kgg

I do own a Juki 1541S and they are a good machine. They are rated for V138 top and in the bobbin but probably could take V207 at least as a top thread. However my machine hates thin stuff. I think it would easily handle the 12 oz which is about 1/4" thick but it will depend on how tough the leather is. Any pictures?? The price is a hard one to determine, depends on condition, clutch or servo motor and prices in your area. A new one would be about $1800 US while a clone contender would be a new Consew 206RB-5. kgg

The pictures do look good but buying equipment off Ebay particularly in that price range for me would be just too risky. Since there is a Juki repair shop close to you I would first check and see if they have a refurnished machine like the Juki LS 1341 or an older LS 341. That way you eliminate potential shipping damage problems, spams, worn out, problems, etc. They may also have similar class new or used clones available. Also you would be able to test drive one with what you want to sew before buying. kgg

I would put the Juki DSC 245 in the 335 class machine capable of handling V92 thread with a 135x17 #20 needle, the Juki LS 1341 would do 10mm but I think would be at or near max and can handle V138 with a 135x17 #24 needle while the 441 would easily handle 10 mm can handle V92 to V415 with a 794 needle, this is what the clones have copied for the thick stuff. just my take, kgg

My suggestions would be: 1) If the machine came with 135 x17 did you make the necessary adjustments to allow you to change back too the original 134 needles. If not I would use what the machine came with or make the necessary adjustments. 2) Using a #20 needle in my opinion is too small for V138 thread and the loop that the hook catches may not be formed properly so you get skipped stitches. 3) Use either V138 thread or V92 thread for both top and bobbin thread until you figure out where the problem is then venture into mixing thread sizes. I would suggest starting with V92 top and in the bobbin. 4) For tarp type sewing getting the knot to be pulled up you will need multiple layers, I would probably try folding the tarp up until you get a 1/4" of material and see what happens. A quick test would be try a say three or four layers of denim material and see what it does, I know my Juki 1541 S hates thin stuff so I use another machine to cover off thin stuff. 5) The rat nest on the bottom indicates to me too low a top tension which maybe caused by top the routing. If I see correctly, you have the top thread going straight through the bottom hole of the top thread pin. I suggest you try going into the top hole half wrap around the the pin and out the third hole. The more holes used will also increase the top thread tension. 6) The amount of bobbin thread tension and the direction the bobbin spins off thread should be rechecked. 7) A couple of closeups of how you have threaded through the top thread tensions may also help. 8) I would suggest taking a look at the video Just some things to try, kgg

I have this style of roller presser feet which are new old stock. I bought all the new folders, binders etc from a company that had closed their doors and I'm still cataloging. What these fit I am not sure just yet. I have about 40 of these. Photo's: i) roll1 has a small wheel and has a square mount rather then a round mount. ii) roll2 has a large wheel and has a square mount rather then a round mount. iii) roll3 is the two side by side iv) roll4 shows the spring lock that locks the wheel down when the unit is mounted in place.

I have a batch of new complete roller feet in two different wheel sizes. I will get some pictures latter today and see if they would work for you. kgg

Yes something in the 441 class maybe similar to the Cowboy CB 3500 but... If you are doing 15mm regularly you will have to dumb the machine down to do the thin stuff. This is going to be frustrating and time consuming. You would be better off with two machines, one setup for the thinner and one setup for the thicker. kgg

I would rent a 4 1/2 or 5 " concrete hole saw and drill a new hole in the concrete a few inches away from the existing main house sewer drain pipe. When the old pipe is cut free you can simply cut out or knock out the old one and properly fill the hole in. I had to do that a few years ago. The concrete hole saw worked really well. just a thought, kgg

The machine was a clone sold by the Michel Simard ltd. the nameplate may also say MSM which was a division of Michel Simard ltd. They just recently closed their doors selling through auction all their new (Alder / PFAFF / Global ) and used machines, new and used hot / clicker presses to name a few items in their Montreal, QC and Cambridge locations. So parts are going to be near impossible or easily too get for their clone equipment. There was really no good buys to be had as a lot of machines particularly the used stuff went for close too or above retail. I guess people forgot to add the 30 percent to what their bid amount was to get the real amount they had to pay. Two examples: Juki 563 with table and clutch motor went for just over $1500 when you add in the 30 percent someone paid $2000. PFAFF 1245 with table and clutch motor went for just over $1000 when you add in the 30 percent someone paid over $1350. I just sold my PFAFF 1245 with table and clutch motor in decent working condition for $500. kgg

The prices in BC seems to be way too high for used machines (clone or brand name) as compared to Ontario. Juki LU-563 can be had for about $800 CA, PFAFF 1245 for about $500 CAD. I would check with a couple of Ontario Dealers and see what they can offer. I know some people have purchased used brand name Juki machines and had them shipped out west cheaper rather then buying local. You could probably get a new clone out of Ontario say a KOBE DNU 1541 S (one class notch up from the Chikon) or a KOBE LS-1341 (cylinder bed similar to the Techsew 2750) for about that price. kgg

What is the approximate asking price of these clone machines? This may also help with other suggestions. kgg

Based just on the pictures, I would probably choose the Chikon as well as it looks like it has a servo motor and needle positioner. kgg

I should have done this earlier so here are the two pdf's that I have. LS-246-4_P-1.pdf LS-246-4+Instruction+Manual.pdf

Thanks for the info I did get a copy of the parts list and instruction manual after a little more digging. kgg

I looked at your webpage, photo's and descriptions. Your "Jojmojo " bio says you are in Texas.This what I took again from your website. You designed the sneakers, the sneakers will be made in Italy if you get 7 orders, there are seven comments on the craftsmanship, the sneaker is Italian canvas with Italian leather highlights and they cost $194 US with free shipping. There is no information about yourself, the manufacturer or what sets you apart from the other sneaker manufacturers. The sentence with "Minnie ways I think this is mine relamine release one of them" I am having difficulty understanding what your trying to say. kgg

You work is excellent. Not my cup of tea but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. kgg

Personally I won't try it. The 3d printers are additive made to build a project from the plate up. Maybe a plotter would be a better choice. A couple of problems I can see is getting the leather too firmly stay in place which would be difficult, variations in the thickness of the leather and the stress of cutting probably would create havoc on the thin belts. I watched a video out of Germany where a guy cut some vinyl (which is a constant thickness and very thin) "Convert 3D printer to yinyl cutter / plotter || Anet a8 " (youtube.com/watch?v=JIQ0U3CrsVQ). Just my opinion, best of luck, kgg

Anytime. kgg

Totally Agree. The only good thing that ever came out of China was gun powder. The rest not so much. kgg

Yes, they do make skiving tables with a vacuum system. Essentially the exhaust for the waste material which normal falls down a chute is replaced with a tube that a exhaust vacuum removes the waste material into a container or bag. I think installing a exhaust fan something like a high CFM inline hot air duct fan connected to a 4" tube would probably work just a well but a lot quieter then a vacuum cleaner or shop vac. Something like " https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Inline-Booster-Extreme-Grounded/dp/B01C82SYZ0/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=Inline+Duct+Fan&qid=1628524596&sr=8-6 " kgg

To me it looks like a Singer 128k or 99k. But I am leaning towards a 128 (for book Binding). kgg

According to ISMACs the serial number with no letter prefix dates the machine to 1892. http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-no-prefix-serial-numbers.html kgg

I think sewing firefighter helmet shields is going to be beyond the ability of this machine and you would need a Juki 441 class machine to do that type of work. I am going to assume the owner isn't the original owner and doesn't have the manual to determine the model. If this is a high speed machine extra care is going to be needed for oiling internal parts. Remember no one machine is going to be able to cover all those bases properly. kgg

It is definitely not a Juki 1541. I think it is very similar to the Juki LU 2210 series. If it is a LU 2210 series it is a high speed machine (3500 stitches per minute) using 134 x 35R with a max needle size of #23 (160) and a max size thread of V138 top and in the bobbin. This would be about 3.6 mm or 9/64" thick material. Does the serial number look like: LU2212WASZ70A this type of numbers will tell you what it is. How thick do you want to sew? kgg

The filament you are using has a good reputation for a quality product. We have on occasion used PETG but use a lot of PLA+ and really I cant give specifics other then we hate the damn stuff. PLA is stronger but less flexible then PETG (snaps versus bending). It either won't want to stick (when too cool) or stick like S to a blanket when to hot and needs hairspray as a release agent. This is how we dialed in our printers which may or may not help you with your setup. 1) Design a 2" (50mm) x2" (50mm) by one line height cad object. Then slice it do the bed so there are squares with about 1 inch gaps between them. 2) Dial in Z at temp we run (for example we run 240 to 250c for 3d850 and 250 to 260 for 3d870 w/ bed at 70c. To put this in perspective 3d850 typically is run at 230 and 60. Hotter is better, right up until it burns the plastic. The trick is to stay on the lower this side of burning. The hotter it is the better, as it will want to run together and make for stronger bonds between the layers/lines. w/ zero fan for first 5 layers (further allowing the lines to blend together). 2a) Lower head until you start to see ripples in the top of a square (this means too much pressure and its flow is UPWARD). Then back off by 50 microns for next square. Repeat until it is what you like. 3) Then we re-slice with 105 initial line width and first layer extrusion at 110. We then increase first layer extrusion until it starts to ripple. IF bottom is nearly perfectly smooth we back of z height until it is no longer smooth... and then play with extrusion multiplier vs z height. This will vary greatly from bed to bed and machine to machine. One of ours runs at -1.505 w/ 110% the other is -.985 w/ 130 percent. Or did until those plates wore out and we are now back to square one and have to start again. 4) We then dial in elephant foot compensation - typically "-.4" range so that walls are straight. Over the next 50 or so prints we then dial it in until its perfect. Your Celtic knot bottom layers looks good but you will never get perfect bottoms. Jerk and acceleration gets reset when it has to turn or start a line. This faster/slower/faster pattern builds up pressure in the nozzle which causes random bursts of plastic. You want it to start a line and end it slightly inside a wall so that any extra bursts of goop just makes the wall stronger. We run at 850/850 for jerk and acceleration. We run walls and infill (at 98 to 99 percent to allow any small ripples to fill up the micro gaps at the same speed - 100. So that pressure is constant. We run first layer at 50. constant speed means constant pressure which gives you a better chance of dialing in the 'perfect' first layer and every other layer. Hope the info makes sense, kgg