chrisash

Wondered how the experienced sewers see the Jack machines, over the last 20 years they have grown to quite a company and most of their machines look like new designs rather than clones and building quite a good reputation and at quite low prices It does not look like they compete yet in the veg tan market or cylinder machines, but some handy looking walking foot and compound feed machines for chrome leather upholstery work, so guess they will be soon into heavy duty reasonable soon

By your own words, you are going to operate outside of your comfort and skill range in a area that can kill someone, far better to stay within your comfort zone and decline this request on safety grounds regardless of any so called waver

A patcher is by design for footwear patches, which will always be small repairs and not need lots of stitching, they also need to be as small in area to fit inside boots etc, a bit of a tradeoff , small is beautiful in a patcher, thread length a minor concern

With regard to the hole size, are you sewing with a single needle like used at home sewing or are you using two needles which basically means the first needle goes through the hole say from the top and then the second needle goes in the same hole from the bottom , which means each hole is filled with two threads Tiger thread is probably the most used thread and can come in many colours, and many suppliers sell it on Ebay and the like, many also supply it in different quantities from about 20 metres to 200 metres. see https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC1.A0.H0.Xtiger+thread.TRS0&_nkw=tiger+thread&_sacat=0 Many don't need to dye the thread as they make a statement with the thread like using Red thread on Black leather, and never heard of anyone dyeing their thread apart from large companies doing mass production Hope this is of some help

A 2 ton Arbor press is a good way to apply pressure and low cost even the 1/2 ton will do the job

Before I gave up clay shooting I had a Remington auto 410 shotgun, loved pissing off the 12 gauge chaps on skeet when i beat them with that little old gun

Fantastic work and great choice of leather, looks like it would have been a tricky item to recover

JLS I would like to make a suggestion, maybe without having my head bitten off For marketing it is often seen as unwise to knock your competition, but far better to actually market YOUR product is a way that shows it's worth the money, normally online, by detailed photo's and great descriptions, they are the only things you can do to show your quality and the thought you have given to the product, to make people want it, and in this case for both looks and also use. For something like this no doubt it will be moved around so is there a protective cover just like ladies expensive handbags is so mention these points Many will not understand wood or leather they just want a great product, so explaining the qualities of the materials used is also required for instance on your website you mention Leather on most pages but never give any information , it could be crap leather or from the best well known tanners available we all assume its veg tan but no mention on the page of any details Just trying to help, and not telling you how to do your job but offering proven advice

Nice looking car, looks so long the front end probably gets there 5 minutes before the back end

The thin paracord may be what you are looking for or the thicker 550 version wrapped in thin veg tan or chrome

Nick Would not that mean you have to have the calibrated Red, Green and Blue to make the mix whilst the colours used in the base dye's are probably not the same. by that i mean every dye maker has their own version of Red or any other colour which no doubt is not related to the colour coded red used in the software. So whilst it is a good guide to a approximation its not a true measurement and would need playing with, The logic is first class just not the base colours of the dye's

Gary If you use the Cura standard settings for most filament types they come out fine and i have never had any problem with uneven top or side surfaces just using the standard settings and the standard settings, for even better results you can use the fine settings but takes longer For stamps I use Taulman nylon 230 which gives a good sharp finish and takes the pressure without wear or breaking

You will find that if you use round corners rather than square ones the leather bends around much better What slicer are you using CURA is one of the better free ones with regular updates checkout https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

Why Boiled Linseed oil and not a deep varnish I take it you press down on the bar to open it up

If you look up leather steering wheels on YouTube you will find plenty of videos showing how to stitch the leather socks over the wheel and you would do the same for a yoke be it curved or straight, nothing technical required

Afraid the interest does not reach to spending money. just watch this forum and see all the western rigs and wonder about the actual history, I think chuck's reply is the most likely with people buying shotguns and rifles as the most popular and useful tools, with a pistol coming well down the list of needs, The pistol would seem most likely high for the actual cowboy herding beef but of little use for the homesteader/ farmers

For the top end fashion trade the Italians have it sewn up as the best, they still have hundreds of speciality tanners alive and kicking, where as most of the other countries have given up except for a few very specialised Veg tan companies

Just wondered how much change there was between the 1800's western holsters for the Mr Average and the holsters of the film industry For instance there is a big difference between the latter John Wayne holsters and the average cowboy holsters seen in the films and probably safe to assume the 1800's were far cheaper and more basic designs Also never understood that for the slightly longer time to draw a pistol for the average guy, they did not copy the covered in cavalry holsters that protected the gun far better , and if ok for calvary who probably saw more action, then why not mr average It would appear that gunfights portrayed in films were a very rare occurrence, with few noted in history so micro second speed would really be called upon

Hi Thanks for the link ,but have brought one from the 29k facebook page Thanks for the thought Chris

Looking in the UK for a singer 29K table without paying silly money like on Ebay

I can only feel for you guys, the pictures we see are just devastation and the fire maps show its all over all states in vast numbers Good luck to you all Chris

You may find "Tinkercad" a good starting place for simple 3 d printing designs and it's free and you can learn the basics in about 10 min, also consider "Fusion360" who do a free version for hobbie users and small companies but a bit more advanced but lot of demo on YouTube especially by "Lars Christianson" at https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=lars+christensen+fusion+360+absolute+beginner+

Have you considered using a pull knife, I have seen it in use by shoe repairers

Would you need to make a positive cast as you only need the inside of it to mold the leather. That way you get all the skin detail from the cast. myself I would use a vacuum method of tightly fitting the leather to the cast with a thin sealant between the leather and cast

Never used them , but assume you would need to mix them with other colors or white to get lighter colours using acrylic dye Dure i have seen that somewhere