CowboyBob

We do have some in stock too.And do to all the calls we've been getting have a large order of poly thread coming in Dec.We will be stocking the same colors as the nylon.In sizes 138,207,277 & 346.

That bolt adjusts the brake,if the travel of the pedal gets to be to much from stop to go you can turn this in to decrease it.It needs to be done after while because both the brake pad & clutch that makes it run are made of cork & as you use the machine they wear alittle making them thinner.

Some of them have a 2nd button on the top to adjust the height of the foot walk. The single button isn't the best idea on these because they do tend to knock the clutch out easier when you change the stitch length.But you are correct in saying they get gummed up & sometimes putting some oil or penetrating fluid on the stitch length cam underneath will help to free it up. I just worked on one a couple days ago that the clutch was kicking out all the time & had to tighten the adjustment on it.

I don't know what is wrong but for some reason I can't copy & paste into a post like this & only on this site.So I sent a PM.of the parts manual.

There is 3-screws in the end of the 211 lower clutch pulley that set the tension that it takes before it kicks out.When you look @ the pulley from the side you see them,to adjust it take out the short lock screw & turn the other screw in a couple of turns,do this to all 3.Then itwill take more force to kick it out you should be able to adjust your stitch,you might try (when holding the button down) turning the handwheel away from you this will make it shorter,towards you is longer. The 211's all only have 1-button on the bed.

Hello Doc, Thanks for the update & it sounds like your keeping that Cowboy busy!!

Yes,it should work for what your sewing.This machine would sew the same as 111w or Consew 225,226 only it has a cylinder arm. The walking foot would be the better of the 2.

Looks like a real nice one......now!! That pink is real bright,I guess in a shop window it would sure stand out.

Hello CD,it was good to finally meet you I was hoping you'd come around & we could talk some more,but I know how it goes everybody gets busy & then it's time to leave. I thought there was quite a few less people at the show,the aisles weren't as thick w/people as previous years.but I like to go & meet people & see new things at the show. I agree they should include holsters,belt makers & general leathers maybe that would help the show to do it?As long as it's leather related it should be included in the show.

Maybe he's talking about how deep you can go in the arm,because they will only sew 3/4" thick max.They weigh around 550Lbs

Good choice,you'll get a lot less marking on the bottom side with the 206 than a machine like the 1182 because they have a needlefeed.

I have a couple that sew great I'd sell for $750.00 ea.They only have a 4" workspace,they do make a real nice looking stitch because they have a needle & awl.They would make a great holster or knife sheath machine.

I was thinking about the hammer & maybe I shouldn't have warned you because I know where you can get a real nice shiney NEW machine that will sew leather.So beat away!

The wheel needs to be against the body so there is no gap, when you get rid of the gap,the knock will go away.When your sewing & the takeup lever pulls the thread up it makes the shaft the wheel is mounted on go left & right.All machines with the takeup lever on the end will knock if there.'s side play on the top shaft.Push & pull on the wheel & you'll hear it.Also I know it's your machine & you can do whatever you want BUT you need to put the hammer outside far away from you,parts for this machine are real hard to find.

Ok,take the needle out,find some wood like a 2x4 or something & put it under the needlebar & use it as a stop,hold it careful & turn the wheel which ever way it takes to get it to spin towards the grooves on the shaft.

There's 2-screws on the wheel to the shaft,if you get the other one loosened it should sin on the shaft,if not & we'll go to plan B.

Constabulry is probably correct on the if the top shaft has side play the inside of the wheel will hit like that, loosen the 2-screws that hold it tight to the shaft just 1/4 of a turn & then tighten the larger screw in the center of the wheel (on the out side) to take the side play out of it.Don't overtighten the large one to much.

I'll have to agree with Constabulary they really aren't that hard to work on & you can get parts machines @ Weavers auction for less than $100.00.I just sold 4-of these yesterday,it seems like I can never get time to work on them & a guy kept asking about them so it looks like they are going to a good home.When adjusted properly they make a real nice looking stitch as all needle & awl machines do.

It's a good price BUT parts are hard to get,we do stock needles & awls.

Frank, I'm glad to hear you have it going,We used to sell the motor w/o brushes & it is harder to adjust & doesn't seem to have the low end torque like this one.I know SV stands for special version BUT I've never seen anything from Singer explaining it.I've looked & machines before & found what the difference in they also have the 144 with SV on them.You have to put your machine side by side with another 153 & look @ every part.I think sometimes the engineers @ Singer had to look busy so they did things like this.

Yes,it sounds like somebody locked it down,since there's a lockwasher on it.I think this came from a Singer 107W & the parts may be alittle different but it's all I could find so I scanned it.You can push the adjuster all the way in & then turn the B screw in & out.

Maybe this cutaway diagram will help.It pivots on screw D because of the spring .Are the threads broken on the shaft for the stitch length adjuster?You have to pull the whole shaft out.It's either that or you need to take out screw A & turn screw B in more to contact the adjuster shaft.

I don't like it either & sent him a note telling him so.I think it might be somebody from the factory too.But I'll find out if he writes me back.

We have them in stock.

When the bolt is tight the piece under it needs to move freely.