DJole

You should be able to get some medical help for that...

What a clever contraption you have there!

If you can attach some photographs of the leather piece that has the problem, that will help us. The problem could be a number of things, but looking a picture will help us discover the most likely solution.

But I bet the weather down in Rhodes is drier and warmer. It looked like a great time was had by all and sundry. All those people dragged their tooling slabs to the convention? That's dedication for you.

I see that Nemo found the diver... Nice execution of design, for a truly unique clock!

I recently was gifted a rondel dagger simulator (Cold Steel model) in my longsword class. This particular dagger design has a pretty, floral/star design on the rondels, which actually are rather jagged and pointy (as you will see below). Those rondels can scratch and scrape a bare arm. I read that some people modify these by taking them to a belt sander and grinding off those tips, but I decided to do it differently. I wrapped the lower rondel (the one most likely to scrape a person's arm) with a leather "boot", kind of like a steering wheel wrap. Then, I thought that I should make a sheath for it, so that I could actually carry it and even use it during longsword practice (as a secondary, backup weapon). But this dagger is triangular in cross section, and those rondels don't lie flat, so what kind of sheath would work? Also, the balance point (where the knife will hang blade-down correctly) is actually on the rondel itself, so any working sheath will have to go past that. But the rondel is round... so...what to do? My brain said, "It's got to go into a little cup, kind of like an inverted ice cream cone (the cake kind, not the conical sugar cone kind.)" A bit of research later on confirmed that this "cup" method is actually shown in medieval art, which made me pleased. And of course I have to break out my tools, to make it look nice: I decided to lace up the triangular portion (since it will likely see some wear), and I actually used my filigree punches for decoration here. The color is a British Tan antique paste, from Tandy, which I have had for...hmm...many years now! I am pleased with the barrel stitching (the round bottom of the cup)-- I have nearly got it figured out! The triangular part (to the left) is not yet riveted to the cup (on the right) in this photo. Here is another shot of the dagger, resting in the cup: And now for a shot of the "boot" around the rondel: The boot also creates a nice friction fit against the sides of the cup. The last thing to do will be to create the hanging loops -- I'm thinking of some way to do a dual system, so I can hang it vertically or horizontally.

If you find out, you will let us know, right? ;-) I'm curious to know what this thing is called, too.

Try asking the folks at Ohio Travel Bag if they can identify this for you. They have a LOT of specialty hardware. Link here: <https://ohiotravelbag.com/contact.aspx> Perhaps the Buckle Guy can locate this piece. Link here: <https://www.buckleguy.com/contact-us/>

At first I was wondering if the title of this post referred to you, but now I see that it's a burly machine!

Very nice -- It's a beautiful piece of work aside from the tooled design, and the understated accent of the blossoms really adds to the beauty.

No apologies for your English is needed here. We're looking at the leather, not your grammar or vocabulary! ;-) and you have some nice stuff -- you use the geometric stamps like a master!

I have nightmares (figuratively speaking, of course!) about trying to line up designs like that camo stamp around a circle. It's quite the job to get them lined up and evenly spaced. That's a nice job with the meander tool, and an excellent solution for terminating each end.

I see now -- I couldn't see that those were gussets, and now I understand. It's an interesting way to do a change pocket.

That is very well done. It's so smooth, and balanced, with nice color harmony. Marvellous stitching, too! I can't figure out how the little pouch is stitched onto the liner-- can you explain the pattern?

That's a nice looking squirrel and branch. Good modeling and excellent coloring! The texturing on the backgrounds is a nice touch, too. And I suppose it even works for its intended purpose, so it's all a win!

Completed it today. Here are all the straps, sewn and mounted: I have the ties installed -- it kind of looks like a squid here. I modified the design somewhat --instead of just splitting the strap in two, I put on a piece of veg-tan and split that instead. And instead of two, I decided that using four strips made for a stronger bond, and a better looking knot. So I wrapped the ends together with wire, not only to lock them together but as a bit of decoration. I made a flat knot where the scabbard straps cross (bottom left) which looks nice and neat. And here's what it looks like all tied up, hanging from a chair back. I am satisfied with it...I got to practice more leather skills and end up with something I've wanted for a long time.

I have always wanted a laced sword scabbard, but the amount of work (and wood working experience) required to create a scabbard is daunting. I have a sword, but it already has a scabbard, so what to do? Finally, I got a brainstorm -- I'll just make a sleeve which goes AROUND the existing scabbard, and that'll do the trick! So here's the original tooled design, a key-work panel on the sleeve, with Fiebing HiLighter (modified slightly from the original design, taken from a church in Wales): Geometrics are a pain...but to get it right, go SLOWLY with the swivel knife, and use a straight edge wherever possible. Here's a mock-up of what it will look like, when all done: All that intricate lacing...it's painstaking work -- you can't really cut the slits until you have the belt strips ready to mock it up. The triangular piece to the bottom of the picture is a type of "buckle." The other strap (top center) will end in two strips, which will tie through the holes in the "buckle." It's period -- some medieval art features scabbards done that way. I also decided to cut a 'window' in the wide middle strap to hide less of the nice tooling. Here's the back -- I'm using a baseball stitch to butt-stitch the pieces together, using flat lacing. I'd forgotten how tedious lacing can be; you really have to pay attention to avoid twisting the lace, or getting the pattern wrong (only had to undo two stitches so far!) Here you can see the interlaced straps, linked through each other. I didn't realize it, but the baseball stitching doesn't close the edges as closely as other stitches, so I think the hanger might be a bit loose on the scabbard itself. However, I can glue a 'shim' of thin leather inside the hanger sleeve, and that should snug it right down.

Those are some hefty leather elbows! Do they have three pieces of Kydex on them? I think I am going to do something similar these elbows I made, but putting the Kydex inside: 1) The leather alone isn't stiff enough to protect the 3 important bone points. 2) Once could, of course use cuir boulli, but then the nice carving would be lost, and the natural finish on the leather would be lost too. 3) So I'm going to install Kydex inside them. I don't think I can do it with one solid piece -- Kydex doesn't dish like metal, and I suspect that I would end up with wrinkles. But I'm thinking one piece with relief cut to form the curves, or two pieces, mirroring the leather pieces sewed together here.

Nice work-- look at all that careful, contrasting stitching! A lovely warm golden brown color, too.

That's some lovely work! I like the curves in the border design, and that asymmetric closing strap looks great!

That's really nice--- for both you and your community! What you display here is the kind of thing that should make a lot of people say, "Hey, I should be able to do that!"

That's a nice looking gorget piece there. As a person who wears a gorget (I got stabbed in the throat just last week -- hurray for throat armor!), I like the protection of this one more than your previous one. I envy your use of the machine to stitch all this together! Also, for the elbows to really work, they probably need to be dished if they're going to protect all three points of the elbow. That dishing is what I'm working with on a gorget project of my own: . I'm doing articulating lames -- this is the front. Using the heat gun, and my fingers, I bent the lip of the top lame over. Just like dishing metal, I had to go back and re-work the C-curve of the lame. I still need to go back and fine-tune some flatter spots. But I found the articulation would be better if I could also dish the Kydex: It's a subtle dish, but the lames curve into each other. It sure takes a long time, though! This is where a form would be useful. I know that Kydex can be dished into a deeper bowl shape, but I don't think I want to try doing it by hand!

Angelus leather paint is acrylic, so it should act as a resist to any dye you apply over it. The dye should not affect the paint color --but you should test this, of course, using a scrap piece of the same leather as your project. If the results are not what you wanted, then you should do the dye first. For the project below, I didn't use paint--I used the colored dyes first (that white is actually Fiebeing's notorious white dye, which actually worked well for the weathered, old-fashioned look of this project.) The eyebrows and mouth were done with a fine point black Sharpie marker. Then I carefully applied Fiebing's Resolene over the dyed areas (white, red, black and other), let it dry, then used antique black for the rest of the wallet. The antique wiped clean from the resist-covered dyed areas. <http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/Samurai Wallet/SamuraiWallet.htm> I used white acrylic paint in another project: <http://djole.altervista.org/djole/Publications/Leather/Pouch/CometPouch-1.htm>. But I didn't use antiquing. I think the antique dye should be first, then the paint (since that will cover any dyed areas), then the finish (Resolene or whatever).

Try safety pins, perhaps? They should lock the elastic in place.

Assuming that you have already made stitching holes in the leather, you should be able to stretch the elastic then push pins (like for fabric sewing) through both the hole and the elastic to hold it in place. I did this while stitching a cloth liner inside a bag, and I had to find a way to keep it taut while stitching.