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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. Yes,they need to be fastened w/a nail or screw,here's what we do,one on each side,3/4" long drywall screw.
  2. If you ever get a chance to go the leather show in Sheridan be sure to go Kings Rope store in town & check out the awesome display of Ann & Al's work,actual workbenches & stories that they have about them.
  3. The 112w would be easier since it doesn't have the extra walking feet parts on it.Just get the rockframe out (the part the needlebar rides in & you be able to get the takeup lever out.
  4. Looks like an easy fix,we have welded up a lot of cracked machines over the years.We pre-heated & used nickle rod.They can also be brazed if your better at that.It looks like not too many parts are missing so you should try to save it.
  5. Here's a sample off one we have showing the stitch on the bottomside.
  6. We recommend going through 2-holes as some threads have a tendency to work their way out of the 1st tension if you only go through 1-hole,the slight extra tension it gives will prevent it from happening.
  7. We don't have any problems with the pulleys fitting,we order them with the small pulley.
  8. Here's a chart,but you cannot go wrong by oiling every spot were metal rubs against metal & any pivot point,oil the groove the shuttle rides in everytime you change a bobbin. HTH
  9. Don't forget back when these machines were made they never knew about this new-fangled nylon twisted thread,so I think you have so much pressure @ that point it's pinching the thread too much,try a lighter spring.I've ran them with nylon & never had any trouble.
  10. You only need that part called the thread lock for when your sewing real thick leather like 3/4" or so.You can use a 1/2 -3/4 HP motor.
  11. Ken, It has an oscillating shuttle w/a round bobbin & uses up to #92 thread.
  12. I've sold a few of them yrs ago & think it was in the middle to late 1980's that they had them.
  13. I doubt if it's a Consew,the label could of just been stuck on there be someone along the line.Lookup Mitubishi DY-337,the newest & improved model with auto-lube is probably on ebay model #318 or 5318. It has the top feed feet that have teeth on them & the lower feed dog has them too & will mark & scratch leather,these are great sewing canvas.& tarps.
  14. 128x20 is a round point ,128x22 leather point is correct needle for your machine.
  15. Most people would use the needle that is recommended,if your machine has been re-timed it's just a matter of adjusting the needlebar to use the correct needles that you have.You just take the needle plate off & turn the machine around until the point of the hook is @ the needle & the eye needs to be approx. 1/8" below the hook point.If it needs to be adjusted,open the faceplate,locate the screw on the needlebar clamp ,loosen it & raise or lower as needed.When reinstalling the needle plate be sure the small metal tab on the bobbincase is in the groove of the needle plate before you tighten the screws.
  16. FWIW ,the one we sell runs slower due to the 2" pulley Everyone else including Consew sells them w/a 3" pulley.
  17. Yes,they phased these out quite a few yrs ago & do not even have any parts for them. You could sew on the road with this one Driver!
  18. The some of the older Consews where black from the factory.Home Depot has a hammertone grey that'll work if you want it grey.
  19. You might try oiling the pressure bar at the bushings.
  20. The most common cause for looping underneath is improper threading(make sure it's pulled all the way between the discs) or too loose of tension.
  21. No,shpg is extra.
  22. Top $75.00 ,lower $68.00.
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