CowboyBob

Alot of these had a cotton string timing belt in them,it is no longer available,the rubber replacement one will require you to buy new upper & lower timing belt pullies to switch it to the new style rubber belt.So you might want to check if the belt is rubber or the string,the cost to change it is approx $400.00

Alot of motors have a built-in brake that comes on when your foot isn't on the pedal,so you might need to push the pedal down 1/8" or so to release it.

Yes,everything interchanges.

We stock 40, 45 & 50mm

15mm

I have a customer that uses 277 on top & 92 in the bobbin for upholstery work with a 206RB-5 we sold him.It would never work in leather though.

Just put some oil all the way around the hook,take your belt off,turn the machine towards you as far as it will go & then push the wheel backwards as fast & hard as you can.It might take a few tries BUT it's usually impossible to get those screws out when it's jammed up.

Nice looking bag & glad to hear you got it sewing again!!

Just to verify, at what point in the needle cycle should the take-up bar be at its highest point. From what I understand, needle and take-up leaver both max height at the same time. It's fixed & the only way it could be off is if you have a loose screw in the needlebar cam causing it to vary,the one screw goes in a hole in the shaft. But to answer your question when the takeup lever is all the way up the needlebar should be approx 6mm down from it's highest position .

This isn't an Adler but I pointed out the needlebar cam for you,should have 2-screws. needlebar cam.pdf

There is no takeup lever adjustment,but here is a set screw in the needlebar cam that could be loose,otherwise maybe your hook timing is slow causing the thread to not release off of the hook when it should.You want the opener to just open alittle & not be tight when it's pulling all the way counter-clockwise.

Have you tried adjusting the bobbincase opening finger?

That might be because you didn't loosen screw #31 & move part# 30 to the left.

No, what "might" need to be changed would be the shim behind the race.BUT I've never have seen it needed to be done.We can only get these shims from Juki @ at $350.00 ea so doubt if you want to go that route since there's is an adjustment where you can move your whole needlebar rockframe to adjust the needlebar left or right(see about 11 posts up on this thread).I would test it first & THEN only if your having a problem adjust it.

There is no needlebar travel adjustment only height adjustmentfor the hook to catch the loop of thread off of the needle..This is controlled by the thread tension adjustment & as long as your knots are hidden in the leather so you can't see them then the tension is correct.

@TomSchroeder DO NOT TOUCH THIS!!! Look at the gap you have in this pic! You might need to scrape off some of the paint on the inside to make it seat all the way back.

What I've seen happen alot on these is the hole elongates (I guess from the needle pushing into the far side away from the screw),loosen the needle set screw & see how much play the hole has in it,I'm betting you need a new needlebar which we do have in stock.

Here's the threading,your missing the check spring adjuster & screw on your machine

No,like he said once it's unscrewed pull on it as you twist it & it'll come out.

The bracket behind the tension can be bent either way(by using 2-screwdrivers) to fine tune the opening of the discs & always needs to be done when installing a new one.You could ecchange the new bracket on the back & use the old one to save some time.

We sell alot of these arms part#226292 to people to mount the binders with.It fastens in the tapped hole in the middle of the bed with 1-screw.We also put a tack weld on the backside to keep it from pivoting since this bracket only has 1 screw to hold the binder.

Just saw this,glad to see you got it figured out.Just thought I'd mention if you ever break the needlebar screw you can almost always get them out by clamping some vice-grips on the needle stub twist it alittle as you pull down & remove it.Then with the pressure of it the screw will back out by using the point of a needle.

Maybe the (back) aka pressure bar is stuck?

That's right I forgot those take a smaller shank,You can get a 71x1 needle same length & shank diameter up to size #140

You can't change the stroke BUT you can buy these 135x5 needles up to size #24,I know they are shorter but they will fit in w/o any problems.this isn't a real heavy duty machine either so you'll be limited to sewing around 8mm at the most.You might try to adjust the needlebar up so the longer 135x17's will fit & it will give you more clearance for thicker webbing but IDK if this machine would ever sew 12mm consistently.