Dwight

OK, . . . now that we have discovered it is not a biker belt, . . . and not a battery belt (used by nerds to carry small batteries to recharge their cell phones, . . . battery is sewn into the belt in many cases, or serves as the buckle), . . . and in fact, . . . a belt used to hold a battery in place on a motorcycle. I'm just going to say good luck to you, my friend, because if you are using upholstery leather, . . . on a vehicle battery, . . . it ought to last a good 30 days in the sun, heat, frost, dew, rain, and whatever the biker subjects it to. And that is not saying anything about the fumes which come out of a battery being used to start and run a vehicle, . . . That is the reason battery hold down's are made out of metal, . . . But have fun, . . . just be ready to see it come back in less than optimal condition. May God bless, Dwight

I had to google the term "battery belt", . . . having no idea what it was. So the question becomes: "where are you going to stash the battery he wants in it"?? To me, . . . that makes it almost a "have to" case for simply gluing the upholstery leather to the outside of the completed battery belt, . . . using it as a final finish. I'd also be willing to bet that if he gives it any kind of rough service, . . . you will be making him another one, . . . or he will abandon the idea. May God bless, Dwight

You will be hard pressed to beat a copper rivet, . . . properly cut and peened. But it is also a bit of work to use them. My dog collars and leashes I make have no rivets at all, . . . they are sewn. Have never had a complaint. Fact is, . . . one customer had two little pug bulls that figured out how to get each other's collar off by biting and pulling, . . . collars had shocking device they didn't want to mess with. They have yet to get my collar off each other. Yeah, . . . customer was some kind of happy. Those dogs still don't like me. May God bless, Dwight

I'm with you on this. Kinda like facebook, . . . used to be fun a few years back, . . . now so much of it is where they are, . . . what they are eating, . . . what they bought, . . . where they are going, . . . what x said to y, . . . what y said back, . . . and how x countered, . . . Give me something I can use, . . . just not interested in the day to day, . . . life stories of everyone. May God bless, Dwight

Use a little ingenuity, . . . there are bunches of punches can be made from EMT. Different size holes, . . . Cut away 1/2 of the circle, . . . becomes a punch to round the end of straps Cut away 3/4 of the circle, . . . rounds off corners Flatten it somewhat, . . . becomes an oval punch Have fun with it, . . . I've probably got a dozen punches made from EMT May God bless, Dwight

Buy a short section of 3/4 inch EMT (eletro metallic tubing), . . . better known as conduit. It needs to be about 8 inches long. Take a dremel tool and sharpen the outside edge of it, . . . by sanding a bevel into the inside edge. This won't work as well for anything above 6 oz, . . . but for chaps, billfolds, purses, thin one layer belts, . . . it works great. The same thing in 1 inch, . . . makes just over a 1 inch hole. Sharpen it by running the outside against a belt sander. AND, . . . it's like the little birdie, . . . cheep, cheep, cheep. May God bless, Dwight

Three things: critical 1. That is going to be one uncomfortable holster, . . . unless he has a portly side flap of human body in which the inside of the molding can settle into. You molded way too much of the weapon into the inside. 2. Unless he is wearing a very thin belt (maybe 1 inch wide) threading it through the holes will prove to be problematic and will destroy whatever belt he is wearing. Cut your belt holes so that the tops and bottoms are on parallel planes as sides of a box, . . . not a trapezoid as you did here. 3. There is an ugly little "point" on the top of the body shield, . . . sand these off with a belt sander. Same goes for the little point on top of the back side belt loop area. These would never appear if you took the holster, . . . after final construction, but before sewing, . . . and sanded, beveled, and polished the edges. It does not add to the function of the piece, . . . but it most certainly does add to the appearance, . . . which will ultimately bring in customers or send them off to other makers. Two things: applaud 1. Your hand stitching is far better than mine was when I bought my sewing machine 2. Your molding is good, . . . not over done like so many I've seen, . . . yet done quite well enough to be useful You are starting out fairly good, . . . just pay more attention to the end user, . . . Make a mock up of any "new" pattern, . . . wear it yourself for a couple days, . . . how does it fit? How does it unholster? How does it conceal? Don't get me wrong, . . . I've made a few holsters with hidden gremlins that came up to bite later, . . . but we have all gotten through them, . . . learned from them, . . . you can also, . . . and I have a sneaking hunch you will. May God bless, Dwight

We will excuse you for being a KW fan, . . . everyone has to have some sort of hang up, . . . If you want to make your first belt, . . . get some shoulder leather, . . . buy a nice double shoulder . . . get a 6/7 ounce weight. Measure the belt you have on right now, . . . from the outside of the buckle, . . . to the hole you use the most. THAT is the size belt you will be making. You are going to need a pattern, . . . believe it or not, . . . in order to get both ends to work out correctly. Send me an email address, . . . I'll send you the patterns for each end. I cut two pieces from the shoulder, . . . side by side, . . . 1 and 7/16 inches wide, . . . do the end treatments, . . . contact cement them together, . . . sand and smooth the edge, . . . sew the two pieces together, . . . bevel and dress the edges, . . . give both sides a light coat of neatsfoot oil (the oil, . . . not the compound), . . . when it dries, (24 hours minimum later), . . . Idip dye them in Feibings oil dye, . . . reduced 1 to 1 with Feibings reducer, . . . and allow that to dry for another 24 hours. My favorite color is saddle tan, . . . but you can pick your poison. The darker tans and black, . . . generally will dye more smoothly, . . . less blotchy places. Finish with a couple light coats of Resolene, . . . cut 1 to 1 with clean tap water. You will then have a belt that will last you 20 years, . . . providing of course that you don't do too much of that pizza and sub-sammiches while you watch Ohio State whoop up on KW. Just holler if there is anything else we can do to help.............. May God bless, Dwight PS: I'm actually a second generation Carter County fellow, . . . married to a first generation Lewis County lady (50 yrs and counting).

Woo-hoo, . . . I love the paint job. Not a big fan of purple, . . . but sometimes, . . . and this is one of them. Cannot offer any specifics on "how to" to make it better, . . . but if that was mine, . . . I'd play with it in my spare time, . . . for days, . . . until I got it working again. Best wishes and all the encouragement I can muster up, . . . is yours, . . . go for it. May God bless, Dwight

Same here in Ohio........... May God bless, Dwight

Go ahead, . . . but make the tool first, . . . Piece of conduit (3/4 inch), . . . cut it off square, . . . ream the inside so there are no burrs, . . . sharpen it all the way around before you begin the cutting. Cut it half way thru, . . . cross ways, . . . then cut the "cut piece" down the middle, . . . and then bend those wings back 90 degrees. Have fun, . . . and show us your handy work. May God bless, Dwight

That's easy, . . . When I started making belts, . . . I did not like the way it looked after a while with the two pieces just butting up against each other. A wrinkle would develop, . . . especially if it was flipped over backwards one or two too many times. So I set about to find a better way. That is what I developed. The one picture shows the tool, . . . just a piece of conduit I sharpened all the way around, . . . cut it half way through (cross ways) the split the cut half and bent them back 90 degrees. As you can see, . . . they come together nicely, . . . and the irregular shape keeps the belt from developing the "wrinkle". May God bless, Dwight

Thanks JD62, . . . sometimes the obvious goes over our head like Canadian geese in the spring time. Gotta get some pins and a board, . . . but the "small piece" is what I should have done. I just automatically thought of this place as I have had SO MANY questions answered at one time or another. May God bless, Dwight

I'll second Josh's motion, . . . just change M&G to Resolene, . . . Process is pretty much the same though. May God bless, Dwight

Chick, . . . do yourself a favor, . . . buy a Tippmann Boss. They can mail the darn thing, . . . it doesn't need electricity, . . . and will sew up to 3/4 of an inch of dry leather. They are in Ft. Wayne, Indiana. https://tippmannindustrial.com/tippmann-boss-leather-sewing-machine/ I've had mine over 10 years now, . . . don't know how I'd do leather work without it. May God bless, Dwight

I have several deerskins I was getting ready to use in a project, . . . and when the previous owner had them, . . . they were folded. That put some wrinkles in the leather, . . . and of course around the edges there are always some wrinkles etc. I was thinking of wetting them all down and stretching them out to dry, . . . hoping that would get rid of the wrinkles and folds. Anyone got any advice, . . . DO IT ???, . . . DON'T DO IT ??? Don't want to ruin the leather, . . . but if I could get it all flattened out, . . . it would make the job a whole big bunch easier. May God bless, Dwight

Ok, . . . its a garage, . . . go buy enough porcelain chain pull fixtures so you can put them in a grid about 6 feet apart, . . . buy LED daylight white bulbs, . . . get a "good guy" to wire them up for you using metal EMT and metal boxes, . . . you can put 20 of those (equivalent to a 60 watt bulb in lumens) and all can be controlled by one switch by the door. Plus there is no "heat" factor to worry about, . . . your annual electric bill may go up 25 bucks, . . . You will not believe what an absolutely wonderfully well lit work shop can do for you, . . . for your work, . . . and best of all, . . . for your attitude in general. May God bless, Dwight

Good looking work, Forester. May God bless, Dwight

I have made chaps and several vests, . . . I go to JoAnn fabrics and in the back of the store (both of them where I live) they have a cloth backed vinyl product that will sell for something in the $20 a yard price. I think (am not certain) it is called marine vinyl, . . . I do know it is tough as nails, . . . about the same as your deer skin in thickness, . . . and approximates leather very good for patterns. One yard for you will be a piece 36 inches wide and 45 inches long. For your shirt, . . . be sure to line it with a substantial but none the less silky feeling material, . . . so it slips on and off easily and will move around on the person without hanging up and looking wrinkled. I'm not sure what you call it . . . I know what it is when I buy it for my vests. I make the vest, . . . then use it for the pattern for the lining, . . . I then turn both inside out, . . . and apply a very light coating of contact cement to the edges about 3/16 of an inch wide. I then sew them together around the edges (except the bottom) turn them right side out, . . . go around the edge again about an 1/8 of an inch in from the edge, . . . then fold the bottom under, . . . and sew it together from the outside. When I make my deerskin shirt, . . .I will use a very similar process. I want one very similar to the one Roy Orbison used to wear on stage. Similar to the enclosed picture. May God bless, Dwight

I would surely like to know how you kept all those card slots so flat. Can you give us a drawing or picture to show us the secret?? Really looks good, . . . in fact, . . . I've got a "sort of" nephew I've got to make a wallet for, . . . that may be his pattern if you don't mind. May God bless, Dwight

All of my sewing is done with a Tippmann Boss, . . . and yeah, . . . I follow the same pattern as JLS did. I just cannot go the other way, . . . as the throat becomes a problem, . . . and the fact that I'm right handed, . . . May God bless, Dwight

Considering that the galvanizing itself is resistant to corrosion, . . . then we have the layer of contact cement which is resistant to allowing moisture thru (same for galvanizing), . . . and then several coats of Resolene (or something similar) to top coat the leather. THEN, . . . after the moisture has made it's way down thru all of that, . . . the corrosion has to make it's way up, . . . The article would be worn out and useless before all that would take place, . . . May God bless, Dwight

While not notorious for doing so, . . . sometimes a magazine can become a problem and has to be dropped, . . . replaced. That is the reason for the "first" extra mag. The second extra mag is for places some of us have to go that in years past, . . . would have been traversed only by a fire team that had air support. You apparently don't have those places, . . . some of us do. I have 1 magazine places, . . . 2 magazine places, . . . and some places that I just don't go thru any more. As a child, . . . walked those streets with no fear at all, . . . worst thing that might have happened would have been a snowball fight. Today, . . . that area is the first part of the nightly news, . . . with one or two of the day's daily shootings or stabbings. And, yes, . . . I am proficient with my 1911, . . . just want to be sure I come home each night. May God bless, Dwight

I had a Singer 155 for a while, . . . alongside the Tippmann Boss I already had. The Singer stayed about 3 months, . . . got sold, . . . have never looked back. If I were you, . . . the Tippmann Boss is the only machine I would look at. This one is on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tippmann-Boss-Sewing-Machine/302946884584?epid=99171804&hash=item46890a9be8:g:1fEAAOSwNUlb4HF1:rk:1:pf:0 It is used, but probably not a problem. I've had mine for nearly 10 years, . . . it WILL SEW up to 3/4 inch of dry leather, . . . it allows you to put the stitch EXACTLY where you want it, . . . and cannot get into run away mode like an electric machine can. I sew belts with it, . . . an average 50 inch long belt (for a 44 inch waist) takes about 20 minutes. Sew one side, . . . grab a cup of coffee, . . . do the other. It is an awesome machine, . . . their service is second to none in my book (I drive it up there if I have a problem, . . . Ben cleans off his work space and fixes it, . . . and I drive home). Mostly I do holsters with it, . . . go to Dwights Gunleather on facebook and you can see some of the things I've produced with it. May God bless, Dwight

I'm not really sure who told you that about the swivel knife, . . . but I'll challenge the statement. Swivel knives, unlike ratchets or welders or handguns, . . . are pretty darn near the same the world over except for one distinguishing part: sharpness. A cheap, pot metal and plastic swivel knife with a good blade that is SHARP, . . . let me say again SHARP, . . . will do anything you want it to do especially for the first 4 or 5 years as a hobby leather worker. The only difference you will find is that a regular blade will have two cutting points, . . . and an angled blade will only have that one point as it has a 45 degree (?) angled cutting blade when you look at it being held perpendicular. You will need to get two knives (best choice) or at least both blades. Make a stropping block by contact cementing a piece of 7/8 oz leather to a nice flat 1 X 6 about 18 to 24 inches long, . . . rub it real good with white rouge, . . . and take a piece of 1/4 inch steel about 4 or 5 inches long, . . . rub it the length of your stropping block, . . . look for the black places it leaves on the block, . . . that is where the rouge is working, . . . get it so that about 75% of the board looks grey or black. Then sharpen a couple knives on it (might make your wife happy). When you get your knife from Tandy or wherever, . . . it will only be kinda sorta sharp, . . . I have a 200/400/600 grit block I got from Harbor Freight that I use on my knives, etc. . . . to get me started, . . . but that stropping block is THE KEY to final sharp. You want that edge to be like a mirror, . . . work out all the little machining grooves etc. THEN, . . . you will have a knife that you can use. May God bless, Dwight