RockyAussie

If the rest of the stitching looks good and the tensions look good (knots in the middle) I would think that you could have hit a hard patch and the foot pressure was not enough to keep the job down. If it jumps a bit occasionally I'd say foot pressure as that will allow more thread to pull through and then have no where to go.

Nice style. Is it a wire or plastic rim support?

OK. I would find it difficult to see how the sale value would return the effort but if your getting the work enough that's all that matters in the end. Have you tried Schmetz LR needles in the 4500? You can get a heavy left right saddle look if that's what your chasing. Thanks for the better buckle picture. I think it would look nice with croc except I'd have to change the tongue for a rounded shape one.The flat ones are murder on the holes and the last thing I like is getting a belt back to be fixed up. Regards Brian

Welcome and I think your in a good place there as a few on this site like Caza Lopez should be pretty close I think. A whole heap of water between me and there unfortunately.

Looks good but why the hand stitch on the small one? How does the large bag attach to belt loops or ????Love the buckle on the belt.

Beautiful restoration. Now it has to start paying for itself I think.Roller next then extractor adaptation?

Very clever and very well done.

Although I use several different types for different purposes the most common one is interfacing which is a non woven fabric type stuff that most sewing fabric type places stock. I don't use the iron on type I generally just spray glue and attach most of the time.With handles a sheet type fabric would work well if not better. When working with crocodile and particularly glazed croc it tends to be want to curve back into a round shape and to overcome this I attach to the croc an interfacing and carefully flatten out and leave under a flat press overnight (thick craft-wood on top of marble slab and more weights on top). The interfacing finishes well short of the edges and skiving and the croc is generally recut to shape after the flattening process.

Nice looking set up. I would have thought it would be difficult on wheels to treadle.Looks forward to seeing the operational video.

Wow the quality of the video is fantastic and I agree this should be a great comfort for the owners of any of this type of machine. Thank you Uwe. I will here on refer to this procedure as the Uwe Grosse 441 timing method with respect.

Interesting idea but I think just a couple of inches in and tapered off would do due to expense.Could be quite difficult with snaps though I think.

Ah Ha, Now I get it. Good idea.

Just curious is that 8 snaps to reverse or what Matt S. Regards Brian

WOW that is one super bargain. I already have one the same but I would buy it anyway if the shipping only cost as much as the machine on top. $2200 total or a bit more.

Well that is interesting and a blessing I think in this case.I'm glad you have it back to working again and I will think about what else could be causing this issue more. Let us know if you find it. Brian

I have never had to adjust up on this cam area and I think it best Bob helps you further with this.I would not think to loosen off the bottom adjustment screw until after the top is now set right. I am surprised that there is any timing marks at all on the shaft as I did not believe the Cowboy versions had any there. I understand that they know where the thread take up cam at the end of the main top shaft should sit in order to get a zero position happening and as for all the other rotations to use from there to me is still a mystery. I would think if you followed what Bob said above you should end up getting that part in proper alignment and go from there. As I said keep taking photos and sharing. You may find this thread useful or maddening-

Here is another manual that I think someone said was easier to understand and it may help to cross reference with the other perhaps.It is a pdf file .inst-441.pdf

If possible please post some pictures of the parts you refer to and mention what adjustments you do .If you get all of it right it may help others and if you get it wrong we may see and pick up why. Regards Brian

There are a few differences but I think you need to advise what type of work you want to do more fully as both machine types have sponsored this site I think and it may be a bit ticklish to get the best answer and few will have a good knowledge of both. An enps is great when you need to do a lot of repetitive stop and start work and I love them but I don't have one on my 441 and don't really miss it there. Dealer wise you might be better off with the CB 4500 as I am unaware of a local agent for the Cobra but I don't know of that for sure. There are a few rough bits on the Cowboys and I think some parts on the Cobra are better finished off but I haven't had too many problems or issues with mine I have to say.If you get up this way feel welcome to come and try out mine. I look forward to any other user comments as well.

Hopefully I'm too far off to be sued but make sure if your stitching webbing that you don't use any leather point needle as it will cut and weaken. A point only style I'd recommend.

Thanks Bob. I have never done or thought to wet form with the suede attached before. I can see a lot of potential with this product for attaching cut out pieces to other pieces and I will have to give it a try if I can find where to get it here.It could save a lot of time when making some products like these picture below I think.

I have some machines that when you push on the pedal with your heel the foot lifts so I would think that if you had an arm loop connected to the pressing pad you could lift and get the same effect.One I have is pneumatic on a Efca variostop system and the other is electric magnetic controlled in a similar way and a bit like the thing (can't think of its name) on your car starter motor. The reverse may be easier if a hook above the lever (perhaps a large magnet to attach)and a large rubber band to loop over and hold the lever up. Some time back I bought a heap of them super magnets about 1 1/2" long by 1" wide and 1/8 thick and I found that I can use them in many different ways such as 1" boxing about a foot long can attach to my shed frame and act as a hook to hold sandpaper belts tools and so on.I often use them for holding templates for embossing names as well. Only problems I have had with them is when 2 get close to each other and you have a finger in between (Ouch) and when you get them too close to sharp knife OH Golly Gee that's not good. Hope that gives some ideas to pay with Regards Brian

Are you kidding? when that stitch goes wrong and the teeth grind down ....what have you got then.Youd have to do a relaxation course and lock the doors to have any chance I reckon..And can I ask how many people go to the dentist and when your mouths opened they want to ask questions?

That looks like an excellent solution. Just curious if it is practical to use your chest for pushing with in order to have more hand freedom still or would that create balance problems? I know when I made a linesman pouch awhile back I would have liked three arms to hold/fight it while sewing at times.Thanks for sharing.Regards Brian

NO. That is wrong as Uwe has pointed out. The (25.9mm) is when the needle is at the absolute bottom. After that when the needle is raised up 5mm the hook tip should be lining up with the middle of the needle then. 2 different steps here . If the needle is in the bar fully and the needle bar is in its correct position the top of the needle eye to the hook tip should be 2.5mm apart as well. Hope that makes it easier. Regards Brian