koreric75

Not sure what everyone else does, but I'm paranoid about leaving this thing uncovered too much. Does anyone need or want the .svg for this?

I really love my old singer 66, it was a treadle machine that i rescued from a shed/garage. I went through and oiled and everything worked pretty well, then decided i didn't want to treadle sew...lol, converted to a servo and just recently added a smaller speed reducer. I hated to a little, but this thing has such a beautiful stitch! Singer 66 sewing with speed reducer Singer 66 picture - ~8-10oz of leather test stitch. 18/110 schmetz leather needle & 92 thread top & bobbin

get with one of the die makers and see if they can make a strap end die with a 3/8" quick mount for the press.

Perfect timing, I've been making some smaller items for stocking stuffers and such. How much for shipping to LA 71112?

I think that tab fits in a pocket underneath the foot plate, that is how it is on my adler.

I've had mine for a little while now and i love it! It is also super quick to remove and put back on as needed, I would like to add a couple of mount points for edge guide or binder attachment, but it's soooo pretty i am not wanting to drill into any of it... i also added a little pad on the far right end to brace, it was very sturdy but long projects and leaning on it i could see may cause issues eventually.

Alexander, I really hate to hear this, y'all were a staple to the leatherworker community as well as the premier southern USA cowboy dealer. I am glad I got the chance to make at least one trip to meet you and the team, I wish the best for your future endeavors .

Awesome! I can't wait to try one out, have been waiting for something like this.

I think even if it would sew it, you would eventually be disappointed with the stitch length and thread size limitations.

I may have been trying to add for seam allowance vs subtracting for it, that may be why I ended up with more gusset that circle.

Thanks YinTx, I've considered the thickness, but don't think it's calculated correctly as still had to remove material or end up with bunching towards the end.

So I've been experimenting a little, with a round bag and rectangle w/ radius corners (1.75"radius), and have had a really difficult time getting the measurements to come out right. Does anyone have a good way to get it perty dern close on first go? These are felted wool with some 2/3oz veg tan, Palencia i think from Tandy. Overall I made it work, but had it bunch up at the last bit, and have had to unclip, and cut from the gusset usually. But it's easier that way than to add to it I think. Here's the calculator i used for the rectangle https://rechneronline.de/pi/rounded-rectangle.php And for the circle I used an excel calc that I found on utube.

I've been working on getting this right as well, I've come across a lot of videos with a few different ways to do the linings. this video may help, or get you on the right track of other videos similar.

I forgot to mention, it integrates with paypal and etsy so you can track purchases from those accounts. It also has an integration for google sheets, for automation there are some built from zapier that integrate, probably still will have to fine tune the custom invoices though.

I use wave, coz it's free and simple to use, and i can get to it from the mobile or pc.

If you're asking for shipping, could we get the location it's shipping from?

It's the red toledo industrial sewing machine link in his signature, if you're on mobile it may not show, but here it is in text format jic... https://www.tolindsewmach.com/

I have the 67-372, it is a great little machine, i got it for $400 with a servo installed. I later went back and got a box type speed reducer which made it an absolute joy to use. Biggest downside is trying to find attachments or presser feet, they'll be more expensive than say for a comparable consew machine. I have l/r zipper feet and the single left toe presser setup and so far it works great for my flat bed requirements. I've done quite a few belts and straps on it, it'll handle 138 top & bottom if you're setup right. One thing some don't care for is the slip clutch, I like it because I am using this for leather and sometimes get a little too agressive with what i'm trying to get it to do, it will slip the clutch before the timing, you'll hear it and will learn to know when to stop, raise the bed and slip the clutch back in place before continuing.

Hey PappyJoe, you can try... https://www.etsy.com/listing/683688843/pipe-case-pattern-leather-diy-pdf?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=leather+pipe+roll+pattern&ref=sc_gallery-1-4&plkey=846f95ae6bc1af2db1dd057b6c0ba36fea90dd93%3A683688843&pro=1

I also have most of the JLS patterns stored and don't mind passing them along as long as Jeff doesn't mind us doing so (which he doesn't)...lol

I think the answer is going to be as broad as any other subjective question, but for me i will say "depends". It depends on a few things, number 1. application, if the stitch is to provide structural/strength holding parts together -- definitely take it out and do it over If the stitch is aesthetic in location and will detract from the desired look--do over if the stitch is not in the above two categories, there are 2 options, leave it or try to fix it...I will usually cut the skipped stitch, back out enough to keep the thread out of the way then over stitch 2 or three fore & aft then singe the tails, if i catch it soon enough I will back out the stitching all the way to the skipped and then over stitch from 2 or three back. That all said, if it's one stitch in a long run and not noticeable or in the first two categories, i'll leave it be.

I've used my spool of cowboy 207 thread and handstitched so it would match something i sewed with the machine as well. Tandy had the carriage thread on sale for like $8/spool, off colors but the "plum" would be fine with brown or other color, the dark green looks nice as well.

i have one and it sews leather, it was a treadle machine originally but since i've moved it to a new table with a servo...

try this out, gregg from keystone post about the C267, not the same as adler 267, but a rebadged juki DNU-1541(S).

I strop my Tandy bevelers regularly. Anything that cuts chops slices dices should be maintained.