Hags

No, I don't usually line my holsters.

I started with a leather strap. Customers said it was uncomfortable. I changed to the nylon strap and have had no complaints. It adjusts easier, I think after wearing mine the nylon moves easier, and sits better around the back. Just me I guess..

Hey Pastor Bob, thank you for your kind words. I admit its been a learning process for me as well. To start I use Hermann Oak leather, 7/8oz for the holster and reinforcing piece on the front. I've tried the cheaper stuff and it isn't worth the waste. I use HO 4/5 oz for the straps and connector pieces. I also use 4/5 for most of my pouches and mag holder fronts. I cut the rough shape of my holster pieces then dye them. After it dries I cut them out and treat any edges that won't be sewn (top of the back sweat shield and the bottoms of the front and back.). Then glue and do an initial edge treatment, then stitching. I use a cobra class 3, 207 bonded nylon top and bottom. Then wet molding. I have learned much (ok, most) of what I do by watching Adam's leather works instructional videos. He is very clear and detailed and lists his resources. I use a vacuum set up he describes on his site. I feel this really helps. It is not very expensive to set up. Please visit his site for more info on that or PM me and I can show you more about mine. Ok, wet molding. I get the holster wet in the sink, warm water, inside and out. Out to the the bench and into the bag. Turn on the pump and set the front, approx 3 to 4 minutes, stop the pump, turn it over and do the same to the back. The back is where I get most of my retention and detail. I have to say I usually use the actual gun. I have used models and when I have, I have taken my dremel to the trigger guard and made it deeper all around the trigger. The ones I have were not deep enough to get the detail I want. Wear a mask if you do this! After I set the front and back, I remove the gun/mold and let my hair dryer blow on it on low for about 15 minutes or so. As is dries I get more detail. Put the gun back in and work it over, edges too. The detail should be taking shape really good now. I just keep working it until I'm satisfied. I did pretty much the same process before I got the vacuum set up. It just took longer for the initial part. I feel taking a dremel to the trigger guard is pretty important as well. The few I've used did not have nearly enough depth to get the leather in there deep enough to make an impression. I hope this helps.

Check your pm.

I recently built this chest rig for a golf buddy who is elk hunting with it in Colorado at this time. I really like doing revolvers. The detail I can get is a lot of fun for me. Its a shame most of the detail is on the back, but the customer sees it and appreciates the work and attention it requires to get it. On that line, I was getting a little frustrated with the current boning tools I have to work with. If I did a black holster, my wood or bone tools turned black. And I also feel they didn't get into the nooks and crannies I wanted to. I was using a pear shaders a lot, and liked the lines they left. But, they were hard to hold (arthritis). I took a few 5/16 bolts and started playing around with them, the grinder, sander, and buffing wheel. I also used a short piece of 3/8 I had laying around. The result is better than I could have hoped. The lines are clean, burnished, and my hand fatigue is very much reduced. The long angled round faced one is ok, but not really that great. The others though work pretty well. Now I have to improve my handles..

I'd be interested in the ruger gp. Cost? Any pistols? Really want glocks

Thank you for the comments. I have to say this is for a very big boy. It's way bigger than anything I could or would carry. This thing has a 50 inch chest strap on it so plenty of real estate to to park this thing on.

Very well done. Nice to see another maker from the PNW on the site.

Very nice

As my wife would say, "only you can see them!". But, that's what makes us improve. I think you did a great job!

Hello! Glad to have you and welcome to the addiction! I started the same way when I retired a few years ago. Now I have garage full of stuff and am always looking for more, unique things to add. Dont be afraid to ask questions, and looks at people's attachments in their profiles if you think you may like their work.

This is a holster I finished this weekend.

Welcome to the site. Lots of areas to explore and lots of good advice!

Ditto increasing top tension. Everytime I change my machine (cobra class 3 and a pfaff 130) I have to check top tension. I've had my cobra for a year and have just really become comfortable with it. Still working on the 1952 pfaff I recently acquired and unfroze! I still like my scotch though, just not when I sew.....

Thank you. Those are all Chicago screws.

This is one I just finished. 5" Kimber 45 with mag pouch. The guy wanted dark brown and wanted my makers mark on the front. I usually place that on the back. Hermann Oak 7/8 for the holster, H.O. 4/5 for the pouch with 1 layer of 7/8 to stiffen up the back. 4/5oz for straps and 1"nylon for the long strap. Vacuum formed Cobra class 3, 207 top and bottom Fiebings pro dye Resolene and water 50/50 2-3 coats

This is the finished project.

Yes, I do a new pattern for each gun. Seems I rarely do the same gun twice. I use jlsleather.com's method. It's spelled out on his website and downloadable for free. Then I change them from belt loops to attachment points for the various straps. I do pancake style for both pistol and also for revolvers. I find the"flat back" holsters don't hug the body as well. Probably just me. I believe I saw that on Adam's leather works you tube. It works pretty well and I get great detail.

Ditto the veg tan. There are many videos on you tube about stamping and carving you can watch. I highly reccomend Don Gonzales Saddlery and Joe Melling at 23+ leather among the many out there. They. Both have many current, free, and very good educational videos available. I too struggled (still working on it!) And started with the wrong leather. I have learned that veg tan is just about the only, rather that will take and hold tooling. Find a leather shop near you or look online at one of the ma y suppliers and get some veg tan. You wi,l see immediate improvements. Good luck and welcome to the addiction!

Thank you. The basket weave doesn't take long at all on such a small piece. And then everyone looks at my desk where I have my stamping and carving tools set up and gets all excited about hand tooled! Never mind the one off holster design, wet molding, and custom fitting. People, go figure.. The speed loader pouch has become very popular with revolver holsters. Had a devil of a time making those until I figured out a mold for them. I just finished a chest rig for a Kimber 5" 45 cap and added a mag pouch in the same fashion.

I recently made these for a camping/hiking couple. Walther p22 for her and a LH Taurus 357 for him with a speedloader pouch riding on the holster.

Very nice.

I've got a Kimber 45 on the bench now for a chest rig. I'll see if I can get some pics and try to explain it a little. I basically use jlsleather.com's method for holster design, it's free, and very detailed, then decide the tilt (I start with 25 degrees) then design away. If you look at my attachments I have some pics that show the various pieces on a gridded cutting board so you can see the sizes. I should take the time e to do an instructional, it would give a starting point for folks wanting to make their own. Here's a couple of pics from the Kimber I have now. You can see the gun tracing for a regular pancake style holster. And the attachment points I place instead of belt loops. I try to keep everything even as far as attachment points go. But, the gun will find it's natural point to hang.

These are a few of my recent projects. The large revolver is a 6"44 mag for a young man who is a timber cruiser on the Olympic peninsula. He spends many hours a day in very remote areas and is very conscious of bears and cougars. He wears the rig from 6 to 12 hours a day. I made this for him last may and he stopped by last week to say hi and the thing has weathered wonderfully. It has literally molded to his body. If we ever wondered why leather was and is preferred this brings it home for me. He says there is really no other way he could carry this thing. Another is the sheath for what I was told is a 60 year old Hudson bay pattern axe. The sheath he had was falling apart. It now has regained its heirloom

Very, very nice! I have a cobra class 3, I love it. Kinda wish I'd gone the few extra bucks for the class 4. Just a little more room would be nice. I also want to get a mannequin to hang stuff on during design and fitting up. Great work!