tsunkasapa

Exactly. I just pull as much thread as I can span, about 5 1/2-6 ft. trying to drag all that thread will just make you old and crazy.

Rub a little bees wax on the punch for lube.

Just go around with your dividers. Or lay a ruler along and use a scratch awl. No real need for a groove.

I would sew around your inlays and space them further apart there is not a lot of 'structural material' between the cutouts.

The edge needs to be sharp, but the long, POLISHED taper is vitally important to get the job done easily.

12B40 Delta Co. 9th Eng Bn Aschaffenburg, Germany 1973-75

Greetings from one 12Bravo to another. I don't think there's any need to beyond 14-1600. Anything beyond that and you're just going through the motions and wasting time and effort. It all about maintaining a constant angle. And the proper angle for the particular tool. I sharpen maybe once a year, year and a half. Other than that I strop EVERY time I pick up a blade, and EVERY time I'm done with it. And sometimes part way through a large project. For my round knives I like a long, flat angle.

Common 'rubber cement' can also be used as a contact cement. Available at almost any store.

I had a sled dog like that. LOVED to roll in nasty, stinky stuff. And screamed like she was being skinned when I washed her. A neighbor actually came up the block to make sure she wasn't dying.

It has been back up for months.

Nice job! Lots of different skills come together in one project.

The 'hardware store' awl IS a scratch awl, but is probably much bigger than you need for leather work. You can still use it, but a smaller version might be less cumbersome. I think my biggest one is 3 1/2 or 4 inches long.

I'm thinking I'll stay with the real thing. I feel no need to "appease this growing population". Here in cattle country, they mostly stay up on campus. In a county that has more cattle than humans, their voices just don't get listened to.

I only use linen or hemp, doesn't do any good to burn it.

Welcome from the PNW.

Very nice! Enjoy your new machine.

Scratch awl, sometimes a pencil. NEVER ink.

He hasn't been on in 6 months, don't worry about it.

Soap will not get dye out of thread.

That would be a lady in Australia that hasn't been on here for 2 1/2 years.

Here is a link to just one of many styles. Amazon.com: SeedBeadExplosion Blank Bolo Tie Round Slides Pack of 10 Silvertone 16mm : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

Since I only hand sew, I can only tell what I read here concerning machines and waxed thread. And that is, that only a specific type of machine can do that. And your 'Chinese patcher' is not it. One of our machine experts can tell you what type you need for that.

Yes, I dilute to achieve the tone/shade that I want. I have no idea what the actual 'reducer' is, but I have used both denatured and isopropyl alcohol and have had no issues. I buy 99% isopropyl by the gallon. Last I saw, it was going about $32/gal at my local farm store.

I'm old school, and as such, I don't use ANY of the new water based ANYTHING. That being said, I have never had any of my parts 'shrink' from dying with spirit dyes. I understand that there are issues ordering these, but I think I'd put up with that rather than use a product that is giving unsatisfactory results. I'll save the water for making coffee and beer.