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Showing results for tags 'dying'.
Found 27 results
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Hi all Can chrome tanned leather be dyied successfully? My first attempts appear be successful but what of long term survival? Photo is of Portifino D Shoulder leather from Tandy. Before and after application of a custom blend of three Pro Die shades with a single coat of Fiebings Pro Resist on top. What's there not to love! Silverd -
I have found some light tan drum dyed leather for a great price. I can use the tan color but also need some black leather for a project. Does anyone know if you can dye already drum dyed leather?
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I’ve tried to search the net to avoid asking, but now I must. How does one get theb pooled/woodgrain/streak effect in dyeing or staining?
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Hello everyone. I am a new leather worker and I am going to be starting a big project soon. I am planning on making a leatherbound journal for a gift. With this journal, I shall have a border and details carved/pounded in. I would like the journal to be black and the details to be red, however I am not sure how I should go about coloring the details. If I dye the details first and then do the base, I'm worried the black would sink in to the details, so I'm a bit wary about that tactic. If I paint the details, first I'd need to know the type of paint but then I'd also need to know how natural it will look. I also am unsure what I should use to seal the dye for each idea. This shall be on vegetable tanned leather. If anyone has any advice, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much for your time reading this.
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So I have multiple questions on this subject, some of which I know have been answered on other posts( don't need to be told how to use the search function, I have found some answers to a lower degree than I prefer) Vescocity of dye and type. What is the best type of dye for spraying? Just looking for a what works best for most and a place to start testing on my own. System: I am on a very tight budget but am willing to relocate funds to get something worth while. I am wishing to do overall dying as well as coloring tooling. Now that I have brought up coloring, is the a latex or silicone coating I can use to cover areas I do not want overstay that could be peeled off afterwards.
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So tonight I was working on two separate notebook covers 5oz leather, one dyed turquoise and the other was grey(heavily diluted black dye) had both to the color I wanted. I wanted to dye the interior darker black for the grey and medium brown for the turquoise. The problem was the darker dye bled through to the front on both pieces. does anyone know how to prevent this?
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So tonight I was working on two separate notebook covers 5oz leather, one dyed turquoise and the other was grey(heavily diluted black dye) had both to the color I wanted. I wanted to dye the interior darker black for the grey and medium brown for the turquoise. The problem was the darker dye bled through to the front on both pieces. does anyone know how to prevent this? -
I am doing a project on veg tan leather with small lettering. I am dying it red and then painting the letters white. I was told you could just dye the whole thing red. Apply a coat of resolene which should seal in the dye and then paint over the red dye. But the red keeps bleeding through the white. Am I not letting the dye dry long enough or maybe not letting the resolene dry long enough. I'm letting the dye dry about 3 hours under a fan. Buffing then applying resolene with cloth letting dry for 2 hours and buffing then applying the paint. Any suggestions?
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Haven't posted any projects for a while. Made a new phone case for wife. 4/5 weight.leather with magnetic clasp. 3 card slots ( full with 9 cards). Saddle stitched six stitches per inch.
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HI everybody! I am working on a mask and I will be attaching a horn core to it. This core has been out in the elements for awhile and so it has some green tint to it. I want to try to give the mask a similar weathered/aged look to it. I want it to look like the mask itself has been sitting out in the elements along with the horn core. I want to give it a "spalted/mottled" look. I don't want the dye to be dark but just give it a tinting. Does anyone have suggestions about how to achieve this? I don't have an airbrush. The dye I have is a Tandy Leather Eco-Flo water based Forest Green. My thoughts: 1. Put some neatsfoot oil spots then dye the piece 2. Put dye in a spot and almost immediately wipe it off Let me know what you think or if you have done it please let me know how you achieved it and include a picture please. Oh I also have some kelly green Cova Color also from Tandy, which is an acrylic paint.... I'm not sure if that would give me the mottled look I want though...
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Wedding Guestbook/Memory Book/Journal Cover
bland posted a topic in Books, Journals and Photo Albums
I recently my wife asked me to make a wedding guestbook for my daughter's wedding. She didn't give me much lead time so I pushed some things a little hard. It is 5/6 oz veg tan except for pockets in front cover that is 3 oz veg tan that was quite soft which caused me some problems in stitching and edging. It is dyed Fiebrings British Tan. I had to re glue the edge of the 3 oz leather after stitching as it pulled up in some spots I think I got it down pretty good. The tooling on the back is not quite symmetrical. I'm still saddle stitching everything. Let me know what you think. Here are a couple more photos. -
Newbie question again... i just bought a pattern of a hat I want to make & it brought up a question I haven't figured out yet... How do I make veg tanned leather a lighter color than it already is? Is it painting instead of dying, starting with a different type of leather, etc? heres a pic of the hat I bought the pattern for - I really like the orange leather underside the brim & might even(after I get it right a few times) try orange laces too... thanks, Russ -
Hi all, I'm new here and new to working with veg tanned leather. I'm making some experiment with a piece of hide I was given, which means I don't know it's provenance, nor if it was treated with something previously. I have been doing some dye tests on it, and they look good. However, when I use Fiebings dye prep it seems to stain the leather somehow. Does anyone know why this might be? Please see images. I managed to spill some of the dye prep, which is what caused the largish splodge in the centre and also it drip down the bottle which I place on the leather and caused that dark square stain (yes, I know, VERY shoddy behaviour!) However, the more even staining is just caused by my wiping the dye prep over the hide with a cloth. I tried to find some Oxalic acid to clean with that, but failed (in the UK in my town). I'm back in the Netherlands so will look there for some. Many thanks in advance for any help. Simeon
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Hey guys Shop Gnome here, Mojo George and I had an idea. Felt tip "refillable" pens from the local art supply company. Ad some dye and PRESTO! edging. (this is my first attempt at using this so more info when I get it.) Has any else tried these things? If so thoughts? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OjhCpucdcHRHhPd2lNSDlCQ00/view?usp=sharing Simple veg tan scrap. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OjhCpucdcHYkZoa3pORkUxU3M/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OjhCpucdcHUURUNGRfSzFFSms/view?usp=sharing Quick rub with the pen. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OjhCpucdcHbFpBbXMyZ1NoRzA/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OjhCpucdcHN3ZqVlFHRVE3OUk/view?usp=sharing Of course this is USMC Black one of my favorite colors. After the 45 minutes of buffing and more buffing we will see how it comes out. Let me know what you guys think. Shop Gnome Out! -
I have scoured the forms for some time now and cant find the exact info I am looking for. I use antique often and am quite familiar with all the different wiping, resisting, painting techniques, but I still cant figure out how this look in the pic is achieved. The tooling looks to be heavily shadowed with black but the leather itself still looks completely natural like no die has ever touched it. Giving it a high contrast look. How is this done? Even if you dunked the whole piece in resist and then applied the dark/black antique to the tooling, the untooled part of the leather would still catch some of the antique in its natural nicks and dents. Was this piece just washed and scrubbed super well after the antique was applied?
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I really like friction/tension hold sheaths and I am working on one right now (a horizontal draw) when a question popped in my head: can I dye the leather first (I like oil dyes) while the pieces are apart, then wet form the sheath around the knife after that? For the knife sheath I'm working on now I wet formed it first then dyed it but I was just curious if I could go the other way around. A second question issue came up with this project, it is a small knife with a finger guard. I have the sheath going up like a quarter of the handle and as I was wet forming the sheath the leather dried and the opening shrank a little. I could pull it out just fine but when I would go to put it back in I was mashing the leather. I cut a hole along the top a little to make it so I could put the knife back in without mashing the leather. The question is: when I am wet forming a sheath how do I accommodate the finger guard but still maintain the tension/friction necessary to hold in the blade? Third question: how large do I need to make the welt? The welt I have on this one is about 1/4 inch but the blade moves around a lot in the sheath. Do I need to cut the welt in the shape of the blade? Thank you!
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I am making a dog collar that I would like to paint, dye and finish the whole collar with Eco-Flo Tan Antique Gel. I am using Angelus paints and dyes. I was wondering if there is a common order in which these steps are done or if it can vary depending on desired effect? I am guessing the Angelus dyes will not work over the Eco-Flo antique gel or become too dark to see the color. I may just paint the specific areas as I don't have any resist to keep the colored dye areas from the Antique Gel. Thank you. -
Is there a secret to dying with black. I make a lot of dog collars an leashes and when using black, it always bleeds. Any other color is ok but, black, not so good. What am I doing wrong ?
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I always hear that you should buff leather after you dye it. However, I don't know exactly what that means. I use feibings pro oil dye. I am making belts currently but will be making other items in the future. I dye the inside of the belt, even when using black (yes, I know), because I don't like how it looks undyed. How does one "buff"? What stage do I buff? After the final resolene finish or right after I dye before I do anything else? And what is the best way to avoid sealing the leather on the flesh side to avoild bleeding? I have heard that using 50/50 resolene on top of gum trag is the way to go. Is that recommended? Thanks! Zayne
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I completed my first belt last night. I also cut out two other belts and dyed them with fiebings oil dye (Black and Dark Brown). I have a few questions, as this is my first time doing any of this. When dying, a lot of people say not to dye the flesh side of the belt, as it may rub off over time. but what if you use gum trag on the back, over the top of the dye? Will that help with the dye not bleeding? Also, I bought edge kote (black and brown). What is the difference between the edge kote and the normal dye? If i used the edge kote, would i put it on at the same time that I dye the rest of the belt? Then afterwards, bevel and burnish? or would i bevel and burnish before dying? The belt if completed was natural, and not dyed. I noticed that when I beveled and burnished the edges, some of the water soaked onto the surface of the belt, and darkened it slightly. should I save burnishing for after i apply whatever finish/conditioner i apply? or does it matter? Sorry for all of the questions. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi Guys I am recently having a problem that drives me insane. I dip dye all my stuff with Fiebings Pro Oil Dye that is diluted with denatured alcohol to 40% - 65% of the original strength. This usually works great. But i when i dye thin (around 3 oz) vegtan, it sometimes looks like this (see image). funnily enough, i have never had this problem with the exact same leather in 5 oz or above. Any ideas what the problem is? -
I'm having some major issues sealing a piece I've dyed with the Eco-Flo Scarlet Red color. I made sure to buff between each layer of dying, and buffed before sealing with Satin Sheen, but after 3 coats of Satin Sheen, color is STILL coming off quite a bit. The amount of residual dye on my daubers is not diminishing. This is a piece that will be worn on bare skin, and I certainly don't want to potentially stain skin after sweating or in minor rain! Has anyone else had issues with red in particular? I've never had issues like this with any other color I've dyed with before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!!
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Hey everyone, I've done some searching but come up with mixed results. Just wondering if anyone has suggestions for the best combo for painting and sealing on top of Fiebings Pro Oil Dye? I'm cutting, tooling, punching holes and then dying my pieces black — passing them off to a friend to do some painting on them (using a full range of color), and then she's giving them back so I can seal the paint and stitch them up. I haven't done any painting, acrylic or otherwise, on leather yet so I'm wondering if anyone had and product or combo recommendations given that I'm using the pro oil dye... Thanks in advance! -
Would someone kindly point me in the right direction. For several weeks now I've been trying to come up with published techniques when using multiple Fiebings dyes (in my case on shoes and belts) separated/protected by some sort of resist or technique. I'm accustomed to using paraffin in a pottery situation to either prevent the clay from receiving any color (at all or at that moment of the process - or to protect a final step while completing colors in another section). Is there a corollary in using Fiebings' dyes? I've gotten reasonable good at blending in the dyes creating a patina, hue or amalgam I like. I am unable to discover a product or technique that will enable me to create crisp lines. -
I am doing a belt and I want to get the letters darker than my dye I am using. I have only stamped a couple of times all my stuff is plain (no tooling) minimal stamping. The customer wants the letters to be darker. The example they gave me is attached. I have practice using a dark brown dye but it just looks a little browner. I have also used a highlighter but only minimal results. Any suggestions or tips. This is really my first time doing this kind of stamping. Pat
