tsunkasapa

They don't teach ANYTHING useful/practical anymore.

Nice! Much more adventurous than my trip to Anchorage. But the Iditarod WAS pretty cool.

I lay my curves out with dividers and French Curves.

I personally don't use edge paint at all, so I have no experience with its durability. But I have extensive experience with dogs. It will depend entirely on the dog. A house poodle, I don't think there would be a problem. But hunting dogs, my sled dogs, any active, outdoor dog is going to be hard on collars. But I also think most owners are aware of that. Even my dachshund goes through a collar every 1 1/2-2 years.

Ohio Travel Bag has them. Snap Fasteners and Magnetic Snaps | Ohio Travel Bag

Until 10 years ago I still had 8 tracks and a player.

Nicely done. The traditional barn is, sadly, disappearing from the landscape. Pole barns just aren't the same.

Here is a link to a very thorough discussion about just that question. Are all cheap strap cutters created equal? - Getting Started - Leatherworker.net

Looking good. Nice job on your basketweave.

I use 3 and 5 ply linen, or hemp, exclusively. I HATE synthetic thread. I do wax the thread. As to needle size, I don't pay any attention. What ever EYE I can get the thread through. I really believe you are over thinking this. It's NOT rocket science.

I use Fiebing's Pro Resist. I'm not sure that super sheen is resistant enough, but I don't use it at all. If you are getting good 'resistance', you shouldn't get much darkening of your project, but only in the cuts and depressions. It may be that you need to do 2 or 3 coats to get the resistance you need. Also, apply the antique to the whole project, to ensure consistent coloring.

The needle's sole job is to lead the thread through the leather. It is not a handle to drag the thread around with. As soon as the thread clears the leather, I grasp the thread and pull. I have never had a needle 'slide off'. YMMV

Yes, it is handbag hardware. Closures, feet, and such.

Very nice. As stated, it will hold up for ever.

All whole LOT more information would be helpful.

What he said!

At Rendezvous, when I have my tables out, I often get kids that don't have quite enough to purchase something. Usually I will make them a deal, but that depends on the kid. Some are just obnoxious brats. Them I can ignore.

Remove the zinc by soaking in white vinegar until the bolts look grey, and no more bubbles form. But they are STILL steel and can stain the leather.

That glue has probably been outlawed for 29 1/2 years.

I might have to get one for linings. A lot of those blemishes don't matter inside a holster.

I would ensure that you have good air circulation around and over your leather. And I would be very leery about storing it rolled. A closet or cupboard with a dehumidifier is another option. Authentic Made in the USA Golden Rod Dehumidifiers In 4 Sizes (safeandlockstore.com)

It depends a lot on how humid your local climate is. And is it a heated basement. Where I live, humidity is a myth, so I have no mold/mildew issues. On the other side of the mountains is another story all together. I think mold is the Seattle city flower.

I used Henry's All Purpose for counter tops, acres and acres of Formica! I use Tanner's Bond from Tandy for leather. It smells about like any other contact cement, but it doesn't bother me. Life is too short to wait overnight for glue to cure.

Did you apply the antique to the entire piece, or just the carved design? And when you say a 'sheen coat", what product did you use? I'm not sure that a lot of 'sheen' products have the proper 'resist' to apply antique over.