DJole

First, what bevelling tool (or tools) are you using? If you can give us a make and number (like, say, B60 Craftool Beveler Stamp) that would help us figure out if it's the right tool for the job or something else.

Through serendipitous web links, I found Bellroy's site. Bellroy is a leather company based down in Australia, and they have a great variety of leather goods for sale. Among them is a slim wallet. The web page <https://bellroy.com/slim-your-wallet-new> contains an animated photo of the wallet pattern, cut out in pieces, and how it is assembled. I found myself watching the repeating video over and over for about 10 minutes, noting different details.

You'd probably like my wallet, Gabriel-- Here's the pix: <http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/Wallet/wallet.htm> My other leather stuff is at the link next to my name down at the bottom of this posting.

Yes, deeper cut lines will add dimension -- but you have to plan the leather thickness accordingly. I've found that a modeling spoon can help round things out, if the leather is properly cased. Take a look at what this fellow is doing with his modeling tools, with a sort of repousse: http://blog.leathercraftlibrary.com/?s=Modeler I've only done a bit of that kind of thing myself, so I'm not much of an expert on that. Also, Gabriel-- I'm a non-Western tooler myself. I'd love to see the kinds of things you're doing, since we might have similar interests.

Those are great! I like that French skiver. The curlicues from the fork handle just make it more French.

A nice understated holster and belt. Nice work to get the extra 20 bucks in there!

You're using a textured pear shader, right? Is that a deliberate choice or because you don't have a smooth pear shader? All that texture seems to muddy the shapes.

That's a lovely story and a great looking wallet with heart and soul. I can only hope that some of my stuff can last that long and be treasured like that!

The first thing that comes to my mind is the "casting" of the thread. One needle goes through a hole, and then the other thread goes OVER or UNDER the first thread before the second needle is pushed through the hole. Depending on the direction of the slanted hole, going over or under should make that slanted stitch work. Maybe that's the problem?

The first time I ever touched leather tools was 7th grade shop class, back in the late 1970s. I still have the luggage tag I made from that shop class. No, I have no pictures of it. Joined the SCA while in high school (a local college chapter) and saw leather work, but didn't do any of my own. There was no leather shop closer than 6 hours, and I had no money anyway. Time passes-- through the 80s and 90s, I started doing some leather stuff, for various costume party and such, picking up a few (very few) basic leather tools. A Tandy shop was only 5 minutes away, the first time I'd ever actually seen a leather store, to handle hides and tools on my own. Not much time or money to invest, and only some interest-- I made a knife sheath, a belt and some bracers. I didn't know anybody else who did leather work, and there was no Internet yet. That's really what I would call the first time. Final year of my MA program I decided to make a book bag, decorated with medieval motifs (and with an Anglo Saxon inscription). I realized that I kind of liked doing this, and I wasn't too bad (for not really knowing what I was doing.) More years pass -- I got married, more grad school in Eastern Canada. I kept my tools and a few pieces of leather, but didn't do a whole lot with it-- time constraints, expense, and so on. Moved here to Western Washington, and started making stuff for friends. Much of what I do isn't really standard stuff (belts, holsters, sheaths, etc.) I realized more tools were needed, and I started collecting hides (much like quilters collect fabric). Having a Tandy store across town was very convenient. Having Internet access is even better! So it's been a gradual climb, and I've gotten gradually better. I won Grand Prize in the Western Washington State Fair a few years back (with this leather box), much to my humble surprise. That's a nice confidence builder, I must say!

You should take a look at Leodis Leather's YouTube videos (done by Ian Atkinson up in the North of the UK). He discusses this very topic and points out that special dedicated leather tools are not always needed. Here is one of his videos(The Tools You need for Leather Work): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1pAMZQpYFA Here is another (Top 25 Recommended Leather Tools): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTfMRaVyCd4

You could get it engraved on a big metal ring and then mount it onto the maul. Just watch out for Smeagol trying to make off with his precious, though...

It's funny what gets people interested in leatherwork. For some, it's playing with cool machines and tools! Welcome aboard, and happy sewing!

That is very nice! Lovely floral work, and a spectacular dye job! I would like to know how you did the dye work. I think that I can guess the steps, but I am not certain.

If you live in California, you may be able to locally source some non-water-based dyes if you are close to Santa Fe Springs. The Angelus compay is based there. Address: Angelus Direct 12060 Florence Ave. Santa Fe Springs CA 90670 U.S.A. Website: https://angelusdirect.com/collections/angelus-dye-1

Very nice work! I see that 2 of them use metal rings for the lacing and one only uses holes through the leather. Which do you think is the more comfortable and secure system?

Maybe this fellow is still around in Tuscany? From an older thread (2016): italiantanner 7 posts Location:Italy Posted February 3, 2016 Hello! I'm writing from Tuscany, Italy. I'm the owner of an old tannery, La Ruota SRL, founded in 1952. We produce bovine leathers, full grain and full vegetable tanned. Double Shoulders, Double Butts, Backs, Bellies, Calfskins, Splits, etc. We can ship Worldwide. Quality 100% Guarantee Visit our e-shop at www.leather-eshop.com. Thank you!!!!! Simone. post-69765-0-05040600-1454510569_thumb.j

I like the inverted carving style. You have a nice touch for it! Welcome to the forum!

Are you using a strap cutter of some sort, or just trying with a straight edge and a knife?

If you only want Campbell's, there was this thread back a few years ago which came up only with a supplier in France < this bookbinder supplier might have what you want: <http://www.talasonline.com/Irish-Linen-Thread> Try here maybe "WAXED POLYESTER-LINEN; Irish polyester-linen from Henry Campbell. Waxed in the USA." --> <http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=WAX165> Will Crawford linen thread (made in Belfast, Ireland) do for you? If so, it's 4 cord waxed linen, available here <http://www.basketmakerscatalog.com/waxed/wlinen.htm> and here <http://www.royalwoodltd.com/cat14-17ar.htm>. I have used it in some of my projects.

Ok, got both panels tooled, dyed, and assembled. Here's the result, just sitting on the proper place of a mask:

I'm making more sets of forehead "crash pads" for longsword fencing. The forehead is a frequent target, and a sword to the mask can leave some dents! But this is a piece of armor that attaches to the mask (with foam padding underneath) that will help cushion the blow. And since it's armor for swordfighting, why not put a swordsman on the piece? This man in his fancy pants is standing in a guard, ready to strike a fearsome blow. Note the swivel knife for scale, and the printed woodcut to the right, which was the traced source for this. Working in miniature is a pain!

A lot of what people identify as "Celtic" (especially knotwork) is actually Anglo Saxon or Germanic in origin. Viking art is often pretty distinct from the Anglo Saxon stuff Looking on internet image searches, If you want the actual historical motifs and designs, you will have a difficult time figuring out what is the real stuff. Or you could look for the British Museum Pattern books, which use line drawings taken from historical artifacts from the cultures in question: Early Celtic Designs by Ian Stead and Karen Hughes is a nice collection of actual Celtic designs from the 5th C BC to the 1st century AD (thus avoiding the Celtic/Anglo Saxon knotwork). I've got this one on my shelf in the other room. The British Museum Pattern books also include the following (in no particular order): African Designs Ancient Egyptian Designs Early Medieval Designs Islamic Designs North American Indian Designs Roman Designs Greek Designs Iain Bain's famous Celtic Knotwork book is a nice mixture of historical patterns and instructions of how to make your own. He also points out that what we call "Celtic" when referring to knotwork is a conglomeration of cultural art motifs. Looking at illustrations from medieval illuminated manuscripts is a great way to get ideas, too. (see here: http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/NativityPix/LeatherNativity.htm) Woodcuts are great for leather, since the lines used to both cut wood and leather are similar (<http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/SerpentBox/SerpentBox.htm> I've used the Bayeux Tapestry as well. (http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/Pouch/CometPouch-1.htm) You could do a google search for "celtic motifs" or "anglo saxon motifs" and get better results than when searching for "XX art" You could also look for books from the Dover Pictorial Archive (such as Viking Designs or Celtic and Old Norse Designs). These ones are not for the person who wants authenticity, though. That might be enough to get you going for a while.

I love fine woodwork, and that is some FINE woodwork. What a handsome, colorful place for your colorful thread to hang out in!

What first came to my mind when I read this was this: