Constabulary

Sometimes the hand wheel is too tight (pressing against the machine body). The hand wheel usually has 2 set screws and one screw on the shaft end. Loosen them all a little bit and move the hand wheel an bit to the right. Then tighten all screws but be careful with the one on the shafts end - this is often the one that s too tight! If your machine has a needle positioner you most likely have to remove it from the shaft first.

Just found this while looking for other things (depth gauge for router) https://www.ebay.de/itm/303149957400 Could be useful for larger projects. Seems to have a quick release.

There he is - the inventor Thanks for jumping in here and sharing more details.

I´d lower the needle bar a little bit maybe 0.5mm or a little more. I´d also replace the needle plate - looks like this one missed the hardening process.

the belts are not the point - that is just temporarily

This is not my idea - the pictures come from German sewing machine forum (I have permission to post them here). For sure it depends on the servo motor it self but it this is a rather smart idea I think wen you have (space) issues mounting the speed reducer under the table. What do you guys think of this solution?

So I have installed a new needle bar guide because the Singer NB is a lot shorter than the original W&W NB. Interestingly the NB guide came from a Durkopp machine and has the same diameter as the Singer and W&W NB. Really interesting how parts pretty much remained the same for decades and that different sewing machine Co´s followed the old W&W / Singer specs. I really love to figure out when parts are interchangeable. The long tube on top of the NB (see above pictures) was not a NB guide it rather is a dust protector for the NB and had a wider diameter so nothing I could use. Surprise #3: You still find needle plates and feed dogs that work with this old 51W machines While playing with google searches I figured the needle plates of the GOLDEN WHEEL 810 pretty much look the same. So I ordered some cheap sets on Ebay for for testing (hell they are dirt cheap). This was the 1st set - it fits but needs modification. Feed dog needs an oblong screw hole for height adjustment and the outer ridge of hook is touching the needle plate (remember I installed an Durkopp hook that was not designed for this machine) but needle plate can me modified. https://www.ebay.de/itm/143143427599 This was the 2nd set I have ordered and it works w/o problems I only had to play with the feed dog height. https://www.ebay.de/itm/143164778742 Hook works a lot better with this set and yet no modification is required! Surprise #4: Damn - there are even hooks for the Golden Wheel 810 / 820 that looks very much like the Singer 111 hook. They have the same needle deflector but no shaft instead they have the same "2 prong mount" as my original 51W hook and the Durkopp hook I´m currently using. So I´ll gave it a try. For less than $10 you can do much wrong. GEH-820 hook Hook is on the way already and should arrive within the next few days. Machine already works good for far... (I know needle too thick) BTW - I have removed the limiter from the stitch length lever (2nd post, last picture) and I now get approx 5 SPI. with NP / Feed dog set #2.

yeah - someone definitely tried to "Pfaffirize" it! Not very well done - obviously. I would be pissed too!

Most likely these machine all come from the same factory in China (Pfaff, Mauser, Typical, Global... and so forth) just with a badge of the specific "Name owner". Pfaff no longer produces these machines in Germany - if that matters. So quality wise I doubt there is a big difference between the "Names" ( I do not say manufactures). Some pictures would be nice.

NECCHI is an Italian brand, nothing wrong with it. But before you buy it make sure the machine is fully functional and the reverse lever works as you expect. You may have a hard time finding spare parts. Some parts may be interchangeable with Singer 45K, Adler 4 / 5 or Adler 104 /105 but some like the stitch length lever seem to be very unique.

I´d contact Uwe through his web shop / website. BTW - he has a travel note on his shop: Travel notice: Items ordered July 15-31 will ship in August.

the stitch length adjuster looks kind of odd - the Adler 5 has a different stitch length adjuster. I´m not sure but could be that it has been modified - or - but I have no proof - it could be a NECCHI made machine. I have a German language Adler 5 manual send me a PM if you are interested in the manual.

Seiko CH-8 http://www.seiko-sewing.co.jp/en/products/chseries/ I have seen them with Singer 45xx or Consew tag as well

not really a sewing machine. It´s a sack darning machine

looks like the machine has not been used extensively. Since this is the latest model of the Class 30 with "squared casting" I would not expect serious issues or lots of wear but of course - you never know.

The 332 needle has 2 grooves , the long has to face left and the short to the right. You can also use 135x17 needles - same here but the 135x17 (or 135x16 for leather) has a so called scarf which has to face right (towards the hook).

If it helps - I have 2 used OEM Dürkopp with PN 249400. One is complete with spring and 2 screws the other has no screws and no spring. Don´t know how good they are but you can have them for free - I just ask for shipping costs.

Major different is the gearbox and thread lever regulator other than that ... what Jimi said Maybe the attached file already works for you. I have another 29K71 - 73 manual / parts list but I cannot compress it enough for uploading. Parts singer 29K71.pdf EDIT: this is the other one - I uploaded it already: https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=142508

The thinner the material the better it usually works for binding edges. There was a special binding attachment for leather strips for the Adler 4 / 5 and Singer 45K but I think its tricky to work with. I have attached a picture from an old Adler manual. I remember LW member JIMI (pretty sure he will jump in ere soon) has shown this a while ago but I have to look for his post. Or how about thin faux leather strips for binding edges? https://www.etsy.com/listing/624163856/38-12-34-oder-1-double-folded-vegan?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=faux+leather+strip&ref=sr_gallery-1-2 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neotrims-Faux-Leather-Leatherette-25mm-2-5yards/dp/B01DPTXW7U MacCulloch & Wallis has a wide rangeof edge binding materials: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/c/750/bindings-leather-trims?p=1&q=750&sz=96&me=sz

I guess machines based on the Singer 153 should have the same gears, like Seiko CW-8 or Cowboy CB227R / Consew 227 and similar. Check with Toledo Sewing Machines in OH or Keystone Sewing Machines in PA - pretty sure they can help you.

Not sure if it helps but for the Singer 45K and Adler 4 / 5 there were certain feet for sewing this kind of belt. A while ago I posted it somewhere else... let me check... EDIT: found it but you most likely cannot sew the round tips with them

Look at the pictures - this could end as a real bargain! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-INDUSTRIAL-1-SINGER-WALKING-FOT-INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE/333260772849?hash=item4d97e3d5f1:g:LCUAAOSwmvBdIy7d

that probably explains why I´m kind of "Singer crazy" though I live in the country of Pfaff and Adler

Indeed! I found 2 or 3 vintage Singers I would be interested in

Agree what kgg said AND you have not pulled the thread over the small hook (prong) in the tension unit - see this Video. I mentioned the small hook in my post from June 27th.