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tsunkasapa

CFM
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Everything posted by tsunkasapa

  1. Nice work on both the knives and sheaths. I never remember to take 'before' pictures either.
  2. Not big on Christianity, but your work is excellent.
  3. You don't need to spend $50 Vtg Craftool Co USA Leather stamping tool #566 Discontinued FLOWER CENTER | eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/165472461867?hash=item2686ed642b:g:1XQAAOSwhL5idzqL Vtg Craftool CO #565 discontinued Leather stamping tool flower center Pre '64 | eBay Leather Stamping Tools CRAFTOOL #J520 Flower Center | eBay And there are more.
  4. Greetings from the PNW. Welcome to the forum. Nice fish you have there.
  5. Looks great. I wouldn't change a thing.
  6. I use tin snips/sheet metal shears for rawhide. As to the Barge Cement, no idea.
  7. How to Make Your Own Custom Leather Chaps that Fit Perfectly: Illustrated Step-By-Step Guide by S Denise Hoyle (goodreads.com) Book Sew Your Own Chaps (showclothesunlimited.com)
  8. Complete Saddle & Chap Making Cowboy Craft Library | eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/184423743696?hash=item2af08300d0:g:7FQAAOSwebdfJdKc How to Make Custom Chaps (oureverydaylife.com) Learn the art of chap making! - YouTube
  9. Great job! I am in the audience on that album.
  10. +1 on the HDPE. I use under all my sharp tools. Round knife, punches, occasionally thonging chisels. No damage to any of them. I have a big 32"x24" on my bench, and a 12"x48" I use outside when I true up the straight edge on a side for strap cutting. Good stuff.
  11. Nope, ain't doin' Facebook.
  12. You might try oiling the leather wit neats foot oil or olive oil. Don't saturate it but be generous with old dry leather.
  13. No, no examples. But I use it to remove mildew stains and the 'black' spots from some metals. Wipe it on, and as it dries, minor stains will disappear. It will also lighten veg tan that has a darker color.
  14. I use oxalic acid, not the Tandy stuff. Tablespoon to a pint. wipe on gently with a clean rag and let dry thoroughly, don't RUB.
  15. I agree with Dwight, but I would line the hip pads with milled veg tan if padded, or plain 2oz veg tan if unpadded.
  16. The BIGGER question is, "Why would I ever want to ruin my hobby by going there." I'm totally happy doing 'one offs' and tack repair. What I saw there would TOTALLY ruin what I do! No, damn, thank you!!!!!
  17. Exactly. I just pull as much thread as I can span, about 5 1/2-6 ft. trying to drag all that thread will just make you old and crazy.
  18. Rub a little bees wax on the punch for lube.
  19. Just go around with your dividers. Or lay a ruler along and use a scratch awl. No real need for a groove.
  20. I would sew around your inlays and space them further apart there is not a lot of 'structural material' between the cutouts.
  21. The edge needs to be sharp, but the long, POLISHED taper is vitally important to get the job done easily.
  22. 12B40 Delta Co. 9th Eng Bn Aschaffenburg, Germany 1973-75
  23. Greetings from one 12Bravo to another. I don't think there's any need to beyond 14-1600. Anything beyond that and you're just going through the motions and wasting time and effort. It all about maintaining a constant angle. And the proper angle for the particular tool. I sharpen maybe once a year, year and a half. Other than that I strop EVERY time I pick up a blade, and EVERY time I'm done with it. And sometimes part way through a large project. For my round knives I like a long, flat angle.
  24. Common 'rubber cement' can also be used as a contact cement. Available at almost any store.
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