TomE

The "copperas" in the Hasluck recipe above is iron sulfate crystals. He adds "log chips" and "gall nuts" that I guess are for tannins. The "gum arabic" is polysaccharide and probably helps with slicking the edge. Old school recipe. @Dwight of course you can buy Fiebing's pro black dye from their online store or from Springfield Leather, etc. There is something different about black pro dye compared with the browns I use more often. The black tends to dry out the leather more (oiling fixes it), and I notice an oily residue (not seen with the browns) when I rinse the dauber with water.

I use the sanding drum on a Cobra burnisher as a first pass to level up edges after trimming or to even out a curve. Need to be careful about the heat generated that will burn the leather. A light touch is best. I finish by hand sanding before burnishing.

I don't think iron sulfate is very reactive. It is unlikely to damage polyester thread. Hasluck ("Harness Making" 1904) describes making black dye. "The dye or stain is made by boiling together for half an hour 1 lb logwood chips, 4 oz crushed nutgalls, 1/2 lb copperas, a little gum arabic, and 5 qt of water. Keep a little in an old bottle hung near the bench. The dye is applied with a stick having a piece of felt attached to its end. The ink can be thinned by the addition of water."

Maine Thread Co makes waxed polyester threads in heavy weights, some of which are called artificial sinew. I've used their 0.040" waxed polycord, doubled up, to sew new girth straps on a saddle and reattach the panel. Heavy stuff!

Very elegant! Thanks for sharing.

@FarmersWife you’re welcome. Will be interested in how it goes.

The finished rounds are right at 1/2" diameter. I start shaping with a 5/8" or larger hole. Al Stohlman mentions the idea of using a heavy strap of leather clamped in a vise as a substitute for a rounder.

Thanks, Ron. I recall (?) you giving me tips for sewing close to hardware. Glad to return the favor. This rolled throatlatch is based on Al Stohlman's method for handle #17 in his case making book vol. 2. @bruce johnson supplied the rein rounder.

Thought I'd share the methods I've pieced together for making a triple stitched halter with a rolled throatlatch (link below). I've benefitted greatly from the advice of members of this forum and hope others find this information useful. I welcome your suggestions, corrections, alternative methods, etc. Thanks for looking. ellenberger-halter-methods.pdf

The throatlatches I've seen in that shape feel like they're solid leather to me. Haven't taken one apart. After shaping the rolled throatlatch in a rein rounder you can bend it into a shape and it will hold the shape fairly well when dry. Steinke ("Bridlework" book) mentions using an insulated multistrand wire for smaller rolled pieces. It needs to have some flexibility. I'd be concerned about a single conductor copper wire being too ductile. My money is on an all leather rolled strap giving you the best result. I'm going to post my complete methods for making a halter in this forum shortly. Would welcome your feedback.

The traditional way is to wrap a leather cover around a leather filler. I outlined the process in this forum. https://www.leathercraftmasterclass.com/forum-1/leathercraft-techniques/rolled-leather-strap. Here's an example:

Would like to buy a copy of "Making Harness. A Step by Step Guide" (2005) by Lewis Martin and Daniel Preston. Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to make some laced reins.

Waxed linen thread lasts a long time although I've seen it rotted in 40 yr old stirrup leathers. I'm guessing you're not making items that will be subject to heavy wear and outdoor weather. I use bonded nylon thread for almost all the tack I make, sewn by hand or machine. Color isn't a factor for me - English tack has thread that is chestnut, black, or natural/linen color. I think the stitch length, and using an awl, are the biggest factors affecting the look of the stitching. I do a lot of hand sewing with #207 nylon at 9-10 stitches per inch.

This idea of a hole at the end of a cut is used in bridle headpieces. The "split" separates 2 points for attaching a noseband and bit to the bridle. It is common practice to punch a hole at the end of the split to prevent tearing of the leather. What usually happens instead is the point is torn at one of the buckle holes used to adjust the length of the noseband (cavesson) or the bit billet.

Wow that's a good fit. Lots of neat details.

Ha! No charge. Do you smooth out the wax after applying? I like using my fingers because it makes them a little tacky and I can grip the needles better. Other distinguished members of this forum using heavy brown paper to burnish the waxed thread.

My 2 cents as a retired biochemist. The notable ingredients of Fiebings Pro Dye - isopropanol, ethyl acetate, and xylene - are not highly toxic, and on par with paint thinner. Don’t drink it and avoid skin contact. It is flammable. Isopropanol is the disinfecting alcohol used in doctors offices. Xylene and ethyl acetate are solvents found on lots of home products. Can cause respiratory problems and skin irritation if you have high level exposure. I’d be more concerned about the fire hazard. These are all highly volatile and won’t leave a residue in the leather after the dye is dry. The pigments in these dyes are not disclosed, could be problematic, but are present in smaller amounts. Bottom line - keep away from flame, wear gloves (nitrile), and use in a well ventilated area.

I bought these #21 needles for my Class 4 but haven't yet tried them out. https://leathermachineco.com/product/794-s-needles-size-21/ I read that these are newly restocked and haven't been available for some time. @Patrick1 posted a video on FB recently showing a Class 4 sewing 2 oz deerskin with 92 thread and a #19 needle in system 794. Not sure where he got the needle.

Neat project. The blade appears to be positioned behind the top of the roller. Have you tried moving it closer to the centerline?

Not sure of your application -waxing thread? sealing leather? - but borax might not be leather friendly. It dissolves in water to form a solution with a pH > 9.0. Above 70 oC borax decomposes to unspecified compounds and gives off gases that are reportedly toxic. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Borax#section=Chemical-and-Physical-Properties

Thank you, @Bert03241, @Thescandall, and @PastorBob. I've stayed focused on halters, bridles, and reins for the past few years to work on the fundamentals of cutting and sewing leather. Now it's time to dig out my carving tools that I put away in the early 1970s when girls and cars became a distraction.

The supply chain has sorted itself out after almost 1 year, and I was able to buy more of my favorite brass hardware for halters. This is a late Christmas present for my co-worker. She and I are in the equine care and sanitation business. My prior administrative job prepared me well for shoveling horse$#it.

Was looking at the same site. That's where I buy sanding sleeves for my Cobra burnisher/sander. I think the bench grinder @Kovant picked out has a 5/8" shaft but I am uncertain about the thread size.

Sharpening and stropping an awl is a good excuse to have a cup of coffee (tea) and rest shoulders from pulling up stitches. The Osborne awl hafts feel good in my hand. I use the big peg awl haft with a new/thick awl blade for really heavy projects because it goes where I point it.