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Showing results for tags 'help'.
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Hello all, I have started making small leather projects after 40 yr hiatus. I am currently making items such as designer keychains, small notebooks, book covers such as bible covers, any book cover specially made, belts etc. You get the picture. I am a 68 yr old disabled vet looking to sell these items at a modest price, just enough to cover the price of materials. Any good ideas on how I could go about this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and God Bless Entry Actions Report Entry
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Hi all! I am new to everything sewing... so you can bet that I have watched every tutorial out there that I can find. However, I cannot figure out why my machine sews 2 full stitches before my skipping many, many stitches. I have a Rex607z (shh! I am poor). I have been trying to learn for its equivalent machines like barraccuda 200z amd sailrite LSW. I have rethreaded, changed the needle (135x15 tri and upholstery thread...should be #69 but it does not say clearly), re-done bobbin, changed needle bar height, checked for burrs and bent things, and re-oiled everything. The kicker, the sewing machine will sew through jersey knit fabric (1 layer) with no skipped stitches. When I sew deer hide with a straightline, the ol' Rex makes two stitches then skips everything after. If it is in zigazag, it will only pick up the bobbin thread in a straight line..not in zigzag. Anyways, if anyone has any auggestions at all about what is going on and how to fix it, please let me know! Thank you all!
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Hi I'm very new to working leather, like I don't even have any tools yet. I have been given a bag of sofa leather off cuts. I wondered if anyone had any ideas of what to do with it. My goal in leather work is to make wallets craved with my tattoo designs. While I know I'm a long way off from that and this leather isn't right for craving. Could I use it for wallet interiors? Thanks in advance any help would be greatly appreciated
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Hello all! I've recently taken in interested in leathercraft and would love some advice from others as to where I should start, particularly when it comes to figuring out which leather I should be buying. So far I've just been practicing carving, stitching, and dyeing and have made a tooled passport cover which some veg tanned leather I bought on Amazon -- which I will never do again! The leather was stiff and very difficult to stamp and carve. It almost seemed like there was some kind of coating on it as it. I see now why it was so cheap... As an avid horse person, my interests are in definitely tack making, so I'd like to start making simple projects such as wither straps, bronc halters, spur straps, and eventually headstalls. I've seen a few people suggest harness leather for projects such as these, I also see "bridle leather" available on several online leather supply stores. Is there much of a difference? What kind of thickness should I be using for these projects? Can anyone recommend the best type (and brand) of leather for projects like this that won't break the bank? Any advice is greatly appreciated!!! -
Hi folks I have posted a bit in the critique section so please excuse the cross over. I am looking for pointers and/or tutorials in effectively using modelling tools. Especially in creating realistic cylinders, on knotwork (to make it look like beading or piping) or pillars, snakes, poles etc in pictorial carving. Do I double bevel the thing first? (a recent thought I have not yet tried). it seems like it should be such a simple thing but its doing my head in!! and I can't get it right!! I want to make this knotwork look like rounded braid next time (or maybe the time after that, or the time after that :)), and the pillars in the dragon pic look rounder. Please help thanks Pip
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I have been racking my brain for the past few months and I have not been able to come up with a name that I am satisfied with for my one-man leatherworking operation. I really would just like some filler words, for example: mercantile, brand, works, goods, etc... I would love to use my last name (Petty), but unfortunately, the word "petty" also has a definition in the dictionary that is synonomous with lesser quality. But if I could insert a filler word, so that "Petty" isnt describing the type of leather, or the type of operation I am running, that would be ideal. Something like "Petty (insert word here) leather goods". Or am I just over-thinking this? Because, at the same time, I think that anyone with common sense would realize that no one in their right mind would use a negative word like "petty" to describe their own product, so they must come to the conclusion that "petty" is a surname. Am I right? I don't know! Does anyone have any good ideas? What are some common generic words people use in their leather company names, or even words that people use in the trade business? Thanks Zayne
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What exactly is an edge creased used for? I understand it should put a nice crease line along an edge but is it fully cosmetic? Is the a feature bonus to using one? Does my crease become my a stitch line? Am I to finish my edge before or after the crease? I am fully clueless on this tool, just needing info to find out what tools to purchase as all I have is from a cheap stitching kit off Amazon.
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Can someone look at my attached pictures and give me any ideas of what I’m doing wrong? I’ve done everything I know to do. Wound a new bobbin, retreaded top thread and bobbin. I’m not sure what brand my machine is. The labels were removed. Any ideas of what you think it may be will be helpful. Thank you.
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I recently got a singer 211g151 and have been trying to sew leather holsters on it. I’m new to leather work. I been having trouble with the thread bunching up around the bobbin and/ or cutting the thread. Is there a way to get this machine to sew leather or am I wasting my time messing with it? I am using the braided wax thread and sewing 5-6 oz leather. Needle goes through the leather with ease it just doesn’t tighten on the bottom side resulting in the bunching up and cutting thee thread. Any help is appreciated
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Hello, I am looking at buying my second sewing machine and need help, I have never used a machine before so I am looking for something that's user friendly has a servo motor and a speed reducer. I had bought a jack sewing machine over a year ago paid $1850.00 for it and never been able to use it, can't figure out how to thread properly I had it threaded once before and it sewed but the it had a bird's nest on the bottom of the leather never been able to fix that, now when sewing it does about 2 stitches and the top thread breaks so I don't know if it's still bird nest's on the bottom the machine has become such a head ache that it just sits there. There's no youtube video's on it I called and e-mailed the company I bought it from and no help was given from them at all so I e-mailed the manufacturer with no help at all from them either. I know I need a walking foot industrial and I have it figured out down to 2 machines the cobra class 4 and the cowboy 4500 price wise both machines are the same for the package I am looking at. I make a large variety of products mainly use veg tan, english bridle and suede for lining. I need to be able to sew from 2 oz to about 18 oz. I have chosen these 2 machines because they are cylinder base with flat table accessory when needed and have a throat length of 16 1/2 as I make anywhere from wallets, bags, holsters etc. I would like input on these machines and how well they do the job I need. What are the pros and cons and what are the experiences people have with the company they bought it from. Any help is greatly appreciated thank you in advance.
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I am looking to buy my first leather sewing machine, I want to primarily make bags, and moccasin style shoes. 2 maybe 3 layers of 6-8 oz softer temper leather. I also like to stitch designs on to webbing belts (2 layers of seat belt webbing). The likelihood of me making a holster or sheath out of leather is slim to none. I might venture into leather belts. So here is where I am going to ask for help. What is the difference between roller feed , active roller feeds (techsew 830) and walking feet (techsew 860) for my applications I have only previously used a pfaff 545 & 1245 so I am familiar with how a walking foot operates, I am more curious what are the advantages and disadvantages of both. I will say I really like the idea of being able to see my needle as it plunges into the leather. I know my weaknesses are long straight lines and over or under running where I want to go because I am horrible at guessing where my needle/target is under the presser foot. I know that no one machine will do everything I want to do but I want a fairly versatile machine to start with and then pick up a 227R or similar cylinder arm medium duty machine that's capable of running 207 or better thread. I would like to get a machine in the next month so please help me understand what is going on, the pros and the cons. If you know of a good article, post or video link it or pm me. Thanks I need all the help I can get.
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Hello everyone! I am fairly new at leather craft. To this point I have made a few pouches, belts, journals and delved into leather carving - but I've always used veg-tan fresh leather. I found a brief case at a thrift store yesterday (covered in dust and quite lonely). I really liked the style of it, and would like to modify it (smaller mainly) into a handbag. So in taking on this challenge, I've run into some conundrums as aspected haha. As I mentioned I've never worked on old leather, and this leather does appear quite thirsty. But also appeared to be a moderate quality bag as far as machine made goes. It doesn't appear to have a thick finishing layer, the moment I spritzed some water on the bag the leather soaked it up. Photos below (first 3 original bag, last 2 since desconstruction). My main two questions (at this point) are: 1) glue...ideas on removal? The bag was originally partitioned into 2 compartments, I'd like 1 larger compartment for the handbag. So I basically just need to get rid of 1 strip of old glue down the middle. 2) cracking... I'd like to bend the leather in 1/2 where the "<=>" shaped leather pieces are positioned. On first inspection of the leather in the area I plan to bend, I noticed some cracking :/ (prior to me attempting to bend). Any thoughts on how I can prep this leather to accommodate bending/minimize further cracking? Thank you so much for any advice you can lend me in this endeavor!
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Hi! My name is Jon. I am the manager of a growing leather shop in Castroville,TX called Spartan Custom Leather. We are being blessed with an overabundance of work orders and are searching for anyone in the San Antonio, Castroville, Hondo, Lytle, Natalia area that would like to make some money making quality leather products. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Our shop number is 830-388-1907 Thank you
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I have A box of old tools and have no idea how to use them or what they were for . If someone can steer me in the right direction that would be great ! If they were used for cobbler work , can you tell me or show me how they were used ? Instructions or help ? Thanks !
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Hi folks I am in the uk. I am deliberating about buying a sewing machine, but I have very little idea of where to begin. I make tooled belts, sheaths, pouches, wallets and bags. I was looking at a flat bed walking foot machine (juki 1541) but someone advised me to go for a cylinder arm and build a flat bed to get maximum value. I don't have enough experience about threads or needles or machines and whilst I have watched a number of videos and read a whole load of posts I don't know what I need, or more I am getting very confused about what I need. Other than its got to be walking foot. I have a brother which I was duped into buying, as the seller said it could be used (converted) as a walking foot but it was cheap and I have used it on thin projects for a year of so but it is inconsistant and frustrating. I dont have the money to waste on another mistake. Please help if you can! Thanks Pip
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Help! I have 3 tubs total of scrap leather I have accumulated over time. 1 tub oil tan, 1 tub veg, and 1 tub chrome tanned. I have drawn a blank on what to do with it, I don't like the idea of throwing any away if I don't have too. I just need ideas on simple easy projects that don't require much time that way I can continue with my normal day to day. Key fobs are the only thing I can think of right now, but it gets boring doing just those! The pieces range from the size of a standard rounded key fob, to a large journal. any advice would be appreciated in fact any projects are welcomed easy or hard, because I hope this post might help others who are in the same boat
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Good Evening all, I am completely new to leather and have just been buying whole and part hides off eBay in order to get to know leather and practice working with it. I've been paying about £80 per hide, chrome tanned. I now know what I want (I think) but I don't really know where to buy. I ideally want a supplier in Spain as that is where I will need it shipped. I'm looking for full grain veg tan around 2mm thick. I have been in touch with Tandy which are based in Spain for their Europe outfit so that's perfect for shipping costs, however, their range seems limited and for the money they are asking, I don't want to part cash if there is a greater option out there which I'm sure there is and hoping one of you can help. Your help is greatly appreciated. In case someone has some advice, the leather is for tote style bags and similar. The handles are to be made from 2.8-3.2mm veg tanned Spanish shoulder single thickness. So if anyone has any other suggestions for types of leather for the bags, I would love to hear them. Many thanks.
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Hello folks , here again with another one of my newbie situations: I love my thread , as we all do and well I'm a beginner so I don't use much right a tiny 25 yard spool would do me well for a good time, but as I began to actually do more work , make more things , I began to realize "hey , this won't do". And this constant buying of thread has been on and on.I like to buy Tandy's nylon waxed thread: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/waxed-nylon-thread-25-yds-22-9-m And it's only 4 dollars, right so I'm not complaining or anything but I really feel I could do better for the long run , I know not all of you go and buy tiny 25 yard spools but yeah what's something I could do to not spend 16 dollars on 100 yards ? Also , today I bought some "Omega nylon #2 thread" thinking I could rub some beeswax on it and pass it off as waxed nylon thread , I tried it , and it didn't feel as good as Tandy's, maybe because the beeswax was homemade ? Also , the thread isn't made up of 3 little stands like Tandy's, it's only 2. Could I somehow make this work ? It's 275 yards. Thank y'all in advance
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So I bought a cobra class 26. I was trying to figure out some motor speed settings... I forgot to take out the bobbin and bobbin thread got wrapped around the base of the hook. How do I take out the hook to clean out the thread? OR point me towards a service manual with a similar hook set up... https://photos.app.goo.gl/BNpjyRumwUVAlNvF3 https://photos.app.goo.gl/cn3pyBOU17Gpbggc2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/46Uf099vG8xyKmAE2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/0AgXRrwXhBg4lD962
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Hello folks ! Something weird is happening.. a while ago I was making a wallet, as the newbie I am with very little experience using other products than Sheen and dyes, I decided I wanted to use antique finish, medium brown (fiebing's that comes in the little plastic jar) and so I did and after noticing that it wasn't such a good idea I tried rubbing it off with water , and somehow that worked but not quite, it brought off most of the stains but it really took some in , to the point "of no return" with water at least, and so I got frustrated, abandoned the project because it was ruined and left it for a while. A little over week ago I found it again and decided I'd dye it black and I did , it was great , the part I didn't use the paste on took the dye well but that part that did , it's sort of dye proof , water proof , everything proof , I tried dyeing it once , I left it to dry for 36 hours , I tried to buff it to add some super sheene , and the black came off several parts returning some huge spots to their natural color pretty much , and I tried dyeing it around 2 more times , same result every time , later I thought I just needed some deglazing , I read on here I could use rubbing alcohol , I don't really have access to a shop at the moment and probably won't til a week from now so is there anything I can do to replace deglazing? First I tried neatsfoot oil , it took it (from what I saw) , the dye came right off , tried rubbing alcohol 3 times , when it dried the last time , I tried wetting it (I read on here that it can help absorb dye) but still still didn't work , but it made me notice that my item is pretty much waterproof, water stays over it like nothing, does not bother to absorb What can I do ? Thank y'all in advance, good luck to anyone who's got the storm thing coming at them -
So I managed to get my hands on some couch leather/upholstery leather. It's real and stuff , tested it and stuff and yep , it passed. It's beautiful stuff , I'll be putting pictures up later I was wondering if I could make wallets and stuff outta this , I'm not sure about the edges , it's kinda flimsy (moves around a lot when I try to slick it) But my real question is , can I actually burnish this or would it just waste my time ?
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Hello, i am just starting out and i figured out real fast that this is a VERY expensive hobby starting up, but I've found and made some things to cut cost that i wanted to share with yal to help out, ill label whats free, and what i payed for and how much. 1. FREE... wine box from any liquor store.just ask them if they have one to give to you, they just throw them out. Makes a tool holder, storage box.. anything you want, just be creative. 2. CHEAP...Bar soap containers. 1$ at walmart... for holding all your small stuff you want to keep separate. Like the swivel knife and stamps. 3. CHEAP/FREE.Trash bags/walmart bags. Used to lay down under leather when dying. Be careful with walmart bags though, alot of times they'll have holes and not as flat. CHEAP... tool storage boxes.. bought a pack of 4 of them at walmart for 9 bucks. Good for keeping things organized. FREE/CHEAP... old white t-shirts.. instead of throwing away the old white work shirts. Keep them cut them up. Good for tons of stuff.. buffing towels, speading glue and dye, what ever you can think of. CHEAP... stanley box knife. Couple bucks at wal mart and you can get 50 blades for 5 bucks i believe. FREE/CHEAP... BOOKS! Scribd.com 8 bucks a month and you get a ton of books(including al stohlman)..you can also download them onto your phone, using your free 30 day trial(wink, wink).. and if you cancel membership before the month is over you dont pay a dime. Again (wink wink) its not letting me put up the pics so if you want to see them, or have any questions, send me a message and ill send them to you somehow! Addition! Ill add stuff as i think of them and do them... The internet/youtube!! I have already learned a ton of stuff off youtube, and when you have a better understanding of what your doing and how to do it you'll waste less products and save money... Tandy leathers offers a free beginner's class go take it!!
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Hello there , for a few days now I've been looking at these asian wallets (http://goodsjapan.com/leathercraft-book-mens-long-wallet-made-of-leather-diy-leather-crafting-1636-p.asp) , there's many Japanese books on them and whatnot but I don't read Japanese, I don't wanna deal with any of the shipping stuff and whatnot so do any of y'all know where I could find any books here in the US or just order off a more common site that have similar or patterns of the same style ? Maybe an ebook or in-store Thank y'all in advance! (:
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Help please! I'm trying to sell this saddle and need help identifying it. No maker's mark anywhere on it. I think it was bought for barrel racing purposes, given the seat, but am wondering if I'm wrong and it should be listed as a pleasure/trail saddle. Does anyone know its maker and/or can identify its proper classification? -
My brother wants me to make a belt for him but he is a very large person. I dont have any leather that is long enough to make a belt with a single strip of leather. How can i join two pieces while keeping the belt thin and reasonably nice looking?
