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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. There is a kijiji ad in Quebec offering a TAKING TK-801 skiver for $500. The owner keeps replacing the ad each month, so it has been for sale for some months now. Owner will not negotiate price. Seems to be fairly priced considering the new price. And for USA, the current exchange rate is especially favourable. http://www.kijiji.ca/v-commercial-industriel/trois-rivieres/taking-skiver-leather-vinyl-rubber/1111964822?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true If it wasn't for $350 shipping to Calgary, I probably would have bought it. Tom
  2. Very nice! Now my son will be wanting one! Tom
  3. I've never had to re-time mine, three years. Check loose set screws, check clutch properly set or reset. Have you had a jamb or broken needle causing a jamb? Call Ron as Colt says. Tom
  4. 746 watts = 1 hp Tom
  5. You have a choice, raw edges, or add extra to all outside edges to allow for turned edges. Tom
  6. Just below the box for your post, on the right, click more reply options and you'll find options for uploading pictures ..
  7. It is the starting winding that determines the direction the motor runs. Reversing its leads is the way to do it (as you have done). The starting winding is only powered until the motor is nearly to speed, then it cuts out. A centrifugal switch in the end of the motor switches it off. There are other types of induction motors too. If you hear a switch drop out when the motor is coasting down, you have the one using a centrifugal switch. If not, it is the other type (can't remember its type name), and since it works and doesn't lock or buzz, you still made the right choice. Tom
  8. Try out the search function, upper right of your screen. A search for wallet in patterns and templates yields this list for you to review. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&section=search&do=search&fromsearch=1 Tom For making your own pattern, measure out the size of bills, cards, etc. that you want to fit. Layout on paper, cut and tape or staple together to try out size. Allow about 1/2" extra for stitching and room to open and remove bills or cards without them binding. The are also a lot of discussions of how to make card pockets, and keep the bulk down.
  9. Is the pedal rod too short now? Tom
  10. For western Canada look at Leighton's http://www.leightons.ca/sitemap.html Tom
  11. Too wet. Needs to dry until it is very near the same colour as it was before you wet it. Wet leather won't hold or give good impressions. Also when you fold leather, it will lose some definition as the surface is stretched. And folded wet will do worse. Your tooling should leave nice burnished marks, nice medium to dark brown. For thin leather, glue it down to hard board, plastic or something similar to keep it from stretching. Rubber cement works well. It will peel off. If you do a search here, you'll also find that some use shelf liner with a sticky backing. Peel and press it on. Shouldn't need to hit it more than once. Sometimes the stamp bounces and doesn't stay exactly in the impression, so loses definition. Professional stamps leave a cleaner impression, but the lower cost tandy stamps should still look reasonably good, and are good for beginners ... until you decide to get really serious about leather. Tom Edit: Rather than too wet, I think it is too dry. Do some test on a piece of scrap so you can see how it behaves versus the moisture content. Test stamp it every 15 minutes. When it is getting close to the correct moisture content, try every 5 minutes. If it won't take impressions, it is too dry. If the stamp just about cuts through or does cut through, too wet and maybe too heavy a hand on the mallet.
  12. Add a few pictures so people can see what it looks like and form some opinion of its condition. Tom
  13. See this thread for the "The Leather Worker's Manual" by Standage. Tom
  14. The respirator you use should have a cartridge for organic chemicals. Simple filter will take out droplets, but not the fumes themselves. If you can smell the solvent through the filter, it is not working or the charcoal (or other absorbent) is used up. Replace it. Tom
  15. Try reducing both tensions together if the thread is being pulled into/below the surface of the leather. Tom
  16. Help wanted is for hiring help, like classifieds in the newspaper. Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. Tom
  17. Not much to skive on 1/64". You likely need 2-3 oz. Tom
  18. Is your presser foot lifting with the leather when running with the motor? That will result in skipped stitches. Try tightening the presser foot spring down some. Tom
  19. See this chart http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Tom
  20. If you are sewing 8 oz (1/8") and over, up to 3/8", get the speed reduction pulleys as part of the package. Tom
  21. Generally rubber cement (Elmers and others generally found in stationery stores) here is only used for temporary gluing. For permanent gluing, suggest using contact cement. Either hydrocarbon solvent based (often in a red can) or latex water based (often in a green can). A lot depends on your tolerance for strong smelling solvents. There are lots of threads here about contact cement and proper usage. Tom
  22. If the needle is too small, the top tension can't pull the knot up in thick hard leather. Try a larger needle versus your thread size. Also try lubricated thread. Tom
  23. I have a Techsew 2700. Got it about 3 years ago. No problems other than learning to set the tension with changes in leather. That goes for all machines. Tom
  24. A search of these forums using the search function in the upper right of your screen, looking for tangleboss brings up 16 threads. The sixth one down may answer your question. Tom
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