mikesc

Bernina what..( they made both domestic and industrial )..what was the motor spec.. Solar panels output DC..to get that to AC ( which is , I presume, what the motor you fitted would be running on ) that DC needs to be put through an inverter..If the inverter is faulty* or not giving a stable output*, then a motor could "burn out" due to that.. *You'd need to measure ( with a meter ) the output of the inverter to know.. Motors can also "burn out" because someone forces the machine, real easy to let the magic smoke out, I got a free Singer 20U because the guy who was selling it plugged it in in front of me and the magic smoke came out of the motor ( industrial clutch motor 220v 500w ) ..for him that meant the machine was "scrap" ( he didn't know that you can simply replace the motor on an industrial machine, even though it is obviously separate from the head ) so he asked me if I would be kind enough to take it away, and save him the trip to the dump as his car was to small to fit the machine and the table in..he even offered me money to do so, I smiled and said no to the money, but that of course I'd be willing to take the "scrap" machine off his hands..I had driven 160 kms to look at it ( which he knew )..fitted another motor, now it runs beautifully. :) Without knowing more details about your machine, the motor, the power supply, no one can really say if it was more likely to be the motor, or the power supply.

Superb..made me smile with pleasure ..love seeing beautifully done work.

Damn..you have the only device that I do not have any experience on at all ( I don't run macs or iphones, but I can find my way around them ..I have a lot of devices, but only the linux ones are allowed to talk to the web, the android ones are well locked down, and the windows ones are "airgapped" )..and don't wish to have..only suggestion I have is ..what size ( in data ) are the images when you click "image properties" **( if chromebooks have such a dialogue option" ) ..do you have anywhere "shrink for web" or equivalent ? **I just checked the images in your links above..they are all nearly 4 megabytes each..way way over the size that the boards here will accept..your limit here is around 1.4 meg's total per post ..and to be safe it is best not to try to upload in any one post images that total over 1.25 megs some operating systems "lie" about how big images are..yours are each nearly three times bigger ( in data ) than the total image allowance per post. Nothing has changed here, re the image data size allowed per post ( since I became a member ) something must have changed on your chromebook..what ? only Google will know what and when and why they changed it. edit for typo..originally I wrote "only Google will know what ad when and why they changed it.".. weird huh .

Excellent..loving your work. :)

Images with no copyright ? ( all images, everywhere ( despite what many people and search engines think ) are copyright automatically unless the artist themselves says that they are releasing them as copyright free )..there is clipart. For anyone reading.."I found it on the web" doesn't make it legal ..or moral...unless the artist says to you in writing, that you can use it..you cannot ..artists cannot take " credited to" to the supermarket to buy groceries, nor to pay the rent or mortgage...none of us work for free. Yes..my main business for the last 45 years has been creating and selling my images/ designs.

Superb..and agree totally with Lobo..

I'm guessing it means based on pre printed tattoo designs..the designs are called "flash"..tattoo "artists" buy them in if they don't make their own designs..search tattoo flash on the web ..you'll find zillions of designs to download. Nice detailing :) David..have you tried any filigree or inlay work..looking at how you handle small detailed work , ( this and your "leatherman" ) if you have n't ?.I think you'd be great at it.

What are you trying to upload images from ? PC ( windows ? which windows ? , linux? Mac , Phone ( android ? iphone ? )..what can be suggested to get you around the "upload" problem is dependent on what your platform/ operating system is.

I don't make clicker dies, but, I 'm sure I am not the only one thinking the question is .. Define what you mean by "reasonable" re price and delay.

now that is neat :)

I suspect that the lack of replies is down to that not many people here make or repair baseball gloves, and they may not have seen your post..anyone else advising on a machine or machines would be talking out of their field. Two..re making stitching holes with a laser ..given the fact that you'd be trying to laser through more than one layer at once, the problem of keeping everything ( the layers ) aligned would probably mean that using a laser to make stitching holes would not be a good idea..

Try using a "toothed belt", they fit a little deeper into the pulleys, and they go around the smaller diameter pulleys much better as the inside of the belt is not being compressed .

Not in the UK..but there are not many here who are in France..so ..as like many Irish I spent many years in the UK, I'll tag along. Lot of us with machines have a lot of cones of thread around, if they're not stored in boxes or in a cupboard they can get dusty and contaminated and they wont unwind nicely when put on the machine, and most of us "store" at least one cone permanently on a stand on each machine. To protect from dust..get a plastic mineral water bottle ( that you've drunk the water from ) that has a diameter bigger than the cone diameter..cut the bottle around ( approximately half way up ) so that it makes a "cover" for the thread..leave the screw top on if the cone is not on the sewing machine, leave the screw top off ( and feed the thread upwards and out to the "eye" on the thread stand ) if the cone is on the thread stand behind the machine..This will keep them dust ( and other contaminants ) free. Only use mineral water bottles..or if you do use soda bottles make certain that all the sugaryness is washed out thoroughly first. re Blue Peter* and Dr Who..Val Singleton..and Tom Baker. *Biddy Baxter, Val and the rest of the "team" at the time sent me a very nice letter and a "Blue Peter Badge" when I was a boy, I was the one who named their cat Jason...Didn't get to go on TV to receive it though.. Tom Baker was my favourite, but I am old enough to have seen Dr Who since the very beginning with William Hartnell..he resembled one of my teachers ( a very stern man ) a bit too much to be my favourite.

If you want to raise the alcohol ( proof or in some cases % ) content of any liquid that contains alcohol the easy way..pour it into a plastic tub ( the kind that ice-cream comes in will work fine ) leave the top off, and put it in the freezer, the water content will freeze out as ice which will float on the top, what is underneath the ice is now a higher concentration of alcohol..so..remove the ice..use the remaining liquid..you may want to do this a couple or more times to really get to a high level of alcohol like 90%..in reality you probably won't get much over 65 or 70% by volume..but it may be enough to work as an alcohol solvant. Distilling ( without a licence ) is illegal most everywhere ( for the reasons that Tom gave )..and requires a bunch of equipment that is shall we say, somewhat difficult to hide..whereas the "ice method", is not illegal without a licence in many countries, mainly because it takes longer and you can't do as much at once. But..it might be illegal where whoever is reading this is based.. So I'm not encouraging anyone to break any laws that might apply to them..check with your local authorities to see if your local laws apply.

So will some hootch..or so I have heard.

If you do buy from the UK..look into parcelhero for shipping to Germany..

Beautifully done.

Salut Sébastien..that 6" ( 150mm ) splitter machine looks to be a "clone" of the Landis by Sieck, exactly the same as is sold by Hitex as the Cowboy 8116 ( search for "Cowboy 8116" or "Hitex 8116", and you'll see what I mean ;)..so , anyone with experience of that model should be able to tell you how they perform..

Did you put your makers mark..with phone number and website on it ?..if not..do so..now..or ASAP. Trade it.. Hairdressers are like a local talking newspaper, keep them happy and they'll sing your praises to everyone, word spreads via hairdressers..could get you a lot of work ( especially if you do leather repairs, alterations* ) make a few items to hang in her shop..small stuff, knife sheaths , wallets etc..give her a percentage ( say 10%..paid cash to her ) on anyone she sends to you who pays you.. Nearly forgot..nice clean work there *Can be worth doing to begin with, get your name about the place, just don't work cheap, it can be harder to raise your prices than to do the occasional "freebie" for PR for the right person.

Average purchase rate from visitors to a website..even the people who arrive via ads that you pay for in G or elsewhere is around 1 or 2% of "clickthroughs"..So..200 visitors..no sale..not surprising.. What you have to do is try to increase the proportion of really interested and ready to purchase visitors..on facebook that can be hard as most people on there are either killing time or social media zombies..and..unless you pay facebook to have your pages "seen", very few people ( apart from the two groups you mentioned ) will ever see your pages..and even when you pay for exposure..90% of the "visitors" will be bots.. In SM ( social media ) You have to be active..not only on your own pages, but also on the pages of people or companies whose items might be "connected" to your pages subjects..if people visiting another page see you comment ( real comment, not a "me too" or a "hey that is great" ) on a page, they may follow you back to your page to see what you do.. Applies to all varieties of social media.. Real websites come "out of the box" with at least 2 ( sometimes more ) types of analytics built in, plus raw logs ( which you can easily analyse )..you don't need any "app" to read your site logs.. "mark"eting is easy.. analyse what your "marks" will respond to, what motivates them, how that can connect to your "product", go where your "marks" are..connect with them..lead them to your tent..sell to them whatever it is that you are selling..it might be religion, might be baked beans, might be leather items, might be a car, might be a watch or a phone, might be insurance, might be an idea, might be a go on a carnival ride..

Tell him he'll look a real "snappy" dresser in it ? sorry

Plenty of superb top grade leather tanneries in Europe ( some of their stuff gets resold in the USA ) ..and at reasonable prices. and then there is Tandy.. who in Europe at least are pretty much the walmart of the leather world...best avoided.

Btw.Anyone wishing to make their own( including "collapsible versions, which are highly portable ) ..if you are any good at basic carpentry it isn't difficult.. the images here may be of use . https://www.esprit-cuir.fr/tutos-d-artisan-d-art/les-pinces-à-coudre/

Hi, in France the name of the "clam" is a "pince a coudre"..they exist in various styles and lengths.. We also have "vertical" stitching ponies like the models that you are more used to in the USA. Here is a video on youtube of the vergez blanchard type "pince a coudre" ..or "European stitching clam" being used, this should give you an idea of how to hold it etc , I doubt that you would need to cut any off, some people use the shorter ones with the jaws between the knees or thighs ( like the vertical stitching ponies ) and with the "point" end on the floor .. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZ1l91APojg Copy and paste the youtube link into your browser and hit "go". there are many more videos out there if you know the French word or phrase that you need. HTH :) Btw..for the pronunciation of pince a coudre..pin in French pronounces as if it was written pan ..like frying pan..and a is a short sound like the a in pan so "pince a coudre" is pronounced as if it was written.. panse a coodruh.. the panse part pronounces like Vance..as in Cyrus. :) the a is short the dre at the end of a word in French has the e part slightly emphasised...so with a dre you get druh..the druh like the druh in druthers..

Side to side ( perpendicular ( at 90° ) to the spine ) includes two areas of "belly" ( one at each end of the belt )..belly leather is stretchy..has to be, else the animal would have a problem eating.Most animals ( including us ) get temporarily* fatter after eating, they don't get temporarily longer along the spine, parallel to the spine leather on a bovine doesn't stretch much, it doesn't have to.. *over eat and "temporarily" can gradually become permanent.