chrisash

The cost of the leather and thread is the minor cost, labour is the most expensive part and when you work out a selling price and then calculate that price divided by your total hours you will find your pay per hour is crap and its just a love job

The £299 sailrite clone seen under a number of other names has a semi walking foot arangement and has a stated 1.6mm x 2 layer proven veg tan limit when i asked Ferco or something like that who makes the clones I think that is the ones R8R is talking about

Strange things people boast about, is that past the Watford gap by any chance

Comprehensive design and notes plus video so well worth the money

Just a note If you buy from a dealer you will get a hell of a lot of free advice available over a number of years and also spare parts availability, but it means buying either new or their own second hand stock If its your first use as you say then a modern servo motor on it would make life easier to start with rather than a clutch motor

Thanks, it just seemed odd, I assumed that all had a keyway

I am confused, is it not the key that takes all the power transfer rather than the allen keys that just hold the wheel into place, so id if in alignment with the motor have little work to do

There was a long time before 1938 for germany to buy equipment from abroad and it would serve no purpose to throw away usefull equipment just because you were at war Its nice to see original German film, very little seems to have been made public, but i do remember seeing a film about the bismark in the late 50's whilst on a exchange in germany and it was not the later british film If you google the Scarnhorst you will see it did not have a very good record with lots of storm damage that caused refit after refit but did sink a few british ships and a aircraft carrier, never thought that storm damage would effect a battleship

Never had a use for snaps and quick rivets, just wondering what exactly line 20 or line 24 snaps means and is there a size chart somwhere giving guidence to what size you should use

My chart nshows size 22 for 138 thread

Singer Patcher on German Battleship Scharnhorst at 5.44

FRom what I have seen there is loads of cheap Far East goods at silly money, but no way would i call them crap as they are very well made by mass production with low cost workers I know I could never buy the leather for the money they charge but people are quite happy to buy them knowing they will only last 12-24 months and then need a new replacement, but then most of us by cheap underwear or socks, polo shirts, t-shirts knowing they will never last more than 12 months if that, they will also buy any cheap item, which is cheap only by comparing it against other home made items made by higher wage costs Many home made items are more expensive because the makers dont export but just deal with the home market making their total market relitivly small so they cannot afford to invest into the most modern production methods In England we were always brought up that british was best and in many cases it was true, but nowdays you cannot buy a british made aircraft and sheffield steel is now a tiny industry compared to what it was, andonly a tiny number of ships are made in Britain, I guess its the same in most first world countries

The leather was and is made for purpose, if you were to make leather seats for say a bus, tractor or other well used seat you would use a different leather than say a Rolls Royce where the person wants a luxury seat with fairly modest use The early days of motoring cars were made like horse drawn coaches and made to l;ast as long as possible and take in all sorts of weather, today most cars only hva esay on average a 10 year life and will never see weather outside of the car Like most things you get what you are willing to pay for your selected money, and it's not just the leather but also the condition of the leather in visual terms

Nigel Armatage does a video on box stitch where he punches each piece with the pricking iron and then sews the tqo together, i wonder if you could do similar as the only difference is one is flat and the other at 90 degree, but pricking through each side would appear to give a more consistant stitch route Will admit i have not tried it apart from a test of box stitch copying Nigel so in no way experienced to make the suggestion

From the first picture it might have a small post on it, just not enough clarity to see

I put a layer of veg tan over my steel hammer and it stops any marks when you use it for glueing, maybe glue a piece of leather to the foot will work the same way as leather to leather seems to give good friction

Thanks Wiz

Many thanks, you guys are terrific Now to find the spare part. not showing on college sewing uk for the 29k53 number 8559 plate 1479

Now thats a great idea, many many many thanks

Just wondered if anyone had the meanings of the prefixes on the model numbers as to what they mean, or is the decription of what they are meant to sew etc just in the numerals as a type

Thought I would bump this up a bit, still looking forinstructions on how to take the head apart on the 29K and reasemble, What order do you go through and any major problems for a rank beginner on this beast Loads seem to have stripped them but no video from what i can see on youtube

Sometimes you can be so obsesed to use a design , that you fail to apply lateral thinking to overcome the faults you have identified with the present design,

I normally put a drop of oil on the hook before starting every day

Living in the UK , I am a bit confused about the holsters used in westerns Most western style holsters on this forum i have looked at seem to be fixed to the belt by a loop yet many holsters shown on TV and westerns seem to show the holster and belt as a fixed item Welcome comments

It may need a touch of conditioner and about 5 gallons of NFO just to start