kgg

Just go to your local hardware store and get a V belt. The link belts don't provide the same amount of belt surface contact area as a V belt. Looking at your photo and the video of the machine on the Jiang Long site this machines appears to be a needle feed machine where the outer presser foot just goes up and down like a ordinary drop feed while the needle and the inner presser foot moves back and forth. What are the model numbers of the comparable machine?? Without knowing more about the spec of your machine or what it is a clone of you maybe be at the machines limit, probably around 8 oz. kgg

Start with basics first. i) Are you using needles that came with the machine. If so throw them in the bucket as they are more then likely to be of poor quality. ii) I am going to assume the machine takes system 135 needles. Are you using a 135 x 16 which is needed for leather? iii) What size of needle are you using? You may have to move up to a #22 needle for V92 in thick / tough leather. Reference chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) iv) have you checked to make sure the feed dog is set correctly. The presser foot tension just needs enough downward pressure to move stuff along. To much doward pressure and it's like creating a jam point. The drive belt needs some slack otherwise it puts to much strain on the bearings in the machine and in the servo motor. I would remove the belt and turn it over by hand and see if can feel anything funny. Is this a needle feed machine? kgg

I would first determine what the running length of the dies you want to use are and from that you can determine the required tonnage that will be needed. kgg

Someone definitely Frankensteined that machine. The machines is a drop feed tailor machine made for fabric. This machine is not meant to sew leather. The .6mm thread that you normally use is equal to approximately V277 which will need a #25 ( 200 ) size needle which this machine will not take if you can find the correct 16x 257 needle system. If you want try and use the 134 or a 135 x 16 needle system the needle bar height will probably have to be adjusted and the needle to hook timing adjusted. You really need to install a new thread tension assembly and the other missing guide to get the thread tension and path correct so the machine to will sew properly. Here is a link to to a good needle size to thread size chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). Here is a copy of the parts manual and a correct tension assembly. kgg Singer 31K15, K17, K20, K22, K32, K45, K48.pdf

The leather and needle are lifting the presser foot like @Northmount has noted but also catching the thread as indicated by the loop being created at the needle. The 135x16 is the correct needle system for leather but what size of needle are you using? Here is a good chart for needle size verses thread size but in thick or tough material you should move up a needle size. If you are using a #20 needle go up to a #22 needle. The machines max needle size is a #22 and the max thread size is V92. I have owned a couple of Sailrite LSZ and clones and real life will show you with tough / dry / dyed leather you are at roughly the max sewing thickness that machine can handle. Also what I did find with those machines: i) is they can be really particular with the needle being installed as in that it almost has to be perfectly installed and any deviation especially in leather you can run into problems. ii) stitch length will vary as the sewing thickness increases. kgg

Thank you. Good price. kgg

Looks good. I would recommend flushing it with a lot oil to get rid debris from manufacturing and to make sure every surface that touches another is thoroughly lubed. What was the approximate cost with shipping / duty. kgg

A wheel foot will not work with a walking foot machine. What machine are you using? kgg

Maybe adding a speed reducer would help???? kgg

Here is a sketch of a simple platter. i) Thread 3/8" rod about 12 " long. ii) 3/8" Nuts. Need 3 of them. iii) Platter: Can be plastic or metal as long as it is big enough and sturdy enough to hold your bias tape. iv) 3/8" Bearing: Need one v) The mounted to the table I will leave up to you. kgg

When you make one have the flat plate spin on a bearing that way you will not be dragging the whole weight of the coil of binding tape and it will be easier to get consistent back tension. kgg

The Juki LS-1341 is a good machine made in Japan. The clones are made in China and Taiwan. The clones depreciate at more then the real deal Juki's and are more difficult to resell. For me the best time to sell one of my clones is around the 3 years old mark while the Juki's stay. Typically the clone LS-1341 are clones of the older Juki LS-341 and the clone LS-1341 with the knob on top are hybrid LS-341 while others also have casing changes and or internal part changes. It can be a bit of a task trying to decipher what some of the clones are clones of as they may have different model numbering labels. Example: Cowboy CB341, Cobra class 26 and Techsew 2750 similar to the Juki LS-341. The Juki LS-1342 has the knob on top and comes with a narrower nose rather the standard larger nose diameter of the Juki LS-1341. My take on: i) The main reason you see Juki's at the 50 percent depreciation mark is that they typically have come out of an industrial usage setting with some beaten to death and need an overhaul. If you can find a Juki LS-1341 or LS-1342 from a hobbyist expect to pay 70 to 80 percent the price of a new one. In Ontario, Canada you can get an ex-industrial used Juki LS-1341 for about $1000 USD ($1500 CAD). ii) Also the market for cylinder arm machines is a much smaller market then the flatbed market. iii) Price of used machines in general will also depend on the available supply, demand and economy in local / state / province. iv) Buyers have a magic number in their head for purchasing a new or used machine. I think for a used machine the upper number is $2000 then it is just as well to buy a new clone from a reputable dealer for the extra dollars. It is easy enough to know the difference just by looking at it or photo's. kgg

i) The binder you are using is not positioned properly from front to back and twisted. To me it seems as though it was made to be used with a particular type of binding tape with a specific presser foot setup. ii) The binder has no front to back adjustment. iii) The make shift arrangement of how you are mounting the coil of bias tape is never going to give you consistent and acceptable results. Suggestions: i) Purchase a proper bias tape platter. I prefer a platter that holds the bias tape horizontally over one that hold the bias tape a vertically. ii) Since you are close to the Sailrite store purchase a Sailrite inline binder for 1" binding tape if that is the size you want ( https://www.sailrite.com/Binder-1-Swing-Bracket ) with a swing away attachment. I have a couple of the Sailrite binders that came with a Sailrite machine that I picked up awhile ago and they are decent quality but expensive at $72 USD. As a price comparison you can get a pretty good CKPSMS branded one off Amazon.com for $20 with a swing away attachment ( https://www.amazon.com/CKPSMS-Adjustable-Single-A4B-Machines/dp/B0BH8MG3SR?crid=1AQ7CPZYU45IC&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Vk4OlxqvhPRNsqsK4L5btm_oB3ToI8b9AUN-BxlpKNlq-4hV3Nd9ALOdzkLEDyln43jzKhLQ8ptVTstf5lcUSkSDGJkKjWxkZ1dTnVWiZnJr_CL_STfYpLxqowFJTLTtsoLsEU7Z4dj1HHfBFB7_BkINB_wnW9KhwsLChDL4ztsiJ0gJ0DOSanI4teK5lKTby1K1j4p7pqcWcje5uMH6tezCKaPNUYSRAzGcXvdyJmqci88YI0BzhJg5ZccBWEO1CHeBx4skmcN8RqYHbrM8aROf51xjDe5iO33-i_OiwSR2ljvhBvF7aou_4pcrLA2bpxNM0QqPbIRuaogpBAq7uz2mZ32xKTXbk2wGBuUpnf7phIKBiXYs_XPiYeMrZWOXYUREyAaMCYoa7pFkZ3yDaZyAz4lXRIQi2esyfFAH9YBydEv1HVwDXc5pOuqpe1Xd.1ZGLcvgIyXGofpY6xddiETTz6CkoSkul-8DmIUohh9U&dib_tag=se&keywords=CKPSMS+Brand+-+1SET+Swing+Away+single+Fold+Binder+Attachment&qid=1739146362&sprefix=ckpsms+brand+-+1set+swing+away+single+fold+binder+attachment+%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-4 ) If I am not mistaken Sailrite binders only come in single fold so you would have to purchase binding tape already folded over or use raw edge binding tape in the size for the binder you buy. How tight are you planning on doing? With a inline binder I can usually get about a 2 1/2" diameter turn and if I am careful about 2" diameter. all lot depends on the thickness of the binding tape and material. kgg

Here is a good manual ( http://www.consew.com/files/112347/InstructionManuals/205RB-1.pdf ). I would first get the needle to hook set correctly first, Section 21 page 10 then move on to the feed dog and presser foot. kgg

I would recommend going up to a #24 or maybe a #25. Here is a good cross reference chart for needle size to thread size. ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). What maybe happening i) needle eye to small for proper fitting of thread ii) depending on the thickness and toughness of the leather the hole being punched in the leather isn't large enough to allow for the top and bottom V207 thread and it is being caught / jammed into a too small a space. kgg

Here is some info. A lot is going to depend on the bore of the needle bar. What machine are they for? kgg

What size of thread with what size needle and how thick of leather? kgg

A very nice machine. The clones of the Juki differ from the original but this fairly easy, simple change and you really don't need extra parts except for the chain and foot pedal. What part of Canada are you in?? Procedure: 1. Remove knee pad and connector from front of the knee shaft extending out from the machine. 2. Unlock and tilt the machine back 3. Loosen the connector for the knee lift horizontal shaft inside 4. Slide knee lift horizontal shaft out the back of the machine and re-tighten connector. 5. Install knee lift rod, install chain from the end of the lifting connector down to the pedal. 6. Job done Here is a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwvWsuxPAD0 at 4:06 is what the horizontal shaft should look like at 16:29 to 16:58 installation of foot pedal kgg

That's about $920 USD and new at 22000 Rand it would be about $1200. The ORYX OR341 is another clone of what appears to be a Juki LS-341. kgg

There is a video of the Alder 30-70 video. Note the audio is in German. kgg

I use inline/straight binders single fold and double fold from 1/4" to 3 1/2" on all my machines whether they are flatbed or cylinder arm. The main advantage of a 90 degree binder is that it should be able to do tighter corners then a inline/ straight. The disadvantages of the 90 degree binders are i) they cost a lot more then your inline/ straight. ii) you can't on most adjust the tension on the tape at binder itself. The main problem I think you are having is poor back tension on your tape and the path the binding tape travels through the binder is to wide so you are getting tape slop. Are you using your binding tape with a vertical or horizontal platter or just letting it drape to the floor?? Any photo's of your binding setup???

Did you get in contact with Techsew and how did it work out? kgg

My experience is that you can not burnish chrome tan. I use a soldering iron after lubing the edge. kgg

Very nicely done and a great use for those old circular saw blades. What did you use to cut out the shape of the old saw blade? kgg

A couple of questions: i) What size of thread are you using? ii) What size of needle are you using? iii) how thick of material are you trying to sew? iv) Does it happen on straight runs or when doing curves? kgg