Littlef

Me too. Left handed, but right eye dom. I shoot pistol left, but I shoot rifle and shotgun right.

Good lookin' holster Chuck.

I was referring to a resist such as this image. Its used when antiquing leather. It seals the leather so that antiquing gel only adheres to the areas that are tooled, and the antiquing gel will wipe back off of the portions of smooth leather. It might work.... it might not.

Another untested thought... seal the leather with a resist. Then burn your image through the sealant, and wipe the color over the image and wipe off, similar to how you'd apply an antique. maybe?

I gauge how much oil is needed by how fast it absorbs. I put on light coats. The first couple coats soak in almost immediately. After a couple coats, it starts taking longer to soak in. It's not an exact science, but once it starts taking several seconds to soak in, I decide that's probably enough. I typically only oil the grain side and not the flesh side. I've noticed If I oil the flesh side , it gets saturated and mushy. I can better control it by just applying to the grain side.

I mainly use the cheap disposable paint brushes from the hardware store. I have lambswool/fleece, but I mainly use those for applying dye. I also have a bag of old t-shirts that I cut into rags that I use sometimes.

that's really cool. Well done.

Well Done. Stick it to'em.

Those are nice!

I do the same, mix tallow and bees wax. In the winter I might add a bit of olive oil if the mix is too hard in the colder temps.

wow, 3 gallons of Tallow would keep me stocked for black powder for a long long time.

I've never seen a metal quick disconnect - The photo looks like those are standard attachments for a backpack. I think if you were needing the strength of metal, you have to re-work it for a regular buckle or a frog, like on a military rifle sling. You could also possibly make a carabiner go through a loop of leather. (Trying to think outside the box.)

cool, thanks!

that's kinda cool. I'm planning on making a tool roll, and canvas cover in duck cloth. That would be helpful working out how to hem all the edges.

I just cut it off with scissors and burn it with a lighter. I've thought about getting one of the thread burners. Thread burners are not expensive, but I'm not convinced its gonna make an improvement enough to separate me from some cash.

I actually bought one off Amazon for $80-ish, or whatever it was. Its takes practice and adjustment to get it right. I was splitting a couple straps to make a bonded edge. It took a few attempts to get it right. Several times, I split the strip about 80% through the length, and then I cut all the way through, and had to start over. With more practice, I'd probably work out the fine touch it takes, but its not something I'm going to need to do on a regular basis. Simple 1-2" straps are not physically difficult to pull, but I think 6-8" wide straps would be really difficult to split. - If I needed to split leather regularly It would be worth getting an upgraded model, with options to fine tune the thickness.

Its probably not going to work, but a bottle of isopropyl is cheap. Its worth a try. If you get it to dissolve in the alcohol, use a scrap test piece before trying it on your actual project.

I noticed it too. That looks like the job of grandchildren, maybe middle school or high school aged, who decided they would improve the grips. (That's my assessment.)

That's a really neat piece. The loop repair blends in nicely with the original leather work. I'm sure the family is thrilled with the work. (I know I would be.)

I'm not using tokonole on the grain side - only the flesh side. I was just responding to your comment on how you dilute the tokonole when you're burnishing the flesh side, which I'll try that next time. I have seen videos where people burnish the grain side without tokonole, but I've never tried that. I know I accidentally get tokonole on the grain side sometimes. - Like when I'm trying to burnish a long strap. It discolors the leather when you do. you could possibly get an even color if you intentionally tried to make an even coat, but I'm not sure if it would really create a benefit.

I starting my first leather projects last winter. I absolutely burnish the flesh side also if I apply tokonole. - I picked up one of those thick glass plates with the rounded edges off amazon. So far I've had no issues regarding the tokonole -

That's a good idea, and a good looking marker. I normally just use masking tape, but that looks waay nicer.

That's interesting, I've only applied it, undiluted. Next time I'll try diluting it and see how it works. - you can use up a lot of Tokonole, depending on how big your project is. I haven't seen it cracking my leather... but I'm also fairly new at this, in a hobby capacity, so It's not like I'm in a production environment.

I certainly haven't tried it - but just thinking about what a spray bottle pattern looks like on if you spray it on a piece of paper, it typically makes a pretty inconsistent pattern. You might get better results if you tried a "continuous spray" bottle - those make a much more even spray, but its also a really wide spray nozzle. It might make more mess than what you want to deal with. I use a continuous spray bottle if I need to add additional water while tooling.