camano ridge

Thank you all for the kind words. I enjoyed making that set. Jumpout I have to be honest with you, the Lawman rig you made several months back was the inspiration for that rig.

I agree with Chief. THe method you want to use won't work. When doing the rivet back type of Sam Brown or button stud, you push the bur over the shaft and fit the burr tight against the leather then peen the end sticking out of the burr similar to doing a copper rivet. If you can't get get the stud anvil https://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8112-00.aspx, if you have a scrap piece of hard wood like oak drill a hole the width of the button stud just deep enough for the button to sit down in. Then finsh mounting the button stud just as you would if you had the stud anvil.

Frank, a lot of great work there. I realy like that Mexican loop pattern for the Schofield.

What are you using for edge coating?

Customer wanted a matching set, he wated one belt to match two different holsters. The first holster is for a Kimber 4", the second holster is for a 1873 Cattleman SAA 5.5". He wanted it with a border to match everything else and the gator inlay. He wanted one double mag carrier and two singles as well as a 6 cartridge belt slide (I made it snap around).

Depending on the style of wallet you intend to make 2/3 oz will work.

When saying decorative, what do you have in mind? Copper rivets are traditional for sheaths, axe covers etc. When done right they look good and will last as long as the leather does. However they will age and get a patina. Depending on the leather you may evetualy get some verdigris (oxidation). I have some floral cap rivets however they are hard o find.

Grampa Joe FYI, you may not get a response from the OP. Original post was almost 4 years ago. Post 17 says they are long gone.

Once you cut your groove go over the groove again with your groover and keep cutting deeper each time until the groove is deep enough. If you are not getting a deep enough cut your cutter on the groover may need sharpening. I have bothe a douglas groover and a Tandy stiching groover and I can get a very deep groove with a couple of passes. Going over the stitches with anoverstitch wheel will push the stitches down into the groove and may help achieve what you want.

Nicely done.

I would warn the person you are giving it to that it is lined with chrome tanned. leather. Veg tan lining is best. Chrome tanned hides contain chormium salts that may very well harm the guns finish. All though the holster looks good for the first one, you may want to just call it a prototype and redo with a different lining. This is a qoute from a post TwinOaks made on another thread a few years back. "Chrome tanned leather is used in a LOT of things, and about the only things you shouldn't use it on is holsters, sheathes, or anything that'll be in contact with oxidizable (rustable) metal. The reason is that chrome tanned leather is made using chromium salts. Those salts are still present in small amounts even in the finished product and can damage the finish on metal. So, for something like a very nice pistol, or a custom knife, it'd be a bad thing to have a holster or sheath that eats the metal. Also, chrome tanned leather does not mold, carve, stamp, etc. as well. For something like a jacket or a purse, that's okay. It isn't unusual to see a nice piece of veg tan with a beautiful carving sewn onto chrome tan in the case of a purse. "

Josh, very nice piece of work. That single six should be honored to reside in that rig.

If I was from Canada I would mean that Something along these lines

I would go with a bush craft style sheath. Both knives look good.

What you are looking for are pull the Dot snaps made by the DOT fastner company. http://www.dotfasteners.com/pull_the_dot.html%C2'> The problem is that you have to buy each of the four pieces seperately in lots of 100 each when you buy them direct. You can get complete sets on ebay for around $18.00 for I think 10 sets . They are a fair bit more expensive then standard line 24 snaps.

When I buy Blackhawks I buy them from LA Police Gear their price is always 24.95 http://www.lapolicegear.com/bldegun.html

On the XDs the platform isi the same both ( and .45 are .9 inch width on the slide. THe barrel on the 9 is slightly thicker to fit the slide. The XD-S 3.3 .45 ACP (introduced in 2012) pretty much rewrote the book on what defines large-caliber pocket pistols by becoming the smallest .45 ACP semi-auto ever produced. With a polymer frame and modest weight of 21.5 ounces (empty), a 5+1 capacity, a 3.3-inch barrel, an overall length of 6.3 inches, height of 4.4 inches, and slide width of just 0.9 inches

You could have probably gotten the same suppilness with a few light finger tip applications in conjunction with lexol. skid mores or similar. Without the oilyness. By soaking the straps you saturated them with the oil. It will take a very long time for all the excess oil to leach out. The stool does look nice.

Old tool sniper, there is a market for beaver tail. Here, also over on cascity.com leathershop forum. If you do a search for beaver tail you will find beaver tail medicine pouches and other projects. ALso the muzzleloading forum http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/ , I see people there that have made projects out of beavertail and some trying to find beaver tail.

The Shoreline store just expanded about 6 months ago so they have more room for more stock. The manager Andy is knowlagble and helpful. He is a long time leather worker and has managed stores in several states. Quilceda Leather is worth the trip if your going to the are for other purposes. It is a good place for furs and suede. They have small pieces of veg tan or will order sides for you. There conchos and so on are primarily Tandy they buy at the wholsale price. I shop there when I don't want to drive all the way in to Shoreline. THere web site has a virtual tour of their retail shop. In the back room they have a large selection of Deer hides and Suedes. They also have rwhide and supplies for making Native American drums.

Like stated above let the oil migrate into the leather first. I prefer to oil after dying as the dying process tends to draw some of the nutrients out of the leather. I make a lot of holsters my goal is not to soften the holster just to put some nutrients back in the leather. I use finger tip application only. Just a light oiling.

You will find as many opinions about that as have been expressed above on the original post. Myself I wait at least 24 hours to allow the oil tim to migrate through the leather. On thicker or really dry leather I may wait a couple of days. When you first apply the oil you will notice darkening and possibly even some splochiness given some time this will even out lighten up and the sploches will fade away..

Charles, are you refering to a Ruger LCRx 3" ? If you are making a holster for a revolver it will not be quite as flat as a semi auto. What you describe sounds pretty much like a pancake. The problem with trying to make it so it will hide under a vest, most vesta are shorter then jackets. That means that the holster would be extremely high ride. Therefore you will have a lot of the revolver riding above the the belt and it will want lean out, making it harder to conceal. I have a pattern for an SP 101 which would be close just needing stitch line adjustments. I will dig it up tomorrow and see if it will help you.

I don't think your going to find good quality Python for much less then that. Doing a quick search on ebay I seen from $105.00 - $185.00. However you don't know what your getting until you get it. Roje usually provides good quality legal hides. Pan American is another you might try though I think there price will be close to the same. Tandy had it on sale a couple of time a year or so ago, however I have not seen it in the store near me for a while. I don't know how large the skins you have been getting are, springfield leather is selling theirs for $80.00 a meter.

Cheryl, here is a link to the response to Tallbald.http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,53850.0.html Even on Leatherworker.net forums you have to be a member to see pictures and so on. It only takes a few moments to sign up it is free and if you are interested in western gear, holsters belts, chaps, etc it is a good place to go under the leathershop forums there are all kinds of helpful threads and show me your stuff threads. The FAQ how tos has a lot of good information on old time dyes and so on. If any of that type of stuff is of intrest to you it is worth a few seconds of your time.