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shoepatcher

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Everything posted by shoepatcher

  1. The 669 can sew 3/8" or more depending on what the material is. If hard leather, no. It is rated for 3/8". If thicker, then you are into harness weight class of machines. glenn
  2. DBsavajoe, The DA669 of which I have one is the best narrow cylinder arm of the market. It is a new generation machine with new engineering features. Seiko now makes one as well but does not have as high a lift or as long as stitch. I would look at both. The DA is over $4,000.00 but what a machine. PM is you need more info. glenn
  3. You are buying the entire assembly which is how they sell it now. The 4 at the end of the part number means it is an assembly. glenn
  4. Kryptonite. I checked. I do not have that part. I have parts to a 268 but that part is different. part is still available on the 267 373 machine glenn
  5. i may have the part. let me look in the morning. Won't be cheap. glenn
  6. Get the bad screws out any way you can and REPLACE them. I always clean up or replace screws when i go over and rebuild machines. Will cost you some money but well worth it in the end. I hate when people bugger up screws and make no effort to clean them up for the next guy!! glenn
  7. 112W139 is a double needle walking foot machine. In essence, a double needle 111W155. The 251-13 is a bottom feed high speed machine used mostly in apparel. Neither have reverse. glenn
  8. Check the timing BOTH in forward and reverse. That hook must come as close to the needle as possible without touching it. Timing could be fine in forward but not in reverse. Allen Burkholder at Weavers is probably the finest technician on that machine in the WORLD. I say that because he has worked on this particular model of machine for over 25 years. He knows them backwards and forwards. He has taught me a lot about the machine. Steve at Cobra and Bob at Toledo are also very very good, All of them will tell you the hook must be ever so close to the hook without touching it. I would try another spool of thread as well. Check the thread path for burrs as well as the hook. These machines do get out of time both hooks and needle bars. One way to check the timing is to sew forward and then go in reverse 12 stitches. If it misses at all in those 12 stitches in reverse, timing is off. glenn
  9. CustomDoug, Feed dog way to high in the one picture. I said 1/2 of a tooth above the throat plate. That is what I used on my Consew 227R many years ago. if feed dog to high, you will have problems. Make sure outside foot tension is not to great as well. High feed dog height will affect the outside foot tension. glenn
  10. Looks like a Consew 227 R-1. Feed dog seems to be hitting on the back of the throat plate slot. the feed dog space from the front and back of the slot should be the same. If not, that has to be centered. If feed dog is too long in front or back, I sometimes grind the feed dog down in front or back a little. Either way, at the max. stitch, should NOT be hitting the feed dog plate. You get the feed dog centered in the throat plate front to back. Then you center the needle into the feed dog hole. Then, I check to make sure the feed dog is only 1/2" the height of the teeth above the throat plate. NO more! If needle is now centered in feed dog hole, I then equalize the walk height of each foot. This procedure correct BOB? Feed dog look long to you front to back Bob? glenn
  11. JJN, Did you ever get a manual for your clicker. I found mine for the Model C glenn
  12. Looks like a problem with the bobbin. No tensions at times. Remove the left bobbin case and check the tension spring. check for sear or grooves in it. Also make sure thread is clearing the bobbin case tab under the throat plate and bobbin case opener is in correct position. Check thread path on the left need from top thread guide to needle. glenn
  13. they are metric. I am thinking 8 mm standard thread pitch for 8mm. need to be 1"/25mm long glenn
  14. I would take the 1245 regardless. Bigger bobbin, higher lift, bobbin winder on front of machine, newer machine. glenn
  15. Pfaff is 2.0mm to 2.2mm if I remember correctly. depends on subclass glenn
  16. There us no way I would hand sew welts and soles on shoes. I build goalie pads. I have hand sewn a lot of them up by hand in 40 plus years. I also have an Adler 205-370 to sewn them up the sides on a machine. Machine sewn pads are superior because they maintain that constant same tension on the thread. Shoes are harder to do. A Mckay insole machine and Rapid E or Landis 12 curved needle will do a superior job and do it a lot faster on the welt and soles. Just my opinion but also speaking from experience. A shoe finisher will also make finishing the shoes and boot easier. glenn
  17. Play in the needlebar. how it stitches. glenn
  18. Contact Allen at Weaver Leather in Ohio. He is in on Monday and Tuesday. They carry parts for the 267 Adler. Should be the same number. glenn
  19. Bobbins should never be filled over about 85%. A totally filled bobbin will cause problems. glenn
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