bland

I can see each stitch and it looks quite thin. I think over time with weather and use it would become unsightly and start coming off. Are you looking to build a saddle using this technique? Here is an old post on covering swells. It contains some good information. There are some other posts on this forum that might be helpful.

You want to sew a swell cover but not put a welt in it and it is not a fitted cover? Not sure I know what you are describing. I have seen no welt covers with no welts, braided covers and covers with welts but they were all fitted. Do you have pictures of what you are describing?

I have used all kinds of stuff. Sheep skin, felt pads, paint brushes, flux brushes... What I have found works the best for me is a squeeze bottle and a plastic putty knife. The solvent will slowly eat the plastic putty knife but they are cheap.

The Juki 1508NH is more heavy duty than the others listed and has a longer stroke. I have the 1508NH and have used the Cobra class 20. The Cobra is probably a little easier to use starting out and significantly less money. Both are great machines. There are a lot of good threads to comparing machines one is below.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190#overlay

I think it depends on the application. PVA glue can extend your working time. Generally once you stick rubberized contact cement you are committed. You can apply PVA glue to wet leather. Contact cement doesn't stick to wet leather very well. You can wet a piece after applying contact cement and it will stick pretty well. I doesn't create voids in edges when slicking them. Sometimes contact cement will pull out on the edges when you rub them. PVA glue needs longer curing time. Contact cement has a stronger initial bond. I use both at times but usually turn to the rubberized contact cement 85-90% of the time.

A double shoulder would more than likely work. Where are you located? There may be local shops that can help you.

What design are you using? Some designs lend themselves to lining better tan others and what type of lining you use. Do you want a drop in lining? Are you using a leather lining or fabric lining?

With the items you have listed you probably looking for more of a medium size machine. I would suggest a cylinder arm machine. Lots of them out there. Here are just a few cylinder arm machines. Juki 1341, Yamata 1341, Cobra class 26, Techsew 2600, Cowboy 227, Techsew 2750, Consew 287 and many more. That said I have been very happy with my Cobra class 4 but it does not do lighter weights as well. I have a flatbed Juki 1508NH that sews lighter leathers better but it is still a heavy duty machine. I probably should look at getting a medium sized machine.

Unfortunately that looks too far gone to ever be a serviceable satchel again. Maybe clean it up as a conversation piece. I think somebody could pattern it and make a replica. I don't think there are even any salvageable panels. Cool bag though.

I have used some acrylic paint and Tan Kote to set off a dark dyed project. I kind of like the metallic gold and silver. I have also used acrylic paint like an antique on kids belts to add color to the tooling. It is kind of a mess.

After a move it is fun to get your shop set back up! Your radio strap looks good!

There are all manner of border stamps. Every vendor has a wide variety. Here are just few examples. https://www.barrykingtools.com/borders.htm https://tandyleather.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=border*+stamps* https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/cp_/shop-now/hand-tools/stamping-carving/stamps

I cut the top to size and over cut the liner and trim on belts and straps.

Dwight the angle depends on the dimensions of the stamp. You can see in the first photo there is maybe a 5 degree difference between these two stamps. You can run them a couple different ways. One being along a straight line, legs resting on the line. The other is more of a vertical run along the edge of the panel. Think more like arrowheads on a belt. Figure out your angle and use it all the way up the first side then run the second all the way up as well, then the third... As far as the camouflage tool you can run it with the legs on the line or you can run the arc on the line and get a little different look.

Have you checked some of the site sponsors? There are probably others. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread.html https://leathermachineco.com/product/1oz-spools-premium-thread-all-colors/

You might check with some re-enactment makers to see where they get their trees. Here is one site, I'm sure there are others as well. http://www.borderstatesleatherworks.com/ Bowden Saddle Tree list a McClellan tree on their 2019 price list as a specialty tree. https://saddletree.com/p/price-list

I have been happy with the Barry King basket stamps. There are quite a few different designs, styles and sizes.

Weaver also has a stainless steel 4 inch buckle but it is only one tongue. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/00100-ss-4/100-buckle-one-tongue/pr_63767 Do they have to be double tongued? I have made both some people really like the single tongue. Now that I see the stainless buckles I may have to order some.

Weaver Leather has some. It has also been discussed here before. maybe there is a nugget to help you find the ones you are looking for. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/00100-np-2-4/100-buckle-two-tongue/pr_481

Very nice!

I would not say that I have mastered the round knife. It was a little scary to use at first. I'd use it for a while and then put it away for a while. Probably for the last 6 months I use it most of the time. Making long parallel cuts would be a challenge. I still generally use a strap cutter or draw gauge depending on the leather thickness for belts and longer straps and I usually cut multiple at a time. I have used my round knifes to get the initial straight edge on a side or double shoulder. I have used it for shorter straps for headstall and billets for bag closures. Primarily the longer straight cuts are on bag bodies and projects like that. Being able to use one knife during cutout is definitely a time saver.

Learning to use a round knife changed my life. Very versatile. Tight curves, long straight cuts without a straight edge, skiving, trimming... I have an old Midas Leather round knife I inherited and a Master Tool from Weaver. I have been happy with both.

Very nice Chuck!

My cutting table is on wheels so I can push it up against the wall when I'm cutting smaller stuff. Put shelfs or cabinets everywhere. Never enough storage.