Hags

Very nice! And I have to say very ambitious. Holsters were a stretch for me. Great job!

Me too! I'm in Sequim, way west side. Hope to see more of you!

Very nice. I see another use for scrap and my logo in the near future.

Looks very cool! I have to try this for my old Stetson!

That is one of the great things about leather working. Very fulfilling when you do something like this.

Very nice! Love the flag. I use a couple of lead "muffins". Left over lead from decoy weights. I put some leather on the bottom. Gotta weigh 3 or 4 lbs.

Thank you, this is a direct result of you sharing you design process.

Made this for a S&W 44 Combat mag. Black is not my favorite color. I get retention from the back of the holster, around the top of the cylinder, and the trigger guard.

Nylon just seemed to work better, no reason it couldn't be leather. I just felt it would be softer around the back, personal choice I guess. Also, leather would require a buckle of some sort? Again personal choice. The leather strap on the left is a belt loop that goes to the belt that holds the holster taut during the draw. I found that without it, you could draw the weapon, but it was a much longer/sloppier process. With even a loose belt attachment, the draw is much shorter and eliminates the desire to use the opposite hand to help. It's the thinner strip in the photo on the cutting mat. I put a line 20 snap on the belt end, the one with 2 smaller holes. The other end is for a Chicago screw adjustment with room for adjustment by the customer. Also, I make them for just about every gun you can imagine. If you can make a holster for it, you can make it a chest rig. My niche here on the Olympic peninsula is hunters that pack out game, backpackers that can't use a hip holsters, equestrians that the saddle interferes with a pancake holster, people that can't wear a pancake holster for various reasons, and I've heard a bunch of reasons.. I hope this helps.. ,

Check out my post for a chest rig for a glock 19 above 3/10/21. Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I build a bunch of of these. Would be happy to help.

I use Chicago screws to connect it all together 1 inch welded rings and YKK buckle on the right. I've had one customer buy 2 holsters, and just swap them out. That is heavy 1 inch nylon webbing. I use Hermann Oak 7/8 oz for the holster and HO 4/5 for straps and attachment loops, 7/8 for the back tringular (almost) piece.

He's picking this up today. I'll try to remember to get pics. Here's pics of the front and back, and how it goes together. I've enclosed a pic of all the parts and pieces on a grid background for reference I also included a the modified pancake pattern for the attachment points. The patterns I make using jlsleather.com method. He is a contributor here and his write ups are free and well worth the money!

He's picking this up today. I'll try to remember to get pics.

Revolvers are different animal for pancakes. I struggled with them but final,y figured it out. Flat backs seem to be a lot easier, but don't look real clean. I take a piece/strip of the holster leather, double it, take a stitch at the fold. Then place the stitch as close to the top of the revolver as possible. Move down the vun marking where the bottom meets as you go. I draw a line approx 1/4 in h from the top of the holster then measure from there. After that it's stitch and pray.. Looks good though!

Just did another chest rig. This one is for a Glock 19. Another elk hunter that wants his handgun handy when packing out his game. I have one for a bow hunter on the bench for a S&W Combat mag in black, will post that when I'm finished.

Just finished this chest rig for a Glock 19. The person elk hunts and wants his handgun on him when he packs out his game.

My brother in law wants me to make him a pancake holster for his Sig P245. I can't find a blue gun for it, and we're 1600 miles apart. When I look up blue guns for a p245 the p220 shows up. Can anyone verify this will fit the 245? Thanks

Reminds me of a "stash pouch" I made for a golf buddy out of a piece of horse I had laying around. I told him I could do Armani or revenant man, and he don't look Armani! He loved the rustic look and unfinished edges

Very nice

I'm giving the pull the dots a look but thought they would just about have to open the same direction... I'm still going to get some to try. Don't care for the belt clips for holsters, cool for mag pouches though.

A friend asked if I could come up with a holster that he could take off/on easily when he needed to. I modified my pancake pattern yet another variant. Might make a couple of these for myself. Hermann Oak 7/8 veg tan Fiebings light brown pro dye with neatsfoot oil after drying Line 24 snaps Sewn on a Cobra class 3, 277 top and bottom, #24 needle. Wet-molded in my new vacuum rig. Thanks Adam's leather works, great video and parts list! So much cleaner! Resolene, water 50/50 2 coats

Ditto jls, I use his methods and have great results. One other thing I didn't see covered, watch going over the top of the cylinder. With softer leather it may not be too much of an issue, but with mine, 7/8 oz wet molded hermann oak it will lock that gun in like you wouldn't believe. You should also look at Adamsleatherwork on Youtube. That and jls' free instructions has helped me tremendously.

Sorry I didn't see this sooner! 7/8 or heavier leather. Chisels are rated at more threads per inch than size. Look at Main threads, they can help with thread size and are a quality product

I gave a $5 tip for mine

I've done both as well, and have had good luck with each. Boning and forming can cause a difference in absorption, but that can be considered character to me. I have gone to using fiebings pro dyes, and like the results much better, and a lot less rub off. Still, use gloves or you'll have colored hands, helps eliminate fingernail mark's too. I use pure neats foot oil on my holsters and sheaths. I've heard of many using olive oil, but have never tried that myself.