Northmount

I notice rivets in the straps, but not on the handle. The straps only support half the weight of the handle (since the back supports the other half of the weight). I think I would add rivets to the handle too. I like the bag. Pretty nice job. Tom

Updated with additional info from Joe.

It could be due to a little burnishing while working with the leather while shaping it. Tom

You have put a lot of work into this tutorial It should help many people that are wanting to do the same. Thanks Joe from everyone here at leatherworker.net. I'm going to "pin" it. Tom

Aluminum is soft, easy to cut and file. Clogs up your grindstone if you are using a grinder. Tends to clog files too, but is easy to clean up. Aluminum deforms easily. If you accidentally hit the stamp you worked on against the granite or something hard, it will damage the profile. SS is fairly nice to work with (depends on the various grades) and is harder than aluminum. If you do a little searching here, you will find others making some of their own stamps. Some start with SS bolts from the hardware store. CS (carbon steel) works too, but will rust if it gets wet. If not cleaned and polished well, can leave CS particles in the leather, and you know what happens with iron and tannin. You get blue/black spots due to the chemical reaction. Tom

I wonder if a new tension spring would make any difference? Tom

Take the bobbin basket out and examine it for any stuck pieces of thread, or other type of damage that prevents increasing the bobbin tension. Sounds like something must be holding the spring open somehow, or bent. I'm not using the same machine as you are, but increasing my bobbin tension makes a huge difference (requires more) in the top tension required to pull the bobbin thread up. It sounds like you have little bobbin tension. Tom

Where you have to decrease the top tension to just about nothing, try increasing the bottom tension so you have more range to play with. Tom

Do a test with a number 23 and a 25 needle and see if either makes a difference. Chart I use recommends a 25 for 207 thread, which would make it easier to pull the thread up, which would mean reducing the top tension even further. 23 would make it harder to pull the thread up so would require more top tension. As to whether one or the other might work, only a test will prove it. Tom

I would do the sides of the box individually, back-stitching each end. Then I would go around the bottom in one continuous run. Similar on top if the top is stitched closed. Tom

5/16" is 7.9 mm. 12 mm is a hair under 1/2". That is quite a difference when looking at how well it will sew leather. Tom

It will open up cuts some. However with that radius, I don't think it should be a major problem unless you are using thin leather. I would make sure the final finish is well worked in to make sure the cuts are well sealed. But DON'T lay on the finish in heavy coats. I've done pencil cups that are 3.25" ID with 8/9 oz leather. Have no problem with the cuts opening up any amount. Tom

You could look at methods of wet forming to "mold" the top layer, then fill the back with foam or a paste like material. If you are into making any of your own jigs or tools, you could make a 2 part mold out of wood (or other convenient materials) long enough for the longest belt you are going to make. Moisten the leather, clamp it in place for an hour or two, then take it out and let it finish drying before you start working with it. The leather needs to be veg tan so it can be wet molded. Tom

Great idea. You can also use a stapler for seams on your mockup. Even use them on leather for keeping things lined up as long as the staple holes will be hidden. Tom

Really nice job! Making me jealous. Tom

Instead of a lap seam, you could try turning the gusset edge out, so both the front and the gusset edges are together, sticking out. The gusset will then naturally curl inwards instead of outwards. Depends on the style and appearance you are looking for. Tom

Most of the shiny button magnets are rare earth. Some better than others. To get good holding power, magnet to magnet works best. I have used a strip of steel, but it does not hold well. The more leather between the magnet and "keeper", the poorer the holding power. So now I default to magnet to magnet. Tom

Done! Going to post a picture? Tom

One of the things I have found in the small amount of hand stitching I've done is, don't pull the threads too tight. You can cut right through the leather. And another, longer stitches, and stay back from the edge a little more, which may not be applicable to your job. Put up a couple pictures so the experts can see front, back, thickness, how far from the edge, and thread size. Tom

If you search for magnets here, you will find several threads about their usage. I have contributed to some of them with my observations and experience. The only risk for magnets is around magnetic stripped cards. And that is fairly low, but not quite non-existent. It takes an alternating magnetic field to wipe magnetic storage. Magnets and electronics are not a problem. Smart phones and tablets used magnets in OEM covers and holsters to switch the screen off when the device is holstered or closed. The iPad covers attach to the iPad frame using strong magnets. SDRAM cards are safe too. It is time to stop perpetuating the myths about magnets and electronics with the exception of CRTs, especially colour. Don't show your kids how the picture deforms and colours distort on the old fashioned picture tubes, unless you are ready to throw it in the junk, or spend money to have it degaussed (if you can find someone that will do that now!). Tom

The Tandy pen leaves permanent marks too! Tom

The OP required approval so I suspect the whole thread does for some reason. Tom

$30 dollar cap! That's for a finished gift. Yours will be at least $130 (maybe $330) finished. Maybe it will be well worth the advertising and experience. Should video whoever opens it and see their expression for a $30 dollar gift! Will they know ahead of time you are doing a leather project? Tom

For item 2, the needle should be starting to move upward, hook has caught the needle thread, then switch to reverse. Make sure you have moved the lever full stroke. Go slow. Tom

I second using a good dead blow hammer. You can hold the stamp in the same spot with no bounce. If you get a deep enough impression, you can fit the stamp back in and touch up any light areas by tilting the stamp slightly in that direction. Obviously need a good stamp handle to do this. Tom