

I've noticed that Tandy kits don't seem to give you the bast of anything but charge you top dollar for it. I have several types and sizes of threads. Currently two of my general purpose threads are 1mm and 0.65mm. Both are pre-waxed and flat in section. I buy my thread from Chinese sellers on ebay. Example below, most of these sellers can supply thread in different colours ~ I have threads in Brown, black, yellow, red, blue, purple et cetera. I like this thread as it is a. prewaxed, b. it lays down nicely when pulled tight example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260M-150D-1MM-Leather-Sewing-Waxed-Wax-Thread-Hand-needle-Cord-Craft-DIY-Ne-P9N1/143168155306 I have to import all of my leather work supplies. The thread order usually takes 10 to 20 days to arrive with me so I order well in advance of need, ie I keep a stock in hand I think for what you are doing and to suit your chisels 1mm thread is required. With pre-made holes, eg punched with chisels or made with a sewing awl you need Saddlers Harness needles. For 1mm thread I use John James size 2/0 or 1/0 Harness needles. For 0.65mm thread I use JJ size 4 . When sewing soft leather and I don't pre-punch holes Glover's needles are needed. For 1mm thread I use John James size 001 or Osborne 17 gauge, for 0.65mm thread I use JJ size 2 It was all trial and error for me too. I started with the small 'leather' needles in general purpose needle packs and a couple of very large spools [about 1500m each] of waxed Barbour thread I was given. [I still have some of those spools!] Others may chip in here and give their advice

a. do a search on here. there is somat about sending your photo to yourself via the phone and that resizes it to a size for pasting it here. I can't tell you more cos I use a photo-editing proggy to resize photos/ b. your thread looks a wee bit too small for the holes and are you waxing it enough?