RockyAussie

Not true at all. A compressed sole leather for a shoe is about the only veg leather I would hesitate at skiving but for that I would soften the area I wanted to skive by soaking it first. A sharp bell knife and a roller presser foot will handle any veg you can like. This video I made about 3 minutes in shows a very hard veg piece being skived and in this case I could have set it up a bit better than I did. It was an afterthought on the run at the time -

Even if you have the machine threaded with tension not right the hook would normally still catch the thread. My first place to look is to make sure the thread is not wrapped around the needle when you start and that the needle groove is directly to the left. If the needle groove is too far forward or backward then the loop that gets formed can be missed by the hook. A lot of the time people put the needle in the wrong way around and that is way too common a mistake.

Thanks for that picture. Many different brands often have copies from the same casting and a bit of a google search showed some similar types that more than likely share the same M style I think boobin and case . This Mitisubshi looks right https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264933835667 And this Highlead as well - https://www.highlead.co.uk/highlead-GC0318.html If you measure the outer diameter and ask any machine parts suppliers to confirm I think you will find what you need alright.

I tried looking online for anything on a Ferdco pro 84 and could not find anything. Would you be so kind to post a picture of yours machine here?

Yep I reckon so, I gotta be careful the wife doesn't catch me looking at this stuff these days too much. I am thinking about it but what diameter size would be best to start with is the question? 1/2" or 5/8" you mention but would this apply on such a large machine with normal leather point needles and thread? How round are the round reins on average I wonder along with other horse related gear? I will have to start my own post with this question I guess. Sorry for going off topic to the OP

And this one which I am thinking of making a similar one up to go on my CB246 machine -

Thought you might like to see this one in my wants list -

Just drinkin mine now..... This is not the best video to show how I do something similar. At about 30 seconds in you can see a bit of how I do it. I think that a cut down blanket foot and and centre foot that is not the open toe type it would be possible if you are game to grind them back. On the blanket foot you have to grind back only enough for it to ride up tight to the swell. Only the part in the middle of that foot at the back will be doing the holding. I did have to grind the needle plate slightly off on the left edge to stop the swell pushing against the feet. https://youtu.be/1xy8efhw1U0

Oh yea of little faith, You in the wrong forum section if a you going to use language like that. Sometimes the answer is in the formula. If the swell is made of the right sort of rubber/foam it will sit down under the pressure of the foot and bounce back up as you sew along. There is also another special foot set that may be hard to obtain but it allows you stitch around the welts on shoes. Lots of adjustments with those so I would try the paddle feet first. Could you load any pictures of the bridle pieces?

Not all that bad. I am wondering why the side stitching was not brought further down to the bottom?

This part of it just does my head in. I do respect very much Singer quality and design but ...why have a freewheeling catch on the hand wheel and not a knob to turn it with???? If you disengage the hand wheel you could not load your bobbin. I suspect that the disengage function would not have ever been used on this machine. I agree with @shoepatcher about removing the front hub unless you have a hand wheel with a knob. Logically it would run more smoother and freely without having to run a set of gears for no purpose.

Hey @TomE, I am wondering if the right side paddle foot would work for you. With the narrow needle plate set and it you can get pretty darn close to the edge as you can see in this picture where I am stitching a oil stone pouch. Other than that an inline foot set should work as well or better I think. I do not do horse tack myself but with the 207 thread and the needle that that needs I would have thought 9/10 SPI would be getting a bit too close I hope to get to see how it goes. Regards Brian

Would this link be of any help - https://www.manualslib.com/products/Singer-29k70-701703.html

No harm asking I guess. I am tempted to just make them up from some of their hardware I still have seeing as how they claim that they don't make them anymore. Unfortunately I think the older seniors of the place may have got to retirement age and I have a deep respect for their past work and abilities. Communication with them has been very difficult and their web page is incredibly not English friendly nor up to date in any good way. They advertise mostly to make your designs but cant come to making their old ones due to them being too difficult to make now. When it comes to them making something from your design the cost gets way high. They use a badge I designed for a customer on their blog page showing the steps involved in the making of it. We had to get a lot in one order and they cost about $30.00 each. Neither the customer or myself were asked about them showcasing it that way. I did not mind so never brought it up with them but... This is the badge on the handbag I produced for my customer -

It looks like getting the taps for that thread size is pretty easy with a google search. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj2svCzieb6AhXYGLcAHUWhBsAQFnoECA4QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com.au%2F16-20-Right-Left-Hand-Thread%2Fdp%2FB075N48H1S&usg=AOvVaw0rXSk3GoaxJJH7xgbFknkA Being for push bike peddles it may be possible to get a bolt from that area and cut it to suit?

Thanks for the compliments on the bags everyone. I have been doing a lot of searching and have not as yet had any luck finding any reliable supplier of high quality hardware. Every thing seems to be disappearing. I am fast approaching the stage of getting some casting gear and making my own. I hate that idea as I have often had to resort to doing a broader and forever wider range of stuff to make my leather goods. I could not get any locals to cut and sand the mirrors that go into my lipstick cases and now we have to have had to do that as well. Glass sanding machinery is not that cheap. Brass casting gear looks to be another $$$$ rabbit hole. I hope the gold and nickel plating part is not another big problem coming up. Thanks for that effort @PastorBob . There were a couple of interesting finds in there. Most of them are resellers and I have found in the past that the pieces there today are not there again when you need them. Mostly the actual makers are not making a lot of pieces they were before and only want to make new products for your needs. I don't make very large numbers myself so the cost of getting the moulds made etc is not affordable. It would be good to find a collective of like minded buyers to get made a small range of fittings that suited their needs but I am not sure if that could ever happen. I may try another post to see if I can find any interest in that idea.

No...the spring I am talking about is a paddle shape that attaches with 2 little screws onto the needle bar itself. I will try and load this pdf manual where you can see it on page 27 part 18. Singer-29K71+72+73_Service-Manual+Parts_EN_text.pdf

Looks like a great find. How is the little spring that holds the thread onto the needle bar? I have found they are often broken when it comes to doing them up. I did a new one last week on a long arm 29K72 along with the bobbin rubber and a new needle bar screw.

Looks good to me.

This is only a problem if one were feeling any need to answer those questions.................. You misunderstand kind sir......If these manuals appeared insufficiently stupid, for one the phrase WTF may never have come into place. Secondly the people might make the mistake and think that what is written there might sometimes be correct and then rely on that information.

I believe at the time the Ferdco pro was highly regarded and did some improvements with the feed dog to help with miss stitching but to the best of my knowledge the feed dog was not an actively working feed dog that assisted with clamping the product between the feed dog and centre foot. The needle plate used has only a slot like the standard narrow needle plate set on the Cowboy machines. Although that needle plate can be used fairly successfully on some jobs it still has the disadvantage that all of the feed is only obtained by the action of the needle feed and walking feet which can result in less than ideal stitch lengths on some jobs. The narrow needle plate feed dog set I designed for the Cowboy machines overcomes this problem very well but I do not know if it will work on the Ferdco pro as yet. It works with the Cowboy and Cobras and Techsews alright. We have sold a lot of these narrow needle plate sets around the world now but as I said I can not say if it works on the Ferdco. Perhaps some other user may know? This link will show the set we make and other peoples opinions -

Same here

Help, I need a new supplier for my handbag fittings and in particular the front flip lock types. My supplier in Japan has stopped making these now and I need to find some high quality replacement hardware quickly. Most of the stuff I make is high end crocodile products some of which can be seen on my Wild Harry website and in these following pictures. If you have any good contacts to share please post here or send me a message if you prefer. This is a link to my web page - Wild Harry

Allow a room for keeping all hose deigns and loose bits to be stored tidy and easily seen and accessible. Room for your flammables. Allow for the whole lot to be moved around to suit the present required production. As time goes on what is important to have laid out well today may not suit what you produce tomorrow. Plenty of power points everywhere. Room to have gluing up safely and close to the operations, mine is mid building and off to the side where it can be isolated by a roller door if required. Heavy belt production as against heavy handbag production both take up a lot of room and do not intermix well for efficiency. Plan well as you can but expect the lay out to change around sometimes.