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Dunluce

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Everything posted by Dunluce

  1. Dunluce
    It maybe doesn’t help much but Decocuir also do a version and they have a sale on at present. Anything I have bought from them has always been good quality and they have excellent customer service. Although the site is in French it is easy enough to navigate and I have never had trouble oredering from them (thanks Google translate!) https://www.decocuir.com/alimentation-manche-fer-fileter-cuir-marquage-c102x2752029
  2. Dunluce
    For those in the UK the Identity Store have started doing their own brand of this type of edge coating. I have used on a few items such as watch straps and found it really good. It also comes in smaller 125ml bottles.
  3. Dunluce
    When you mentioned this I remembered that is where I saw the molotow markers being used http://andersenleather.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/burnish.html i believe he also uses larger ones elsewhere for dying larger areas of leather. He does some quality work.
  4. Dunluce
    I recently read of someone using Molotow markers to apply due to their edges. These are markers that can be filled with your own dye and have different size tips that can be used. I have been looking at getting some tomtrial myself https://shop.molotow.com/en/marker-refills/molotow-leermarker-411em.html?___from_store=de
  5. Dunluce
    Anyone ever tried one of these for skiving knives? http://www.hewitonline.com/Arrotino_English_Paring_Knife_Sharpening_Guide_p/tl-073-pn.htm
  6. Dunluce
    Just what I was about to say!
  7. Dunluce
    If you register with Craftsy you can download a free tutorial on making a toiletry (dopp) kit at the following https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/patterns/1-hour-dopp-kit-tutorial/281375
  8. Dunluce
    Very nice. Very clean. I admire it and your ability
  9. Dunluce
    I have just purchased a couple of reels from Deco Cuir and I must say I find it great to sew with. It's the price I find prohibitive but the ones you quote are almost half what you would pay elsewhere. What thickness were you sewing with if you find it breaking easily?
  10. Dunluce
    Have you checked out Goods Japan? They do rounded edge bevelslers that come with their open sharpening tool and they recommend what size beveller to use with what thickness leather. Any tool I have bought form them have all been good quality.
  11. Dunluce
    Now Tom Baker was good, but Jon Pertwee beats him every time!
  12. Dunluce
    This company does plastic and brass and is based in the UK https://www.artisans.co.uk/
  13. Dunluce
    Tom, here is a simple, design I have started to carry to the pub. I can carry my travel card and bank card and some folding cash. It is slim and not noticeable (to pickpockets). If I do lose it I know exactly what I have lost, not a whole wallet full of cards to cancel. its only three bits of leather and, as Bikermutt says, cut a few bits and play about with it. I have made several different designs and have shown one example alongside a plain one.
  14. Dunluce
    Love the look of this. There are many posts here about tooled leather and while I can appreciate the craft involved, it is well made items like this that make me think 'I would like to be able to do that '. One question; you say you used 6/7oz leather. What do you do for your piping at the seams? Is it the same leather or has it been skived down?
  15. Dunluce
    I think I will try a little glue on them. How do you cut yours? I read elsewhere that they cut them at a 45 degree angle to get a mixture of plate sizes. Is that similar to what you do?
  16. Dunluce
    I recently bought some ostrich skin that I was going to try and make some watch straps from. I have never used it before and when I looked at it the large middle 'scales' seem to separate when the skin is curved over as seen in the photo below. It looks like this middle section cannot be used for a watch strap (or anything that bends) as these will not lay flat. Has anybody used ostrich for a watch strap? Is there a way around this or do I have to avoid using this section which takes up quite a portion of the skin
  17. Dunluce
    Check out Goods Japan. They also come with an accessory to sharpen them
  18. Dunluce
    Thanks for the comprehensive answer. I think I will go for some 532 and 432 initially.
  19. Dunluce
    YinTx, Thanks, I think I might invest in some. Up until now I have used 18/3 thread for pretty much everything so what do you think will be the most useful sizes to buy. I'm thinking 532 for something like watch straps and 332 for wallets. Would I need to go bigger if using it for bags?
  20. Dunluce
    I am looking for a decent linen thread opposed to the bog standard stuff I am using at present.. As I am just a 'table top' leather worker making things for pleasure I cannot really justify the price of something like Fil Au Chinois. While having a look around the internet I came across Campbell's Satin Laid Linen Thread at the link below. The price looks a lot more affordable; has anybody used this and can give me any information on its quality. http://www.marchand-medieval.com/medieval/lang-en/164-satin-linen-campbell-thread-n532
  21. Dunluce
    Frdk, I am thinking cellulose thinners to remove the glaze, then dye, then mink oil to rejuvenate the leather and finally shoe cream and wax polish. How does that sound?
  22. Dunluce
    So I picked up a bargain pair of quality leather shoes at TK Maxx but I am not in love with the colour and want to dye them black. I know I have to deglaze them first, but will my Feibings dye be good for dying them or is there some sort of specialist dye I should be using?
  23. Dunluce
    kncory, Thanks for the detailed reply. 2mm (5oz) seemed a bit thick to me but I assume chrome tan is more flexible, I have never actually used it. Perhaps it's time I invested in some; one of them has a birthday coming up!
  24. Dunluce
    Very nice. Lovely and clean.. as someone who has a couple of daughters who would like something like this could I ask what type and weight of leather it is and did I you have to skive the top where you folded it over?
  25. Dunluce
    Reading the earlier posts about the beeswax coming off the thread and having to be reapplied while sewing got me thinking. I coated my thread with beeswax as normal but then got out my ironing board and iron. I stuck the thread between a couple of bits of brown paper and gave it a few runs over with a hot iron. Some wax came off on the paper but you could definately tell most of it was absorbed into the thread. It definately seemed to give a stiffer smoother thread that was easy to sew with
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