Hags

Very, very nice! I have a cobra class 3, I love it. Kinda wish I'd gone the few extra bucks for the class 4. Just a little more room would be nice. I also want to get a mannequin to hang stuff on during design and fitting up. Great work!

Very nice! I have a class 3 and it took a while to figure it out. All good now though, but I still do some hand stitching and have been a Maine thread customer for several years now.

I made a chest rig for a young man for his SA 1911 and he liked it so much he wanted me to make one for his mother. He wanted " MAMA BEAR" on the front. It took a while to get the letter set from Leatherstampmaker.com but I am very happy with it. Just dont forget you have to place them in reverse... duhhhh.

These are not anything special, but, a neighbor asked if I might be able to help her neighbor who has a disabled dog. How can you say no? These are "elbow?" guards for a small dog with paralyzed rear legs. She gets abrasions on them from walking with her hips. They needed to be trimmed and finished, but I hope they can improve her life .

Wish I would've gone the BK set. Probably would've saved money and definitely aggravation..

Very, very nice. I also incorporate a reinforcing piece. Nice to see what detail we are missing. But, still, I like tooling the thing..

Sorry for responding so late. Crazy busy right now with a new deck and floors going in... I cant understand why you cant see my attachments either. I can see them. Maybe do a search in the show off or holsters sections. Here's a couple of recent ones. The one that looks like a lefty is a SA 1911 and is actually a RH holster. This is the effect of taking a selfie.. the other is a glock 19. Both chest rigs, one is a hiker, trail worker, and the other a hunter. I also just finished one for a SW 629 6" 44 mag. That took a lot of real estate.

I use 7/8 oz Hermann Oak for my holsters, check my bio and you can see my work. I dye first, sew second, and wet mold last. I do use a vac set up as does Adam's leather work now. Before I did it all by hand and had very good results. If the leather is too wet, you will never get it to take. Work it in, under a hair dryer on low for 15 - 20 minutes, then bone some more. I get my holsters wet for 10 to 15 seconds, wrap my gun in plastic wrap and seat as deep as I can in the holster then start wet molding. I use a reinforcing piece on the front so dont worry too much about the ejection port on front. You can lock the gun in if you go to deep on that anyway. I get most of my retention from the trigger guard on the back side. I use a boner, and one I made from a hoe handle the is a bit thinner on the big end. I also use a smooth pear shade from my tooling set to get a burnished look where I want detail. After that, I use resolene and water 50/50 mix and the burnishing difference all but disappears.

I just got a pfaff 130. It needed a little work but with you tube I got it going pretty quick. I paid $300 for a very nice unit. When I say it needed work I mean I had to unstick the selector knob. I sewd though 8 layers of heavy canvas before I "fixed"it. Can't imagine it would have an issue with a wallet. I have a cobra class 3 for my holsters and gun belts though. I got this for wallets, canvas and leather aprons, and dang it, it was just too cool to pass up! I'll post pics later. I mention this because you can find these around for not too much, they are German steel, and have a lot of info on working on them. I hear of people getting these at yard sales but good luck with that. Oh, and mine does have a hand crank so when the power is out I can still sew!

I recently acquired a vacuum set up. Love it!

Very nice! And I have to say very ambitious. Holsters were a stretch for me. Great job!

Me too! I'm in Sequim, way west side. Hope to see more of you!

Very nice. I see another use for scrap and my logo in the near future.

Looks very cool! I have to try this for my old Stetson!

That is one of the great things about leather working. Very fulfilling when you do something like this.

Very nice! Love the flag. I use a couple of lead "muffins". Left over lead from decoy weights. I put some leather on the bottom. Gotta weigh 3 or 4 lbs.

Thank you, this is a direct result of you sharing you design process.

Made this for a S&W 44 Combat mag. Black is not my favorite color. I get retention from the back of the holster, around the top of the cylinder, and the trigger guard.

Nylon just seemed to work better, no reason it couldn't be leather. I just felt it would be softer around the back, personal choice I guess. Also, leather would require a buckle of some sort? Again personal choice. The leather strap on the left is a belt loop that goes to the belt that holds the holster taut during the draw. I found that without it, you could draw the weapon, but it was a much longer/sloppier process. With even a loose belt attachment, the draw is much shorter and eliminates the desire to use the opposite hand to help. It's the thinner strip in the photo on the cutting mat. I put a line 20 snap on the belt end, the one with 2 smaller holes. The other end is for a Chicago screw adjustment with room for adjustment by the customer. Also, I make them for just about every gun you can imagine. If you can make a holster for it, you can make it a chest rig. My niche here on the Olympic peninsula is hunters that pack out game, backpackers that can't use a hip holsters, equestrians that the saddle interferes with a pancake holster, people that can't wear a pancake holster for various reasons, and I've heard a bunch of reasons.. I hope this helps.. ,

Check out my post for a chest rig for a glock 19 above 3/10/21. Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I build a bunch of of these. Would be happy to help.

I use Chicago screws to connect it all together 1 inch welded rings and YKK buckle on the right. I've had one customer buy 2 holsters, and just swap them out. That is heavy 1 inch nylon webbing. I use Hermann Oak 7/8 oz for the holster and HO 4/5 for straps and attachment loops, 7/8 for the back tringular (almost) piece.

He's picking this up today. I'll try to remember to get pics. Here's pics of the front and back, and how it goes together. I've enclosed a pic of all the parts and pieces on a grid background for reference I also included a the modified pancake pattern for the attachment points. The patterns I make using jlsleather.com method. He is a contributor here and his write ups are free and well worth the money!

He's picking this up today. I'll try to remember to get pics.

Revolvers are different animal for pancakes. I struggled with them but final,y figured it out. Flat backs seem to be a lot easier, but don't look real clean. I take a piece/strip of the holster leather, double it, take a stitch at the fold. Then place the stitch as close to the top of the revolver as possible. Move down the vun marking where the bottom meets as you go. I draw a line approx 1/4 in h from the top of the holster then measure from there. After that it's stitch and pray.. Looks good though!

Just did another chest rig. This one is for a Glock 19. Another elk hunter that wants his handgun handy when packing out his game. I have one for a bow hunter on the bench for a S&W Combat mag in black, will post that when I'm finished.