JLSleather

WTH?@! OUt of control .. rings is closed on saturdays, knifekits closed on saturdays, and one other place wants you to register and then states it won't guarantee shipping time ....

Oh, yeah -- that's irritating .. "we dont' have it but we can get it for you"... HEY. BUDDY. I got a phone TOO.

Anybody else way tired of having to create an account, log in, redirect, return to site... .... just to order something simple? Tried to order ONE "blue gun" a bit ago .. click the choice ... go to cart .. choose paypal method... redirect to paypal, click confirm,..... return to site ... AND GET ASKED TO SIGN IN. Wait .. you have my address, my payment method, and the items which you sell and I'm willing to buy... so you need something else WHY?@! Oh, well -- it was only ONE gun. There are other places that sell it, so I don't care about that one site, and it was only ONE gun, so they likely aren't too concerned about losing the order (and perhaps that's why it's not simple?).

What are you using to make the bullet loops? Should be about the right thickness for a liner.

I CHEAT on those light weight items -- dye the leather, and THEN cut out the parts.

Clean lines, nice color, pro stitchin'.. I LIKE IT

Well, that's the thing, aint it. Your answer is the same as my answer --- daubers, brushes, and/or airbrush. You could use a stain (some of them are quite good) but likely wouldn't get that shade. Area that size, I would have used the airbrush myself. Still, over all that still looks good.

I choose strap thickness partially by strap width. As a rule, a 2" wide strap doesn't look very good at 4 oz leather, even if it's "strong enough". And a 1" strap in 13 oz skirting leather just looks awkward (on a bag). That said, most of my bag straps have been in the 6-8 oz range. And I want them cut from the same leather as the bag itself... so I get the same color and texture as the bag. At times, this has meant using 4/5 oz leather on the main bag, lined with 3 or 4 oz, then using the same 4/5 oz leather for the strap, but folding it over lengthwise so it's double thick and smooth both edges (no burnished edge).

Nice job, Kid Stitchin' looks great, loops are uniform and fitting, color looks nice. But I wanna give you a couple thoughts, I think you could benefit. I mean it as a compliment -- I generally don't offer it (any more) to people who aren't going to "get it" anyway. Don't take it wrong -- your rig looks great. I'm talking about making it a 12 on a 1 to 10 scale Personally like to get you AWAY from that ant-streak crap. Your carving is lookin' pretty good, but I have always thought that "antique" stuff looks like what's left behind after the rain puddles dry up. I know some consider it "traditional", but fact is that's "how it was done" before there were better methods of coloring widely available. And good carving doesn't need it. And watch your "halos" -- that beveling 'ridge" around the designs. Some of that can be done with just a modeling spoon you use for rounding your cut edges. OH, YEAH -- not usually a fan of "staging" in photos, but the trough and iron gate is actually purdy 'catchy'

Gotta watch the frisket -- even some of the "light tack" stuff can leave a residue on the leather that's just impossible to remove. And some have chemicals where the 'sticky' comes off, but permanently discolors the leather.

Rubber cement. Same cheap stuff you use to temp attach parts for sewing / lacing. Yep, exactly that right there. Stitchin' looks good too. Now if it wasn't backwards ...

http://www.jlsleather.com/compare-items/ I wouldn't think a tapered gusset would affect construction, except perhaps the length of the flap. But, I do hate that dark thread on a light project.

Tha's jus 2 views of the same holster -- Wickett/Craig skirting leather split to 8 oz. I couldn't get used to the 226 myself - darn grip is too big around for me. Guy was s'posedta send me a 'vanity' pic of the thing with his ACTUAL 226 in it, but haven't seen anything yet.

Either way - what's called "tooled" leather is often done flat, "embossing" leather is often done after basic forming. I don't have much use for 3-d "set it on a shelf somewhere to look at" leather, but it IS done.

Impossible to say just by looking at a pic. Best way, the guy who made it could tell you. But I'm seen some nice finish with Tan-Kote, Saddle-Lac (though I wouldn't recommend it for this), Resolene,

Now we just needa git Bob tell us what he's buildin' with that plywood

Making what product? I've never tried it, because I've not had CAUSE to try it.

Weird -- I would have thought it would crack.

I'm assuming that it DID COME WITH the spring steel tension adjustment piece? I don't see it in your pic, though maybe you removed it for the picture.... (?)

No tension in WHAT spring? That piece of spring steel is adjusted with a TENSION SCREW, which you can get from Bob for like pennies and replace if the hole isn't stripped out.