Northmount

To help reduce the wrinkling in the lining, form the leather as you glue the lining in so that it is curled about halfway to the position it will be when fully folded. I assume you are concerned with the flap. Note that the flap will not return to flat as it has to stretch the lining to do that. If you can't tolerate not being able to return to flat, then you can design (force) wrinkles in the location you want by gathering a little extra bulge in the lining as you glue it. Try it on some scrap pieces first to see if it is doing what you want it to. Tom

Some use 50/50. I think it is something you have to play with a bit to find what works for you. Also try a search here for thinning clear lac. I'm sure I have seen comments several times. Tom

Works fine for me. You likely have a root kit virus, pointing you to a rouge DNS server. Search for malwarebytes and install it and run a scan. Also download tdsskiller from support.kasper.com/5350 install it and run it to detect and fix. I had a similar thing a month or so ago, also related to google searches, but couldn't get any results from a google search. Hope this helps Tom

I second using a hair blade. Try the fine and coarse to see which looks the best. I'm tending to the fine blade, since the thistle is wispy. Tom

The catalog has some description. I'll abbreviate their descriptions. Live Oak - Best, top quality, long life, superior performance, excellent carving, tooling, dyeing, oiling qualities, American sourced Oak-Leaf - Good, premium import, excellent tooling and embossing, occasional blemishes and brands, fine hand carving leather Craftsman Oak - Economy, imported, medium firm temper, stamp, carve and dye well, low cost, may have brands, blemishes, insect bites. Tom

Check that your leather scraps are vegtan leather. Depending on the bag of scraps you got, there may be leather that isn't suitable for stamping. If you haven't cased the leather, read up on how to properly case leather before carving and stamping. See http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19121&hl=%20casing%20%20tutorial&st=0 casing tutorial by Hidepounder (Bob Parks). Dry leather doesn't take impressions well. Tom

It would be great if people would read the last few posts in a thread instead of just the first one or two. Look at post number 88 immediately above your post. Tom.

Try applying very light layer of glue to both pieces and let set a little before pressing them together. Or use contact cement, but still keep the layer of glue thin. For very porous surfaces, you may need two coats if the first coat soaks in and dries to quickly. Two thin coats are far better than a heavy coat. Remember for contact cement to let the glue set until almost dry (very little tack) before assembly. Press together with a roller after you have positioned the seam correctly. With most contact cements, you have little chance of repositioning the parts if you aren't lined up correctly. Avoid getting any glue on surfaces that are to be dyed and finished. Will show up after the dye or finish is applied. Tom

Try using a deglazer to remove anything on the surface that may be impeding the dye soaking into the leather. Also try using some oxalic acid to remove any stains. Otherwise, a lot of posts recommend thinning the dye, then building up the color in layers, allowing to dry and buffing well in between. Airbrush has also been recommended. Not too expensive so might be within your budget. Lots of info on airbrushing here if you want to do a search. Great job on the hat, and keep testing different ideas for dying the leather before actually doing the hat. Too many of us are in a big hurry and jump right in without any testing or practice. Tom Edit: Some do dampen the leather slightly before applying the dye. Some also give the leather a very light coat of oil (Neatsfoot or Extra Virgin Olive OIl (EVOO)). Neatsfoot will darken the leather more than EVOO.

Found a 270 page PDF called Bush Leather Work by Ron Edwards. http://blog.survival-goods.com/LIBRARY/Manuals/bushcraft%20leather%20work%20PDF.pdf Lots of info on lace cutting, plaiting, making pouches, bags, belts, etc. Hope you enjoy looking through it. Tom

Go for it. You may be able to work through a local college's continuing education program to help look after the logistics. Though that could lock you into a lower hourly rate for your time. Some high school con-ed programs may do the same. Also consider libraries. Tom

Descriptions and pictures might help you sell these kits. Reminds me of an old saying about "buying a pig in a poke" or something like that. Your location and shipping might help too! Tom

This is one of the best places to be! Happy New Year to Joanna and the rest of the crew that makes the site work, and Happy New Year 2013 to all the rest of you leather workers out there! Tom

Great job. Almost too good to give away! He should really appreciate it. Tom

I agree with Wiz. Need to be able to look down on your work. I have a neck and shoulder problem so becomes painful to work with arms raised. I dropped my table to as low as it can go. Recently obtained an old piano stool with screw height adjustment. So can easily adjust for what I am working on. A stool is better than a chair, nothing in the road of your elbows when sewing or reaching for something. The table needs to stay above your knees ... obviously! Tom

Nice, also practical. Tom

Files are okay for axes. Haven't ever used them on my leather tools. Tom

Or are you really looking for rectangular holes? I've seen them on some designer belts somewhere, where the buckle tang is wide and flat. I did a Google search and found some rectangular punches for watch straps, but that is small! There is a thread posted here, again about watch straps, but with some ideas. Also a link to a 2 x 4 mm pliers type punch in post number 8. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30979 Tom

Pretty great job for first time. I don't think I would even try it. I think your client will be very happy. Tom

Thanks for the tutorial. It is greatly appreciated. Tom

Light intensity decreases by the square of the distance. Place a light 1 foot from a surface. Then move the light to 2 feet from the same surface. The light falling on the surface has decreased to 1/4. (1/2x2). So as you have found, task lighting is more efficient. And yes, repainting your ceiling will make a big difference. The cost of electricity for high ambient overall lighting is high too. So the overall lighting needs to be bright enough for safe navigation and work. If you switch your lighting in banks, you can have light where needed, plus task lighting at your work stations. Unless you are using LEDs for task lighting, I would shut them off when not needed. 2 ea 8' fluorescent tubes are about 150 or more Watts depending on your particular model. So each pair uses 150 Watts x 8 hours divide by 1000 kWh per 8 hour period. 1.2 kWh. Multiply that by 30 days x your electric rate of say $0.20/kWh and you will have the cost per month. $7.20 per month. 4' are about half that. So total it up and see what it is costing you. Adjust days, hours, and your local rate accordingly. Then review what you really need. Tom My simple numbers didn't include the ballast, up to about 40 Watts for twin 8'. So get efficient ballasts to decrease your energy costs. Also consider that all adds to your air conditioning load if you have air conditioned work area.

This is really neat. Great idea. It's great to see other people's ideas and work. Gives great inspiration. Tom

Pretty nice job. Lacing looks really good. I need to up my lacing beyond double loop. Tom

Great job. My grandson was given a bike earlier this spring, with pink plastic seat, handle bars, and pedals. So the handle bars got painted black, the seat wrapped with leather, wet formed and tied with lace underneath. Still has pink pedals, but he was happy to see the rest of the pink disappear. Kids are sure funny about pink. Yours puts mine to shame! Tom

See the link right above your post. Post #82 Tom