Dwight

I use upholstery thread from Joann Fabric, . . . run it in a simple home type sewing machine for the most part. May God bless, Dwight

Michael, . . . go to Joann's Fabric, . . . check out their upholstery thread. It is "some kinda tough" to say the least. I use it for simple light leather projects, . . . for vinyl, . . . and for heavy canvas. It works in all three of my "regular" machines, . . . usually in the 8 spi range. And a spool of your favorite color is less than $5 if I recollect correctly. May God bless, Dwight

I'd go find the local prosecutor, . . . see if he couldn't help you out. That amount of money is big time felony fraud, . . . he could learn to make bunk saddles while in the slammer. May God bless, Dwight

OTB works for me,.......... Sorry about your loss, . . . our most heartfelt condolences to all of you. May God bless, Dwight

This is what I use, . . . works great for me: It is accurate to within 1/32 of an inch, . . . May God bless, Dwight

I use a ball point pen. May God bless, Dwight

I wanted one several years ago, . . . bought an old worn out one on Ebay for about $10, . . . cut it out, . . . used it. May God bless, Dwight

I used to have a bit of trouble with this same problem, . . . found out if I glue, edge, burnish, and stitch the raw leather first, . . . it works out better for me. I then dye the thing, . . . and I just dip dye it, . . . give it a good soaking, . . . then curve it into a circle a bit smaller than the belt size, . . . maybe 2/3 what it should be. Next I let it dry for about 10 minutes laying on the bottom edge, . . . then flip it and leave it for about an hour on the top edge. It then gets hung up by the buckle end for the finish drying, . . . which is all night or so. When I add the Resolene, . . . sometimes I'll get a very slight rippling of wrinkles, . . . but by allowing the belt to dry about 80%, . . . I can then work it over the edge of my hand in the direction of the "bend" and 90% of the wrinkles work themselves out. Anyway, . . . that's how I do it and it works for me. May God bless, Dwight

I'm sorry to hear that, . . . my local 2 Hobby Lobby stores are wonderful places to shop. Often times I find things there I did not know existed, . . . It also makes a 1 stop deal for me, . . . as I have so many different interests, . . . sometimes am all over the store. May God bless, Dwight

Go to Hobby Lobby, . . . buy this tool: http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/5/8-heavy-duty-fastener-plier-kit-733006/ It will solve your problem, . . . no matter how long the shaft is (provided it is not too short of course). I won't use any other tool for 95% of my snap situations. May God bless, Dwight

I bought the servo from Toledo, . . . wasn't enough drop for some of the stuff I mess with, . . . so I added a 3/1 reducer to the servo, . . . I can go down now to maybe 12 stitches per minute if I want to. Not everyone's cup of tea, . . . but I love it. May God bless, Dwight

You can also buy it in both a gel form and liquid form. For certain applications, . . . the gel is really great, . . . but it is a bit more pricey. May God bless, Dwight

Sorry to see you hanging up your awl, . . . but I certainly wish you the best in your next endeavor. You've been a good friend, . . . mentor, . . . and sounding board for many of us on here, . . . and if nobody else says it, . . . I will, . . . I'll miss seeing you on here. Take care, . . . may God bless, Dwight

Weldwood contact cement will put shoe soles on without stitching. Mine have been on for something near 4 years, . . . have not come off yet. I don't use any other glue or adhesive for 90+% of the stuff I do, . . . and the others are simply exceptions for a special use. That includes belts, holsters, sheaths, phone cases, Ipad cases, purses, and probably something I can't think of at 11:20 PM. May God bless, Dwight

The rules for Weldwood are simple: Put in on thinly, . . . let it dry to the point that there are no sticky places at all on what you are doing. Rough up any hair side parts, . . . and don't be gentle. It will not be seen once the glue it put on and glued together, . . . rough it up good. I have never found any reason to clamp anything I've done with it, . . . been using it for over 50 years. Press the two pieces together using the flat palms of your hands, . . . and whatever upper body weight you can bear down on it, . . . then leave it for several hours. And YES, . . . acetone will thin down Weldwood, . . . I had an order for 3 belts not long ago, . . . and my can was near the bottom, . . . kinda thickened. I added a couple ounces of Acetone, . . . stirred for 5 minutes, . . . back in business. All three belts were put together with no problem at all. Another YES, . . . you can pull two pieces of leather apart that have been properly bonded with Weldwood, . . . but if you take a good look at what really happened, . . . you will find that the glue did not give way, . . . the leather fibers separated, . . . allowing the two pieces to separate. The only exception to this rule is when you use it on the hair side and don't properly scuff up the hair side surface. May God bless, Dwight

Quite honestly, . . . I would characterize your idea as trying to repaint a rose to get a better color. Ya just don't mess with what has already been perfected. The double layer leather belt works by itself, . . . does not need metal, nylon, mylar, kydex, or anything else to "fix" it. Use the search button at the top right corner, . . . you'll find this has been beat up, beat down, and beat on enough times that your answer to all your questions is in there. May God bless, Dwight

Look at the stuff on my website ( www.dwightsgunleather.com ) everything done there is on a Tippmann Boss. Secondarily, . . . if you are making a road trip to Toledo, . . . you may as well add the east side of Ft. Wayne, . . . ask for Ben, . . . at the Tippmann company. Ben has always been MORE than helpful to me. Personally, . . . I like my boss (guess it is obvious) and for what you are doing, . . . but any machine sewing will punch out the bottom side, . . . it WILL look like it was done on a machine, . . . which you will not get by hand sewing. However, . . . having said that, . . . I see only two choices for you, . . . get a machine so you can keep up, . . . or raise your prices so you can stand the volume loss because you cannot keep up. May God bless, Dwight

Can I make and uninvited observation? I hate, detest, loathe, . . . and would use other words but don't know them, . . . to tell you how I feel about a stiff wallet. I don't change wallets until I absolutely have to, . . . for that very reason. I like a wallet that is thin, flexible, and will sort of expand / contract, . . . depending on how much junk I put in it, . . . and I'm a Sanford and Son when it comes to collecting junk. Just my 2 cents, . . . FWIW. May God bless, Dwight

Vacuum forming is a piece of cake: vac pump from Harbor Freight ($100 - $150), . . . DIY plastic bag with the plastic coming from JoAnn fabric ($15), . . . and a piece of hose and a fitting. I do almost all of my holsters with one, . . . am making one for a rifle later this summer, . . . used to use a press, but got afraid with all these plastic fantastic shooters folks are using now, . . . Google vacuum forming on Youtube, . . . as I recall, there are several there, . . . it'll give you the idea. May God bless, Dwight

I actually have two machines for leather, . . . my belt machine is a Tippmann Boss, . . . usually on Ebay, . . . can be picked up for $1000 or so usually. I prefer it for belts & holsters as I can absolutely put that stitch where I want it. . . . and it will allow me to sew through 3/4 inch of dry leather. I have also used up to 410 thread in the thing. My other machine is a Singer 111W155, . . . which I have a total of about $450 invested in it. It is probably older than me (70), . . . but it does a beautiful job sewing everything I put through it. The problem with it is that it does not handle the heavier thread and has a much smaller bobbin than the Boss, . . . I'm going to do a belt for myself on the Singer one of these days soon, . . . but maybe someone else will chime in with their experiences on this or a similar machine. I was told I actually overpaid the original $300 for the machine, . . . but then again, . . . I was happy with it, . . . I added an electronically monitored motor that controls the speed pretty well, . . . but then added a 3 to 1 reduction pulley to slow it down further, . . . you could almost take a nap watching it sew now on its slowest speed. If you are near Toledo, Ohio, . . . there is a sewing machine shop there that can fix you up with several different models, . . . he's one of the advertisers on here. Others don't always share my opinion, . . . but FWIW, . . . if I had to hand sew double layer belts, . . . I'd probably find another line of work. May God bless, Dwight

BondoBob knows whereof he speaks, . . . at least in my opinion. I cannot afford a really high priced knife, . . . so I use a drywall knife. Looks like a box cutter in a way. First thing I do when I put a new razor blade in it, . . . put that blade on my strop and sharpen/hone it. Yeah, . . . scary sharp is a good definition, . . . and right now I've got a left index finger that wasn't fast enough a week or so ago. It happens. But even so, . . . I still like leather work enough to buy bandages and razor blades. And the drywall knife is my knife of choice. I have a number of other styles, . . . it is first and foremost, . . . my go-to knife for all my leatherwork. May God bless, Dwight

Awww, c'mon George B, . . . that's what needles and thread are for May God bless, Dwight

If I may, . . . I adjusted your order, . . . highlighting one item: I learned this from my mother. She was a quilter, . . . one of the best I've ever known or seen. She would throw away a piece, . . . or a whole stack of pieces, . . . rather than try to "Attempt to still fit pieces together despite cruddy cutting job". The cutting will always make or break your project, . . . lousy cutting = lousy finished product, . . . good cutting = good finished product, . . . excellent, and carefully done cutting = excellent, and carefully done final product. Get that under your belt, . . . then you can worry about the rest, . . . which IMHO looked pretty good. But also, . . . the "order" will always be determined by the desired final piece. Order for a pair of boots is far different from a billfold. May God bless, Dwight

Personally, . . I would not worry too much about it. Remember, . . . the guy who made it, . . . did not make a show piece to go behind glass at the Smithsonian, . . . he made a tool to be used, appreciated, enjoyed, and one day, . . . some day, . . . some time, . . . it will no longer be useable. From what I can see, . . . it looks beautiful, . . . I have an old "Jumbo" saddle, . . . probably a lot older than my 70 years, . . . been repaired many times, . . . and I still love it. You and I both have a privilege of sitting on history when we ride these saddles, . . . embrace it, . . . enjoy it, . . . thank the Lord for it. May God bless, Dwight

Doubled 7/8, . . . I like my belts to come out more or less at the .200 to .220 mark on my caliper, . . . sometimes even a bit lighter, say for a slim ladies belt. But that is the area I shoot for if I know the guy is going to be packing iron on the belt I made. And if he is in the 50+ market area, . . . I'll make it a tad thicker, . . . lotsa real estate to cover with only one belt The one I have on right now (and have worn so long I don't remember how old it is), . . . measures at .250, . . . has some stains, . . . some scratches, . . . and a lot of character rubbed into it. May God bless, Dwight