RockyAussie

Hi Michelle, I would replace that drive shaft but as gigi said it may not be the cause of the wobble. I would put the thing back together without the shaft and try spinning the feed roller by hand to see if there are still wobbles. The shaft that the feed roller spins on is likely worn as well and need replacing. Also if it is a stone or rubber the feed wheel itself may need replacing as some operators can be known to adjust the feed wheel up and into the knife and do damage.Mostly though make sure there is no play in the knife up and down as if that is coming from the shaft that the knife attaches too, it may not be worth doing at all. Hope that helps Regards Brian

Just a tip to try. I have had the same thing happen more times than I care to admit but I have had success in removing the broken taps when they ended up level by using a Dremel cutting disc and cutting an Allen key to suit. Normally the 3 prongs end up at 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep. Works most times.

Nothing any where near that interesting. Doing a video on belt edging and testing out patterns and techniques on our new tote we are calling Emily.(After my granddaughter). Came up with a couple fitting designs that start with our 3d printer we then cover over. One for bag feet and one for holding straps on. Here's a couple of pics of them at this stage will post more when they are more finished. Hope to load video sometime next week to the tube. Regards Brian

Thanks Floyd, That post mostly covers what I was trying to work out.Unfortunately here in Australia the colour range in thread sizes drops right down when you get thicker than the 138/20m range and the 794 LR range of needles only goes down to the 160/23 needle range which is a bit big for that size thread. Also at that 794 length it is very flexy and more likely to miss stitches. I was hoping there might be a solution by going this way. Regards Brian

Thanks Constabulary. Would you know how to find the length measurements on that system? I believe that this one fits the 45k Singer but I don't have one to check.

Just wondering what needle system would be the next size shorter than the standard 794 for the 441? I can't find a chart of needle lengths with diameters etc.

Nice and interesting work there CazaLopez. Thanks for sharing.

Looks to me like you are going to miss all the fun of learning. Gone straight to Master from the start. WOW

That's are hard one at this stage. Nice looking work. How bout horse shoes front and back? Weld a 3/4" to 1" prong on the outer ends and make some leather straps to attach to the top line. Here's a picture might inspire...... or not.

Looks good. What is used to stop the lid contracting with weight in the bag?Stiffening in the lid or the bag?

Thanks for the answer. I hope to give it a try but for now that's a bit too over my head yet.

Nice clean instructions compared to some others. Thanks for posting Constabulary.

Very well done. What did you use for the steel type and procedure.

It looks to me that the needle is a bit big but at any rate loosen your top tension 1/2 turn at a time and check should help.

Thanks for that MADMAX. I like to see better where I'm stitching as well but I would not want to be stitching soft stuff and have it play up. Don't laugh as I'm sure others will, but I thinking about making it a non walking foot when I want that way.No front foot and closed up back feet the only foot. For intricate position stitching purposes.Just don't like the way the dog foot disappears so deep down in when at the back of the stitch.I'm not sure if there is any way to adjust for that as yet.Regards Brian.

Nice tidy looking mod MADMAX. I have been wondering whether to make a longer needle holder to cut down deflection but not sure yet if it is worth the bother. I notice the middle foot is cut near level with the hole. Does that give any problems such as missing stitches or anything?

Hi again Dunluce, just been checking a couple of videos on the subject and think I might have to do one.They were a bit rough and lacking in the finer details.A sheet of glass with some of that non slip rubber you get from the super market works well enough. As Gigi shows in picture above is one of my sometime favourites but it works best on soft leathers.To trim corners stuck together in that method I first push down firmly with a small pair of sharp scissors or sometimes a sharpened nail puller then press down into shape. What I call a slicker you might call a bone folder. They are good for slicking in lines as well. I make mine out of cow horn or bone normally to suit my hands and whatever the job application is. Normally I would not bother to warm the corners in production but after the glue has set it makes it easier to get it to mould around.Heated carefully with a heat gun or hair dryer will surprise you how much better the leather is to shape up.Sometimes I just use a lighter but on light coloured leather you have to be extra careful.Practice on some leather first to see how far away to hold it and how long. Like I said I think I need to make a video of it.

Looks pretty good Dunluce. Just warm up your corners a bit then with the side of a slicker press inwards and around. I do that style often. For skiving the corner hold the knife on an angle to skive with the side of blade touching the top of leather lining then put the edge of the blade about the same thickness of the product edge out before skiving.(2mm thick then start 2mm out) The skive should then be about as wide as the outer skin layer is thick.Carfully make sure all bits get glued including the skive. Let me know if you need a video done to show.Regards Brian

I think the .8 looks better but neither example looks to have been rubbed or tapped down and in some products the .6 mm could look better after tapping.

Have you tried a hot water and detergent soak? If you can get a good start at an edge try brushing along in between while gently pulling apart. If no go try methylated spirits and same process. Cut out small sections for trials first I think.

The second lot look like you have got it a lot better. I could not be sure but it looks like your using LR point needles and in a seam that the stitching is not seen I would recommend either a TRI point or even round points.If the leather has a stiff surface as it appears too I would think it not a good leather for that application perhaps.Now that I see what your trying to do I I would not stitch into the skive at all or at least keep the leather over 1mm thick. When you tap the leather down try gently warming it with a heat gun first until quite warm to hot, then rub from the inside with a smooth ended hammer or slicker until nearly cool (about 1 to 2 minutes normally here). Then tap around gently onto a dolly until it looks right. Also make sure the thread tension top and bottom is tighter than normal.I hope you got to see my skiving videos as I have seen you having troubles with this in the past and was hoping they may help you some. I forgot to ask which model Highlead? Regards Brian

Thanks Sam and billybopp. I have thanked the videographer. Probably have to cook diner tonight now. Have a think about subscribing onto my youtube channel as that way you get notified when I post something new and it don't cost anything at all.More and I hope better coming soon.

Just another thought... They may be willing to supply the leather piece separately unattached and that would save a lot of mucking around perhaps.

There are tons of different ways to do this but I would say a picture of the product and where it needs to go would be the best place to start.Just had a look online and from what I see you could just replace that strap. I am surprised that they offered the dogs name at no extra charge as that would need be set up each time which would take some time doing. I make products for a lot of different brands and that costs no more as the stamps are made up once and reused sometimes hundreds to thousands of times.That time is then no more than any other. I would suspect that foil stamping would be the answer on firm chrome leather. This could be done locally no doubt by someone who has 1. a clicker to cut the shape out repetitively and store and 2. an embosser with a font style you think acceptable. This would take an experienced person around 10 to 15 minutes per time. As a one off I would not touch it myself as it would take too long. If you paid for the clicker knives and prepaid for 20 or 50 leather pieces to be made ready for stamping I think you may interest someone. If you check my website you will see where I offer free monogramming on my products. The foils can be gotten in all sorts of colours. Hope that helps some. Regards Brian

Thanks gigi I hope to see a post of yours going soon.