kgg

It maybe just the angle of the photos but to me it looks like your machines stitch length is not consistent even on the straight runs. I would first remove the top thread from the needle then take a piece of paper and do a straight run of 12 stitches with the motor, measure the distance between each hole and then do a straight run of 12 stitches by hand wheeling them through, once again measure the distance between each hole. All the holes whether they are made by using the motor or by hand should be the same. If the stitch length is a little iffy it may explain why the tension problem on the bottom. kgg

I am not sure how many bells and whistles the Durkopp had or has but if it has /had a panel for functions I would be very vary of accessibility to and the cost of them down the road. I would give serious consideration to a cylinder bed (new or used) machine with a flat bed attachment it may give you the best of both worlds. I would also go visit a dealer or dealers with samples who are knowledgeable with setting up a machine for your leather work needs. Buy once, cry once. kgg

A really nice job on the holster. kgg

I agree with bikermutt07. Holster type thickness/thread/toughness is going to require a completely different machine then what would be required to do a wallet. No one machine is going to be able to give or be able to give constant results over a large range of materials / thickness / toughness, you will be forever fiddling with changing threads, needles, tensions, feet, binders, etc. I think you need to consider multiple machines, if the budget allows, and set them up to do the task that they do best. That way once they are tuned in every time you work them it should/will give constant results. Less hassle, more enjoyment, more productive. kgg

I agree with chrisash that it would make a nice basic straight stitch machine without all the bells and whistles for someone to get their feet wet. All it probably would need is some good oiling, a fresh needle and some thread. If your wife fines she doesn't like sewing or after she gets more self confident / experienced then sell it. Better to learn the basics on an inexpensive, forgiving machine first rather then spend a lot of dollars up front only to find you don't have the temperament/patience or whatever to get the most use out of the machine. kgg

You can still get new Mini Brute's from Sailmaker's Supply new for $648 US, which seems a bit high to me and really don't look much different then most of the available portable walking foot machines. Similar new machines in Canada run about $600 Canadian. kgg

I only have two suggestions about your site. Need an "About Us" tell a little story highlighting the main stuff like location (close to the beautiful/historic ...), sole owner/operator, experience those types of things and more "Contact" info where you are located so that people can easily see you are in the US, phone number, hours of operation. All the above due have their pros and cons. kgg

If I remember correctly someone had a Techsew 1460 with a similar problem and Ron at Techsew got him fixed up. kgg

Contact the company you purchased the machine from. It looks like it was dropped hard to go through the packing and create holes in the plywood. kgg

I like your glue pot, simple and effective. All you need to do now is get the cost of the top down. Wow what a difference between the Amazon US and Canadian sites for the same simple item. That is why some of us Canadians who live close to the border (1/2 hour drive) have a American address for companies who won't ship to Canada and for companies who offer free shipping within the US. It wouldn't be feasible for one small purchase but on the larger or multi items it can save you a lot. kgg

I would pass on the offered domestic portable machines. Yes all three can on occasion get you out of a bind but that would be it. You can even get a walking foot thingie for some of them. I think going to a domestic and trying to make it work will be at best a frustrating venture. I do agree that RJLamie does need a different machine for light weight leather work and machines being offered are what someone has in their store but neither are going to be suitable for a number of reasons (thread limitations / reliability / durability / feed mechanism). If budget or space are a concern I do agree with chrisash that a low cost portable walking foot machine capable of using the 135 X 16 needles would be better suited for light industrial use. For the price of a Sailrite portable walking foot you could probably get a new clone industrial walking foot machine / table/ servo motor but for under $500 new there are many other options available like a Consew CP206R, Reliable Baracuda, Techsew 611 to name a few. Then there is of course the used market. The minimum requirement I think would be that the machine be a walking foot. kgg

Is this a new machine to you or a recent problem? I would unthread everything both top thread and bobbin. Check that the needle is installed correctly with the scarf in the right direction and fully seated. Reinstall top thread checking thread removal from the spool, tension / paths from the spool to eye of the needle. The needle must have the long groove on the left and threaded from left to right. Then thread a different fresh bobbin checking for correct thread tension and correct direction of how the thread is being removed from the bobbin in the bobbin holder. Then I would hand wheel it through a dozen cycles with fabric under the foot while holding both threads for the first couple of stitches. kgg

Assuming that both machines are producing good stitches and in roughly the same condition I would base my decision on which one has the most repair parts readily available and at reasonable prices. I do know that the cobbler in Perth, Ontario a couple of months ago was getting rid of his Adler patcher's for $500 Canadian each due to the lack of both repair and parts support. kgg

Different continents and different climates have different construction needs. I am curious as to why you are going to paint the pressure treated timber the 2x4's and 2x6's which may in fact cause moisture to be retained in the timber. Over here the newer methods of pressure treatment of timber does not go to the core of the timber, just a mild penetration so the majority of the timber is still natural which will still have moisture. My thought process would be that painting the whole exterior of the timber you may prevent the core moisture from escaping and it would rot from within. You also mentioned that you are planning on joist hanging the 2x 6 floor joists and the plans show their attachment to a 2x 4 bottom plate and the 4x6 sill plate. Why not just place 3/4" threaded bolts in the centre of the 12" x12" concrete foundation spaced every couple of feet when pouring and leave them protruding about 6" above the top of the concrete foundation. Then the next day when the concrete is solid enough install your damp proof membrane then bolt two 2"x6" on their flat all the way around on top of the concrete. Usually done so the second layer of 2"x6" joist plate overlaps the seams particularly in the corners left by the first layer of joist plate. The 2"x6" floor joists would then rest on the joist plates extending to the outside edge of the joist plate and then toe nailed to the double 2"x6" joist plate. This would be a lot less work, increase head room (very slightly) and provide a structurally stronger floor. Then deck over and install the walls on top of the floor. Depending on the load of what you are putting in there you may need to go with a 12" joist spacing or larger joists. I am assuming you are planning on using 5/8" or 3/4" tongue and groove plywood decking / floor. Plywood would be stronger structurally, smoother surface and wear better. I would still consider putting down a vapour barrier over your sand and stone in the centre of your foundation to help prevent ground moisture from getting to the floor. kgg

I have a couple of suggestions on your construction. In Ontario what is starting to become more common home construction is called wrap and strap. Starting from the interior of the building: 1/2" gyproc (just substitute 1/2" OSB for your needs), super 6 vapour barrier (vapour barrier needs to be on the winter warm side), 2x4 horizontal studs spaced 16" up from the floor to ceiling, 2x6 vertical studs with cavity between the vertical studs insulated, exterior OSB, 2" of rigid insulation and then the siding. The advantage of the wrap and strap for your needs would be the horizontal studding, it would offer better structural strength for hanging stuff off the walls and for routing electrical / water lines in the walls. In your floor I would recommend rigid insulation to keep the cold and dampness from coming up through the floor. However an insulated concrete slab-on-grade would be much more structurally sound and warmer (10" compacted crushed stone, two layers of 2" rigid one going north to south and the other east to west then concrete). As far as the roof goes you should put insulation and vapour in to keep the summer heat and winter cold out. The more you can get in there correctly will make a huge difference which may affect your roof design. I don't personally like blown in foam insulation as if it is not done properly it will not cure properly and the place will smell like rotten fish as it off gases. kgg

Got them off Kijiji there were 50 - 1 lb rolls individually factory sealed from someone who bought a shop and didn't need / want them. So since I was looking to replace the bonded nylon with something that would stand up better I gave it a try. For the price not much to lose if it didn't work. kgg

I like bonded polyester for a couple of reasons. It comes off the spool / bobbin more evenly and stands up to bleach much better then bonded nylon did. My stuff is mostly dog related items of thick multi layered, multi type material that does push the limit of what I can stuff under the foot of my machine (Juki 1541s). The thread has to be able to withstand multiple washing/disinfecting/drying cycles (50 -60) in a eight week period. I would be lucky to get one 8 week cycle period out of bonded nylon before some items would need thread repair or replacement. Changing to Coates Dabond bonded polyester thread has significantly reduced thread fraying / failure and now items get at least 3 eight week cycle periods before they need thread repair or replacement. Just my experience. kgg

It is good to be little cautious and maybe with a touch of paranoia thrown in when making a large investment of money into a machine or machines. Don't forget to bring some of the material and thread in the sizes you want to work with along with you to those dealers. By doing that there will be a fair comparison between machines. Some machines don't work as well with a particular material thickness / toughness, type or thread size then others do. kgg

Work tables which are comfortable to work at vary from person to person depending on the task at hand and their height. What I have found to be a comfortable height of the top of the work surface is the measurement to the floor as measured from the top of my belt buckle to the floor wearing the footwear that I normally wear. Some people even through they my be the same height one person my have shorter or longer legs. My table would be to high for my wife (5'-4" stretched) too comfortably stand and work at while it would be to low for my son (6'-1"). My work table is normally 48" x 48" with two 8" wide sides that are hinged to the main table that I can raise to extend the width out to 64" when needed. At present my total area for my stuff (materials/ equipment) is a 10' x 12' spare room. kgg

Very nice job of showing its abilities. Did you decide on a sewing machine? kgg

That is great news. kgg

Just give them a call and see how that goes. I spoke with them a while back about some edge binding material but was able to use some scrap ripstop instead that I had around. I haven't purchased from them yet but I am going to need some V92 bonded polyester in the near future but for now I have plenty of #69 (bonded polyester) and #138 (bonded nylon). I prefer the bonded polyester over the bonded nylon. kgg

You may want to try Cansew for the thread they are also in Montreal. I can understand you not wanting to drive in Montreal. I hate it every time I have to go there or through there especially with an Ontario plated vehicle. kgg

I also can only see two pictures. Have you thought of using really thin HDPE as reinforcement. The drawback with rigid reinforcement that I would be concerned about is that would need to be attached to the leather, sewn or glued, and as the leather ages it probably would stretch with use. That may lead to wear through from the inside. kgg

Bill this youtube video maybe of some help. As far as adjusting bobbin tension I think there is a screw on the side of the bobbin case holder around the five o'clock position that you screw in to add bobbin tension or out for less tension, make small adjustments like 1/16 of a turn. From an engineering point of view all sewing machines are intriguing marvels of machinery that basicly haven't changed in the last hundred years. Particularly when come to think of how everything has to be in perfect sink to lock together two simple pieces of thread to form a simple tough stitch to attach pieces of material together. What would be a nice improvement to sewing machine engineering wouldn't be more efficient motors, more computer controls or stitches but the elimination of having too wind bobbins and have the bobbin thread come off a large thread spool from underneath the machine. kgg