kgg

To change the amount of feed you will need to change the position on the feed drive rod. Check out the discussion in the topic "Adjusting the walking foot height" on the site it should give you the idea. It is sort of described in section 12 of the manual bit you get a better idea from the discussion. kgg

I suggest that you use V92 thread as a good stating point to get your machine stitching correctly. With older machines the tolerance get a little off as parts wear. A new machine may do V207 all day long but as it ages there may be problems. Some machines handle V207 on top and bottom but work better with a smaller bobbin thread size. Type of tanning veg vs chrome as well as the thickness will play a role. To get it forming a stitch correctly start with a thick / multi layers of fabric as your test pieces. kgg

Right off the bat Vinymo #5 thread is .53mm (www.etsy.com/listing/708202195/vinymo-mbt-5-053mm-100m-spool-japanese) which is V207 plus a bit in size and would probably need a #25 needle. Check the manual and see what is the largest needle, I think it is a #24 max and thread Vinymo #5 thread maybe to much for the machine. A good chart for the right size needles and thread size you can find at www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html I would suggest getting some V92 thread and trying it since your thread is at or beyond the machines capacity.

Forgot to ask how you are installing the bobbin? When you pull on the bobbin thread does the bobbin spin clockwise or counter clockwise. Have got the proper tension on the bobbin thread by doing the drop test? kgg

Depending on the size of thread and how many holes you have threaded through before the tension discs will affect the tension of the top thread. I usually don't thread through the two holes in the top pin just after the thread spool and only two of the four holes in the thread holder. My experience is the larger the the thread the less holes I use before the main tensioner. The amount of needle deflection is going to depend on the size of thread, the needle size, how hard you are pulling and if the presser foot is in the up position and has released the the tension discs. kgg

According to the manuals on the Supersew and Consew sites which list the manual for the 206RB-1 one is listed in the parts list. That said making sure all the wicks are always oiled you should be ok otherwise bad things will eventually happen to those parts if left to go dry. kgg

Interesting read. kgg

After you make the adjustments post a video so we can see the difference a few adjustments can make. kgg

Yep the feet are not lifting much. I think your machine is the same as the Rex and Chandler machines. If you do a youtube search for ( Rex 26-188 Nakajima TDUN-62 TDU-N62 Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine ) in the written description part above the comments section of the post there is a link to the manual and on page 4 it describes how to adjust the presser foot lift. kgg

I would check your manual. If you didn't get one call your dealer and they should be able to walk you through the process. kgg

Since you are thinking on spending the money on a new machine why not make a road trip to a Juki dealer with some of your light stuff and thread (in the size you are planning on using). That way you can see what model and type ( flatbed or cylinder ) of machine would work best. They may also have a good used one. Remember buy once, cry once. kgg

I understand that that models max rating is for V69 thread with a 110 needle. The 120 needle is for V92 thread which for most machines will work but you are going above the recommend max needle size and max. thread size. I think most machines can go one size up from the recommend thread / needle size with a few minor adjustments but the 140 needle is for V138 thread. You may run into clearance problems between the hook and needle which could affect stitching, broken needles, etc. Someone else maybe able to advise if it is possible increase the clearance and how. kgg

Since there are so many classes and sub class of the Pfaff machines it would be nice to know which Pfaff you have. To handle 160 needle I think your machine has to be at least a model C in a H2, H3 or H4 with the H1 only being able to go to 110 needle. kgg

Nice, well built machine but a 1541 would be a better choice. The price is good as new one would be in the $1400 US price range. The 1182 is not a compound feed machine the material is feed by the movement of the outside and inside portion of the presser foot as well as the feed dog. If I am not mistaken it does not have a safety clutch. It can handle up to V138 thread and probably do a nice job on wallet type work. I guess it is going to come down to what thickness of leather you are planing on using it for. kgg

Nice to hear. kgg

I would suggest just supplying the genuine bobbin or other items for the machine whoever the manufacturer is. When someone is buying a new machine, north of $1000, the cost difference between the clone bobbin and the genuine bobbin should be of no real dollar concern to the buyer. It shouldn't make or break a sale. The buyer, particularly new owners, are relying on the seller of the machine to provide proper functioning items. It must be frustrating for the seller of the machine as well as the buyer having to replace / return items due to quality control issues beyond the sellers control. kgg

Stupid question, which way does the thread come off the bobbin. If I am not mistaken in your Pffaf 335 the thread comes off the bobbin clockwise like a domestic machine rather then counter clockwise. Some machines don't really care but others if the bobbin is inserted incorrectly thread slack can occur resulting in poor stitching. kgg

I am not familiar with the bobbin case of your machine but I would check and see if there is any bits of material in the case also if the case is supposed to have a backlash spring it is working ok. I suspect that the odd loops have more to do with tension problems then anything else.

Sounds as through you need to back off the bobbin tension as the thicker leather is creating more resistance on the bottom thread which means you have to have more top tension to pull the bobbin thread into the leather. If possible could you post a couple of pictures of your top thread path from the thread spool to the needle. kgg

If this is a new Juki from a Juki dealer call them and ask for the proper replacements. When I purchased my Juki 1541s from a dealer I purchased an additional dozen bobbins amongst other items. All of which were identical to the ones that came with the machine, no problems with any of them not fitting properly on the winder or in bobbin holder. I suspect the ones you got were after market replacements. Others have stated maybe ok, maybe work but you shouldn't have to do work arounds to get them functioning on a new machine. It is the small stuff that drives you crazy. kgg

Exactly what I was trying to get at RockyAussie. Depending on the material, condition of the machine, type of machine (drop feed vs compound feed or flatbed vs cylinder), needle / thread, presser foot tension are are factors which can lead to material being are sucked in on the sides between the plate and feed dog or pushed down in the needle hole. Materials like muslin, stretchy material like micro fibre or elastic, even Sherpa if it isn't hard back can get sucked in. Depending on the project / thickness / material a good old fashion Singer 15 will do a much nicer job then my compound feed Juki. kgg

I think the easier way would to use a flatbed attachment for your cylinder Singer or just use an old domestic Singer. I would also place a sheet or two of regular paper on the feed dog side of what you are sewing so either the elastic or the hook material doesn't get sucked down or stretched by the feed dog. When finished just tear the paper off. As far as the sewing the hook and elastic together I would sew the edges of the hook and elastic together then fold over to hid the first seam and sew again to flatten and strengthen. Don't forget the paper on the feed dog side. It would be nice if you had a photo of what you are trying to accomplish as other methods maybe more suitable. kgg

There are a lot of factors that can go into getting a projects surface smooth, without having to do a lot of after printing touch-ups. Most of what you print is going to be for personal use and surface appearance really doesn't manner as long as it is functional and presentable. My list of the factors affecting surface appearance so it acceptable and I am sure there are more that can be added are: Experience and design software used, I like Fusion 360 but there are many others available. Your approach when designing the project. I still like the old school way of designing, putting my initial design thoughts to paper. Whereas my son just does it within the software. Whatever works best for you. Using 3d software and printings really will cause you to think of things in a different manner. Slicer software and the settings, which sometimes needs to modified depending on the project and filament being used. The quality of the 3d printer and the care taken in setting the unit up. Buy a decent machine within your budget as the prices verses capabilities are getting cheaper every year. I chose the Prusa i3 mk3 which was a kit and a royal pain to put together. Took about ten to twelve hours to assemble. Time consuming along with the manual having some errors coupled with some pictures being incorrect. I figure within the next couple of years a metal 3d printer will be almost affordable as new / more manufacturers come online. The bed temperature. The type and size of the nozzle. The type and quality of filament, just like sewing thread, they are not all equal. Even the colour of the filament can affect the final look as some colours show small imperfections and layering more then others. Drafts, ambient temperature and humidity can be major factors that can affect the printing. Just what I have found so far. kgg

Really nice precision work. kgg

Another problem area to check is the last thread guide right before the needle. Check and see if there is not a small burr or a groove rubbed into the inside of the hole. Small thread could be affected more then larger diameter thread. kgg