chrisash

Although over the pond from you try here for the Pfaff feet https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/pfaff-sewing-machine-parts/pfaff-1245-1246-sewing-machine-parts

Many thanks guys, that all seems far simpler than i imagined

Many thanks, it looks like i need to make something in fusion 360 and use the 3D printer on this one I know it would be best to use epoxy on bare metal but on the off chance would it be likely to stick firm onto the painted surface if lightly scratched with emery first, thinking of that epoxy that comes in a sound holder where you break of a bit and mold together for a few min prior to use (forget the name)

Hi Glen, yes i realise that part, but its more the fixing of the metal bar that holds the NP in a set position on the machine, not the actual attachment to the screw in the center of the hand-wheel If you fix it to the table you need to unfix it to swing the machine over to get to the underneath If you fix it to the machine there is no convenient position , on other newer machines it seems they have made a screw position that you can use

Ok I own up it did not last the short time, about 8 hours in it broke in two, but hey worth a try, might well be Cura settings need adjustment or different nylon

My Jack servo kit came with a needle positioner , but i cannot see how to fit it to hold it steady, has anyone fitted a NP to a Singer 111 model and if so any photo's would help Prefer not to drill holes in the machine

A thin layer of neatsfoot applied after the dye has dried and been brushed over can help if the leather has stiffened after the dye, but in most cases neatsfoot is not required, but if required then applied lightly, and if still needed apply again

Do you keep pressing whilst you move the handwheel and then select the intervall?

It would help if you stated the one playing up, otherwise its a guessing game between 4 different machines you show on your signature

I am happy with my Jack servo, and as a bonus spare parts are available at Collegesewing.co.uk including replacement PCB board and speed controller which is unusual these days both at reasonable prices

Is the needle centered in the hole it goes through, if you swivel the plate around there is another hole at the other end that may be larger or smaller The top screw above the needle holder can adjust the needle either to the left or right to make sure it clears the hole and also picks up the hooks loop

You can find new parts here and they ship world wide as far as i know https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/singer-sewing-machine-parts/singer-29k-71-parts and the take up lever is only £6.90 say $10 us

Work in conjunction with one of the leather shops in the UK or Europe to sell your goods, not necessarily all your stock but a range that could be increased according to demand

I suggest there is at least three layers of leather tools Cheap (normally crap) Low cost(workable tools that do the job without frills or bangles) Expensive (may be first class or maker living on old reputation) It come down to how clever you spend your money i guess, some people in London spend a thousand pounds for a room in a hotel to sleep for a night, if you are rich its hard not to spend your money on expensive items, if you are poor you don't have many options, most of us are somewhere in the middle ground

Maybe people should contact Tandy for permission to use their copy-write patterns, even though they no longer sell the item the design still belongs to Tandy i assume

Its often a choice between low price or none, people new to leather are in most cases giving it a try with absolutely not starting skills and often soon become bored and give up for the next in thing As you say a basic tool can do a good job, not as good as a great tool but adequate for the skill level of the person, but a proviso not a crap tool, there is a difference If you don't go for the 200 piece tool kit from Amazon but look at maybe the basic 14 piece selection you will probably find the tools a introduction and something you can improve on when you have the required skills Unfortunately many well known names who have high prices are living on their name these days and not value or high quality, computer aided design and manufacture have taken massive steps forward and its far cheaper to make 2000 of a item all exactly to the same spec than a few dozen that were great a few years ago, but not up to the same quality and higher specifications of the newer guys on the block Its true that 10 years ago a lot that came out of the Far East was poor quality, but now they have embraced the world market and moved to cad and cam to raise their game, though not all companies have been so forward thinking

Many thanks to all, that gives me the information I need, will not have to worry about knee lift as already in place and the 108 centerline from the cut out looks the key distance but will check first before drilling

Would i be far out if servo fitted midway between cutout and edge of table with pulley centered on pulley hole

One more question is there a fixed position i should drill these three holes in the table for the servo on my 111G155 in relation to the cutout I can work out the relationship from the servo but how far from the cutout of the machine is normal

Phil You can get a selection of leather pieces in A4 and 30x60cm from https://www.artisanleather.co.uk/ if it help and they offer a great service and very friendly, great for the small items rather than buying a shoulder of something just to make a wallet

Thanks Bob, Bit surprised you use metric over their, you must be slowly catching up

Shim for Jack jk513a motor to which has a 13 mm spindle and most pulley's for sewing machines come in 15 mm this shim fills the 13-15mm slot left, and made from Taulman 230 nylon filament Shim Jack pully v5.stl Taulman 230 profile with slow speed and 0.2 nozzel.curaprofile

Rather silly question, but my servo arrived today but had no bolts to fit to table, original 111g155 table had large black servo motor fitted to table frame and not the table top, so though you guys and girls may be able to give suggestion on what size drill and coach bolt i should use,i also guess it will need some washers . Nothing in the house to try as not really into home or mechanical repairs (i.e. soft hands)

There is a post here that may help

@DonInReno posted yesterday this spares book that may help as it shown thousands on machine spares and some screw thread sizes and cut details https://supsew.cld.bz/Superior-Sewing-Digital-Master-Catalog