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shoepatcher

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Everything posted by shoepatcher

  1. Michael Simards, the Adler and Pfaff dealer in Canada, told a guy I am helping out because they would not even though he bought the machine from them. They DO NOT put speed reducers on machines with Servos. Said they do not need them! AHH?? Are you kidding me.!!!! Bob at Toledo, Steve at Cobra and Allen at Weaver have been putting speed reducers on harness weight machines with servos for years. I know for a fact that they never put any speed reducer on any Adler 205 they sold to the Goalie companies in Canada be it with a servo or clutch motor. Try sewing a Adler 205 with a clutch motor and no speed reducer. No good control of the machine, I can tell you! Moral of this story. YOU NEVER KNOW IT ALL AND YOU LEARN THINGS EVERYDAY!! Some dealers think they know it all. Fortunately, our dealers on this site are very knowledgeable and do listen. glenn
  2. Yes the Adler 269-73 is a great machine. Comparable to the 26 Cobra which is a Juki 341 or 1341 clone. Juki will have a bigger bobbin but the Adler is built like a tank. I think the lift on the 269 is over 1/2". Both machines will handle #207 on top. I would always buy and Adler over a clone. Just me. I have 4 Adler's and two Juki's, a Consew, a Pfaff, a Singer. All are great machines!! glenn
  3. I agree with Constabulary. I have done that in the past. downsize the dia. of the head of the screw to fit in the synchronizer head. glenn
  4. I have used a lot of thread nips over the years by many manufacturers. I prefer the ones by Gold Seal. Can be re-sharpened a number of times and parts are available. glenn
  5. Yep glenn
  6. There is a guy in Lithuania that sells Pfaff parts I think on ebay. Always has good parts and good prices. Check that out. glenn
  7. That normally would be 14mm on the new castings. glenn
  8. If this does not have an H4 in the model plate, it will only lift 11mm. The H3 in model plate is 11mm lift. H4 is the height lift model. send us pic of the brass model plate glenn
  9. That machine can sew #346 thread top and bottom and you may be able to use #415 in the top. They use at least #346 on tow straps. I have seen #415 on tow straps and probably higher weights of thread. glenn
  10. we need a video of it ? glenn
  11. I found some instruction manuals on Dixie Sewing web site. Not your exact subclass but some Model 96 manuals. They can be downloaded. Hope that helps. glenn
  12. Sounds like stich adjustment button is not engaging and disengaging when it should. It may be gummed up. I would oil in and around it to start. It may require taking the thing apart to see what the problem is. The LU563 is based on the Singer 111W155 but with big bobbin and reverse. send some pics please! glenn
  13. the parts manual is on the Consew site glenn
  14. Synchronizer should mount over stud on end of balance wheel. then tighten 2 set screws. send pics! glenn
  15. Feet are cheap. Try grinding the valley at top. If it fails, you order a new foot. Not expensive. glenn
  16. The u valley at the top of the foot can be ground out to help the foot sit flat. I have done it on occasion to poor fitting feet. The problem is this is an aftermarket part and quality is not the best at times.. What is so crazy is it does not take any more effort or money to make it right in the first place!!! glenn
  17. The walk of the feet is off. That has to be equalized for the feet to work properly glenn.
  18. Call Eli Schalbach in Aurthur, Il. at Landis. glenn
  19. yep they will glenn
  20. contact Hoffman Brothers on Chicago. They bought the whole company form Ferdco. Still producing the machines. They have parts. glenn
  21. It is the space to the right of the needle and the head of the machine. A lot of industrial sewing machines in the older generation work space was 10.5" glenn
  22. Shuttles damn near impossible to find. I hope to have them made next summer. I may have feet as well. I have bobbins that will work in a Durkopp 17-1-1. They are $1.50 each. glenn
  23. I time the bobbin case opener by hand. Remove the right slide plate. With machine threaded, turn balance wheel towards you while watching the hook pick up the the needle thread. Follow it as goes from 9:00 o'clock where it pick up thread to 12:00 o'clock. when it gets to about 5:00 0'clock should release from hook and be very close to bobbin case opener. Loosen adjustment for bobbin case opener and move it so thread just goes past the opening at the opener. Tighten adjustment. Turn balance wheel again and watch the thread as it nears bobbin case opener. Should clear it without being held up. If it does, great. If not, redo this procedure again by hand until your adjustment is good. Now turn machine on, hold the needle and bobbin thread in your hand and sew a few stitches. Should be good to go. glenn
  24. Sounds like it is not in time or safety clutch kicked out. Manual will tell you how to check the safety clutch. glenn
  25. Contact Robert Collier at Collier Equipment in Alabama and Jones Decker at Bill's Sewing in Hildabrand, NC. The can help with the parts and screws. I believe I have a service manual for that machine. Will check. Those are hard to find! glenn
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