wizard of tragacanth

Do you have any dapping tools? These are the cheapest ones that I could find on Amazon. There are many other sets. Some are only a dollar or two more than these but look better (straighter shafts, painted, etc.) so look around. https://www.amazon.com/Dapping-Punches-Silversmith-Staking-Punch/dp/B000RB311M/ref=sr_1_27?crid=3NQ7NLIM83BYO&keywords=doming+block&qid=1575305055&s=hi&sprefix=doming+%2Ctools%2C186&sr=1-27 nick I would probably go for these, since they come with a wooden holder. You don't need the metal block for you leather projects, but maybe in the future for some metal work. https://www.amazon.com/ToolUSA-14-Piece-Domming-Block/dp/B00FNZARYG/ref=pd_sbs_469_4/133-3862085-6210725?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FNZARYG&pd_rd_r=fa13f38f-8739-49b0-b453-6ba2067c822d&pd_rd_w=CxfoG&pd_rd_wg=CRt03&pf_rd_p=5873ae95-9063-4a23-9b7e-eafa738c2269&pf_rd_r=K6K5346PFGN0DFJE8S50&psc=1&refRID=K6K5346PFGN0DFJE8S50

I don't know if it is the best but I have an Iron Horse 3100. It is around 10 years old and doing fine. They call it a 24-hour "control room" chair. i paid ~$1300 for it at the time. No idea how much they are now. After owning several cheap, uncomfortable office chairs, I just said, to heck with it, and got something that I thought would be truly comfortable and last for years. I hated spending that much money but now I am glad that I did. I had tried some chairs at Relax the Back store that were even higher priced., like $1800 to $3000 and I think that I hit the peak of the price/performance curve with the Iron Horse. I don't use the head rest very often but I would not buy a chair that did not have one, just for the times that I want it. Mine has the HD Tilt Up arm style. I particularly like that feature. Sometimes I will have both arms up and out of the way, sometimes one up and one down, sometimes both down. I also like that the arms are super strong and stable, when in place, not like many of those wobbly arms on many office chairs. https://ironhorseseating.com/office-chair/products/ nick

To save time, you need a one step process... dye it first, then burnish with Tokonole. Done. I think Tokonole is available in clear, brown and black. I only have experience with clear. nick

Great story and nice work! nick

I watched the video above, then watched linked videos and finally, landed on this one. Really good.

Welcome to the forum. We are very lucky to have it. Please, post some pics of your work. We only know people through their work. nick

You found us! Welcome to the forum. You can learn everything that you want to know about leathercraft here. I remember how happy I was when I found this place. Have fun! I think that you will want to hang out in the Historical Reenactment area but I have never visited there myself. nick

Nice stuff!

If you are just doing small stamps like the one that you are showing, it may be safer (more controllable) and easier to use an arbor press for that. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html nick

Looks interesting but it is difficult for me to see very well. Maybe you could post a larger image. I think maybe 600x800 would be good. I think. nick

Interesting design and colors. nick

What is it that you did not like about horse hide, if I may ask? nick

Just brain storming here but you could inset some neoprene panels for contact patches directly under your sit bone. Make a pleasing shape, like a couple of tear drops that follow the contour of the seat. Back up the neoprene with leather of course, to keep it dimensionally stable. I saw rolls and panels of neoprene on Amazon. It come in 1/8" and 1/4" thick. Just search Amazon for neoprene. nick

Never done this myself but I agree with Rockoboy. I would not sand it at all, that would really mess it up. Start with de-glazing and re-dying. Re-dye using Fiebing's Pro dye. Buff it well and I think that most of your scratches will seem to disappear. I would not try to soften the leather at all. These are not sling seats. The firmness is for support as it would be for a wooden chair but just in a leather surface. For a finish, I would use an Automotive Leather Seat Conditioner. Unlike neatsfoot oil, that stuff is made to sit on and is not as likely to ruin your clothing. nick

Wouldn't denatured alcohol be the best cleaner for an airbrush? I don't know, just asking. nick

That is a gorgeous project. I am not a skull guy myself, but the whole design works. I love everything about it... the muted colors, the unfinished edges, the carving, the "antique" buckle matching the colors... everything. nick

There are definitely arguments on both sides of this issue. I have had some previous co-workers that were very disappointed when I forgot to put my stamp on, but these people knew me on a personal level. OCD people probably see a stamp as a blemish, especially generic stamps like mine. Beautiful stamps are probably much more welcome, such as JLS's stamp. If they are not OCD, then perhaps they are agents, possibly International and wear watches and clothing with no marks of origin. Whatever... it is a custom product and that means giving them what they want. nick

Hey, wait a minute... aren't you the one that brought this up... accompanied by a pic of two 1911's ??? I'm confused... as usual. nick

Shower curtain... what a great idea! One may be able to find a shower curtain with an interesting design. It would be waterproof and the proper thickness as well. In the U.S. we call these Dopp kits. If you buy one at the store, it will be lined with vinyl. Mine is lined with solid yellow but you could be creative. nick

Great idea!

If you have the real gun, why not use the real gun? I do this frequently, especially if I am only making a one-off. However, you could make an unlimited number of holsters from the same gun, if you wanted to. It's not going to harm it. I just wrap the gun in a single layer of Saran wrap and wet mold by hand (or in a vacuum bag), NOT in a shop press. nick

Start with Tandy tools but avoid the cheap versions. For example, Tandy has two different rotary punches (I am not saying that you even want one of these right now, this is just an example). The $18 one is made of stamped steel. You might get enough work out of it for one project but the holes may be sloppy! The $50 Craftool Pro version is expensive but it is a good tool and worth the money You may be able to find the same heavy, metal version on Amazon for less. It is worth a look. A slot punch is another example. The $13 cheap shiny silver punch that looks like chrome, is a poor tool. The $40, Craftool Heavy Duty Oblong punch, would be the level that you would be looking for. You will need a cutting mat or board. Cheap kitchen, poly cutting boards will work for this, or a poundo board from Tandy. You need cutting tools. You can start with a an x-acto knife for small projects and a utility knife for big stuff. If you are stamping, you will need a granite (or similar) slab to back up your work. You need the appropriate sized needles and thread for the particular project. You need a way to mark your stitching holes and a way to make the holes. You will need some dye. I recommend Fiebing's Pro Dye. You need a finish coat. As an example, use Satin Shene for a low gloss or Resolene for a high gloss. That's just two out of many available finishes. The list goes on, but I am getting tired. Watch some YT videos on the types of projects that you want to make and pay attention to the tools that they use. Have fun! nick

Ohhhh, Buddy!

Frodo... wow, what a wild idea! You think up some cool stuff. nick

Oh, I really like this one! The contrasting red belt loop with your maker's mark is a great touch. Only the owner will see it but it really adds to the custom feel. nick