MikeRock

In the book the rivet heads are distinct. I had to put on a second pair of reading glasses to see them clearly, but they are there. I am still puzzling over the inside. It looks like the splash from the tube is there, but very finely divided. I question how much holding power that minor bit of expansion has. I can't resolve a washer on the inside no matter how hard I try. Like putting a rack on a fat doe..... just wishful thinking. Yet, it is obvious, the loops are still there 140 years later... I'd love to talk to the collection owner and get first hand impressions of this belt. God bless

I'd like to see the other side of the knife on the far right. It has a familiar shape to it. If it is a file, it is a 'feather' file for sharpening Japanese pull type saws. If it has a set of coarse file teeth on only the opposite side it might be for working horn. I have one from the mid 1700's. At a rendezvous there was a 'lant horn' maker who showed me how it worked. He heated the cut open horn, pressed it flat, then filed both sides. He made it nice and thin. When in a candle lantern it provided a nice diffuse glow. If you can photograph that opposite side we might find something cool.

Sounds like a clicker die or custom punch is in order, but you knew that. You guys getting hit by a big blizzard? BBC just mentioned it. God bless

What are the dimensions? Round hole punch, followed by slot punch (will have rounded ends), then two opposing cuts with strap end punch? I wonder what it would cost to make two dedicated punches? If you are sanding or grinding to finish, would just a single round punch make the outside, then grind it down?

Skip, are you on OldTools? Under what name? God bless

The leather and stitching is identical to mine, so I'd say it was made by the company. You have to know what you are doing before you take the first step off the ground. Are you climbing a tree with pole gaffs, or vice/vise versa? I had a few scars on my chest before a timber guy read me in on the gaffs and how to set them in the bark to get to real wood. Copy what you have, rivets and all. Waivers are nice to have. Get one! If you can do a saddle or good rivet work you should not be afraid if this. Those haven't seen a tree in thirty years or so..... God bless

Well, I just got jolted back to reality. W.B. Place in Hartford, WI used to be THE place to get deer, elk and similar hides tanned. They had an awesome line of clothing made from these hunted hides. Well, Tasman bought them out and closed the tanning to hunters. They make clothing and purses now. Check out Tasman, their listing had loads of deer hides. I had friends in Hartford and every visit over there found me with new deerhide gloves, usually five pair. Friend died and now the tannery is gone..... https://www.tasmanusa.com/deerskin-leather-gallery

https://www.cochiseleather.com/leather-wrist-cuffs.aspx https://oldtradingpost.com/leather-cuffs-c-408_421_97/ I've got a couple original sets. Your extension sure fills the bill. I've spent too much time in the ditch with gas and water lines. Did a lot of repair work after the Rapid City Flood, burned up a bunch of Wrangler shirts and Carhartt jackets.

Chris, $45 or maybe an interlibrary loan will get you this. Great book. I asked about a movie holster and folks here led me to this book, among others. It has the information you need. Packing Iron: Gunleather of the Frontier West by Richard C. Rattenbury Western gunleather is an icon of American frontier lore. Packing Iron celebrates the artistry and innovation of the craftsmen who designed the gun rigs of the old time cowboys, troopers, lawmen, and Hollywood heroes. This unique art form is fully described and richly illuatrated with more than 300 exciting color photographs and nearly 100 rare historic images. In the pages of Packing Iron you will discover gunleather produced by historic government arsenals, along with the famed frontier craftsmen like Collins, Meanea, Gallatin, and Heiser.

I can copy the pages you need. I see a used copy for ONLY $318......wowsers. Drop me an email. mikerock at mhtc.net. God bless

Awesome! Love this place!! God bless

He replied that he does not do rolls. God bless

I just emailed to ask about roll stamps.

Alex has a good site. Long time loading the gallery, so I'll ask, does he make roll stamps yet? God bless

Thanks. That was the puzzling part, no slug clearance for punched pieces. Since the edges 'look' designed to cut, I am checking out old patents and other crafts/trades. Any lettering at all on the boxes would help, but since you don't have access, that shall remain a mystery for now. God bless

Are those hemispherical holes in the ends of the punches? God bless

A lot of useful capacitor information is here: https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Motor_Capacitor_Selection.php#CapCatalogs

The barn Nisse care for the animals year round when we are away. My wife sent this from her home in Norway after she retired and returned. With six drafts and two saddle horses she thought she'd better send an instruction manual for Nisse. She passed away 24 Oktober and we had just talked about this long ago Christmas card, so it is special to me. Merry CHRISTmas to all and a healthy new year. God bless.

That looks good enough to eat! Say, how about cutting a big 'bite' out of one edge of the coaster.....like an eclipsed moon.... that would get the recipient thinking. A bit to much eggnog and he might try another bite! God bless

Thanks! That particular book has great measurements for most horse harness. His 'folksy' style wore a tad thin after about ten readings, but he darn sure gets the points across and gives almost a stitch by stitch procedure. God bless, and a Merry CHRISTmas to you. Mike

Making Harness A Step-by-Step Guide. Driving - Farming - Mule - Single & Team - Pony - Cob - Horses - Draft Lewis G. Martin and Daniel S. Preston. From Kayo Fraser at Wild Horse Books. 255 N Boulder Road, Deer Lodge, MT 59722 Email books@wildhorsebooks.com Kayo Fraser - 406-846-3686 Mountain Time I'm putting in a plug for Kayo as she is a friend. God bless

Dwight, I'd add one thing. After cutting off, smack it once, to enlarge the shank. Then begin the peening and then the 'purty' smack. Sometimes when doing the peening around the top of the fresh cut the rivet might loosen a bit. That's why the initial smack. God bless Mike

Any idea how long this endures the ravages of every day life? If the edge gets scuffed, would one just repolish the surface and be at least part way back to this gorgeous finish? Looks like a miracle in a jar. God bless

If you can figure out how to do that on human skin you could put the tattoo industry out of business!!